Greydog

Morning Lee A pleasure good to know you have it sorted Camber is only half the story toe has much more effect on accelerated wear. Good to know that you have been able to sort it. Often as the suspension bushes wear (about 80000 to 100000 km) seems to be service life adjustment will suffer. Wheel size will have an effect on ride but not wear as the smaller rim size will have a deeper side wall (which has a spring effect) Most wheels are chosen for the cosmetics than practicality. Dave

Hi Ian Sorry I am a bit in the dark with the way BMW control their Diesel engines as I have never owned one. My diesel experience is limited to the kids they all drive diesel but none are BMW. Have you checked www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin number in the search box it will bring up your model then search for what you need you can also search by part number. There are small exploded drawings that may help. Also look at www.newtis.info a BMW technical information site there must be a description somewhere of how it is meant to work. From memory the turbo actuators are also vacuum controlled could there be a link? Dave

Welcome Liam First as you are buying from a dealer you will have some protection under the sale of goods act, when I looked at the pictures it looks as though a very clumsy person has topped up the oil and missed?? Easily cleaned, as far as service is concerned check the service book and even call your local BMW dealer if you are uncertain they will have its history online. At 37k it probably only has 1 or 2 services including its PDI my personal preference is to have service at schedule with interim oil changes Enjoy your new car Dave

Morning Rod This is a new one on me, seat belts these days tend to be boringly reliable and normally fray not stick, particularly as you have a new OEM part fitted. From memory the inertia reel is bolted to the B pillar base the belt runs up the B pillar through a guide about halfway up then to the height adjuster mechanism then down to it's fixing point on the seat. I would take off the B pillar trim and check its route is clear and that it has been put in correctly. Have a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits in the search box it will bring up your model check the small drawing for how it's fitted (or should be). I can only think that something is picking up either at the guide or the adjuster as the inertia reel units are pretty much sealed Hope this helps Dave

Morning Lee Your 5 series has adjustable rear suspension you adjust camber and toe, by turning eccentric bolts I wouldn't recommend playing yourself it is best done by someone with a Hunter 4 wheel alignment system or similar. Before spending your hard earned on an alignment session I would check the lower ball joints from my experience with the X5's (same set up) these bushes are good for about 80k or so.If you have air suspension at the rear it has to be deflated or you won't find any slack. Changing them is a DIY proposition in fact I brought a complete suspension kit from e bay and spent a weekend refurbishing the rear end, then the alignment session to set it up. Have look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin number in the search box it will bring up your model the look at the rear axle section. Also check www.pelicanparts.com for how too's If you don't fancy the DIY route a good Independent Garage should be capable of doing the work in a morning. Good Luck Dave

Welcome to the Forum Stephen Looks in great condition what killed it Mechanical or Tin worm? So what is next? Dave

I love my daughter but even with sensors and a camera !!! She proved her theory several times 😄 Dave

Morning Umar As my daughter says you don't need them there is a thud sound when your to close ?? All the rear sensors can be accessed behind the bumper the center two from the pop out cover for the tow bar. The fronts pre-face lift all pop out from the front but I believe facelift models it is bumper off / Have a look at www.pelicanparts.com they have some brilliant how too's with pictures, also try www.newtis.info this is a BMW technical information site with how too's Hope this helps Dave

Welcome Micheal Looking good ENJOY (all we need is some summer now) Dave

Looks good to me as is !! but then I am an old bloke who would probably need a set of lowering springs and a chiropractor after riding around in it

Hi Kelly and Welcome to the Forum Some Pictures would be good Dave

Your Welcome My brother inlaw went with those guys because they supplied the upgrade with the code plus he said very helpful with advice

Hi Shane and Welcome to the Forum First remember that even a Nav Disc or Software with a 2019 release date is about a year out of date at least due to checking, validating and production. You may be disappointed that there is no difference (noticeable anyway) between the copy you have and the new one. That said I am assuming that as your car is 2011 you need the update and FSC code? I have no experience of this ( my old beast has a DVD based system) other than my brother inlaw has a 535 of similar vintage to yours. He brought an upgrade from www.satnavupgrades.co.uk he did the upgrade himself and it took him about 30 mins, he was more interested in the update for the European information as he works in Holland. I have no other experience of the company but he is pleased and has had no issues worth talking to them I would think. Good Luck Dave

Morning John From your description we are talking about the the ABS sensor and reluctor ring? When you say you cleaned the ring was it badly corroded? If to much surface came away while cleaning it could give an un-even air gap? Also is the new sensor seated properly and torqued to 8 n/m? I have also read that the ABS unit can throw these faults Sorry no solution but my thoughts Dave Check www.newtis.info there may be something for your model there as it is the same technical information used by BMW Dealers

