Greydog

Morning Neal A Bilstien variant ? Is the tank the same as the one in the drawing and is the part number 17137542986 or different ? Have you had the codes read and reset? which may clear it other wise I would still suspect the level sensor even brand new stuff can have a fault. if you still have the old tank try swapping the level sensor. Dave

Yesterday I needed to go down to Chichester forgetting it was the first day of the festival, so many 200mph £200k supercars sitting in queues crazy.

OK Neal Was the replacement "shiny new" or used if it was used maybe the level switch has a fault. It's item 2 at the bottom of the drawing realoem gives the part number below. 17137553919

Afternoon Neal When you changed the expansion tank did you move the level switch over from your old tank or did the new/replacement have one fitted?? I take it when you say level indicator you mean the rising flag under the main filler cap? That is just an "idiot" guide to help people know when it is full/empty by giving a visual reference The actual level switch is in the bottom of the tank with a small electrical plug, try unplugging it and replugging it in case there was some dirt on a connection. Dave

Morning Richard One of our son's ran a 1 series 3 door 118, he hammered it up and down to Warrington for a couple of years with work from memory it had around 160k on the clock when he sold it to a friend he plays football with who is still driving it, Lord knows how many miles it's done now but it still looks good. Having a Dad with OCD about cars it was well maintained while our son had it and I think now it just gets an annual service. So they can be as tough as an old boot. Good luck with the search

Fortunately for me my X5 doesn't have a Sun roof let alone a soft top so I suffer air conditioned driving and top less sun shine in a deck chair 😄 I did find this awhile ago for someone else though I hope it helpsE36 Convertible Adjust.pdfE36 Get a good diagnostic package it will save a fortune in the long run I use BMW 1.4.0 very cheap from ebay but you will need a laptop to put it on, others use Carly (subscription based) INPA etc. White smoke check the exhaust gas re circulation system as well as the stuff Phil advised Fingers crossed for sunny weather so you can fix it plus hope its a simple fix Dave

The Front and rear differentials will cope with a variation new and worn across that axle as long as tyre sizes are correct and preferably from the same manufacture the transfer case on the back of the gearbox though is another story. The transfer case is not a differential it is a chain driven system to get drive from the back of the gearbox to the front differential some (like yours) have a motor driven gearset to adjust torque between front and rear. My older version is fixed (roughly 60/40 split) both systems will suffer badly if front and rear tyres are badly mismatched, there is a guy up in Rotherham who has built a business repairing them. Have a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your vin into the search box, it will bring up your model it is a BMW online parts list but also has exploded drawings which will help. Also look at www.newtis.info it is a BMW technical information site used by Dealers you should find help there on cleaning the EGR system

Morning Martin I take it that the passenger door is still OK? (or are you still in the car???) X5's suffered from a door lock issue caused by water ingress that dribbled down onto the actual mechanism on the door jamb. As corrosion buids up it sticks and eventually jams. With the X5 you can take off the door panel with the door closed just a few plastic clips at risk, then when it is out of the way carefully peel back the vapour barrier (I use a heat gun to help soften the black sealer). On the X5 the door lock is visible but not reachable by hand so I sprayed it with penetrating oil then left it to soak. While it was soaking I straightened a wire coat hanger and bent one end about 20mm at 90 deg. I lowered the window and fed it down inside the door while peering inside with torch I could pull up and push down on the operating arm until it freed up and the door could be opened. after freeing it up remember penetrating fluid and WD40 will evaporate so I brought a can of spray grease (chain lube) and smothered the lock while working it up and down Then re-assembled it all and (touches wood) 5 years on no re-occurrence. I undid the drivers seat and tipped it back to give more room you may have more of a faf as you don't rear doors. Check www.realoem.com for information and www.newtis.info for how too's. Good luck Dave

Just the 5 at the moment though we do get "lodgers" and "day care" with the kids dogs so sometimes 7+ This is my current happy band

Morning Will Ouch ! I had similar a few years back I got a replacement pair from Quarry Motors they are specialist BMW Dismantlers and they brought the good one. They were very helpful they are in Sheffield, if they can't help there are several other specialists around Dave

Cleaned it then filled it up with dogs and went up into the Forest for a nice long walk with them

Or is it the perm !!!

Hi Ian Bmw have for years fitted either "square" wheels sets ie: same rim size all round and a "staggered" set up wider rear rims narrower fronts which started with the "M" cars. X3's were offered with both set ups. The rim size is stamped on the inside of each wheel your hand book should give wheel/tyre sizes and inflation information. As an example my X5 runs 20" rims running 275x40 front and 315x35 rear most of the "advantages" are cosmetic however it is essential that when replacing tyres the front and rear rolling radius is within a few mm if not damage to the transfer case is almost certain. BMW have agreements with "approved" manufacturers who produce star* rated tyres to ensure that when staggered set up is used the tyres are within tolerance. Non rated tyres can be used but you should take care that they match as closely as possible. First signs of transfer case damage will be jerking when on full lock particularly when reversing. I had this I put a chalk mark on the front tyre where it met the road same on the rear then got my son to roll the car forward one revolution while I watched there was 20mm difference in distance front and rear, may not seem much but when you multiply that by a few thousand revolutions the reason the transfer case gears get screwed up is clear.A square set up is more forgiving particularly if the tyres are all from the same manufacturer. All 4x4's have the same issues regardless of the Manufacturer needing correct tyres that match front and rear, if your current tyres are mismatched across axles or front to rear it will end in tear for your wallet. Normally tyre size if they are correctly inflated will have little effect on performance, your engine should feel quite lively as it is a diesel clogged EGR valves are common which strangle performance Dave

Welcome Gemma Pictures paint a thousand words !! Dave

The code is a Generic OBD code which can often identify the symptom but not necessarily the cause.You really need