Castrol Edge will be fine 4k changes should keep everything clean and slick

Evening Zennon Special BMW approval for fully synthetic long-life oil. Viscosities are SAE 0W-30, 0W-40, 5W-30 and 5W-40. Usually required for BMWs equipped with a diesel particulate filter (DPF). ... This specification requires a low SAPS, usually ACEA C5 compliant, 0W20 oil. As long as they meet LL04 as a minimum The real trick I am told is interim oil changes leaving changes until the service indicator triggers is not good for these engines Dave

Hi Ian Experience from one of our sons Toyota a really gummed up EGR often still is gummed up even after Terraclean treatment, we took his off and found a surprising amount of crud still in there which needed literally chiseling out and then soaking in petrol then scraping a few hours work and we had the valve operating when a vacuum was applied. Reassembled everything and warmed it up then of he went for test drive he gave it a blast on the dual carriageway when he came back he had a big grin and said it was going well but the cloud of black smoke it blew out when he floored it looked like a "Harry Potter" special effect. Dave

Sounds as though the air flaps on the drivers side are stuck (just a guess here) have a look at www.newtis.info look for your model and check the relevant section for repair information Hope this helps Good luck Dave

Morning James I am not aware of a solenoid on the shifter there is an interlock cable but the shift/selector mechanism is divorced from the gearbox. Have a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin in the search box it will bring up your model then look at the relevant sections. This is a BMW online parts list so you can make sure you have the correct part for your car. Also look at www.newtis.info this one is a BMW technical information site the same information as BMW Dealers use how too's repair information etc. The solenoids are are normally in the mechatronic control unit inside the gearbox. ZF advise service intervals of 50 to 80k Km. BMW in their wisdom say "sealed for life" (for life read end of BMW warranty) so depending on how many miles your car has done it really does need a change. if not on miles on age. I assume there were no bad changes or slipping in gears if not then a fluid and filter change may be all you need, however a fluid change cant fix damaged units. A ZF agent or specialist will be able to test the operation of all solenoids and give better advise I would look for a good autobox specialist preferably ZF experienced or agent. Dave

I love free fixes

Hi Ian The first codes are glow plug related (I would think you have at least 2 glow plugs down) the next 3 are I would think EGR valve related (if my translation is correct so it could be a problem with your toaster??) Last one I remember reading about a recall or technical bulletin to do with this (I don't have a diesel so ) Depending on how many miles your beasty has covered your glow plugs (pre-heating system) could well be past it's best, if it has just been teracleaned I would hope the EGR valve is clean? Or has an EGR delete blanking plate been fitted? First step I would take is reset all the fault codes then run the engine and see what if anything returns, then deal with that. If mileage is high I would consider changing the glow plugs and the glow plug controller plus clean the EGR valve and make sure it is operating correctly. Check www.newtis.info for service information and how too's I hope this helps Dave

Morning Johnny Didn't you know the initials BMW stand for Break My Wallet Buying a reader is not just a good step, it's essential. There are many generic readers which will give generic codes but they will not be able to read specific modules on the BMW bus system so tracking faults is harder. So will need a reader with software that is BMW specific or enabled. Foxpro or Autologic but these are professional standard and carry the price tag. If you have a laptop I would look at BMW 1.4.0 (take a look on line) it is about £15 and once loaded you can read individual control modules (there are 3 pages though not all are applicable to your model) The other I would consider is INPA very comprehensive though I found it a pain to load plus the diagnostics are in German so a bit of translation could be required. That said it is very good I just prefer 1.4.0 as it gives the same information but in English. Both may program's are 10+ years old so current versions are quite probably more user friendly. Where are you in the UK you may be near a member who has a Code reader? I am in Sussex Dave

Morning Steve The tilt on reverse function is controlled from the mirror/window control panel on the drivers door. I would guess you have sat in the drivers seat and adjusted the mirrors and seat? When adjusting the mirrors you have left the selector switch set to the drivers door mirror side, slide it back to the passenger side and it should tilt on reverse again. Dave

Morning Steve Welcome to the Forum enjoy your new (to you) car, with some TLC it will give you many years of service. Good maintenance is the key whether DIY or at a Garage, plenty of help and knowledge here if needed ENJOY Dave

Morning Zennon Get the codes read your issue could be spark plugs or an air leak and a load of things in between. Find a good independent garage or BMW specialist and get then to run a diagnostic check. It will save money in the long run. Dave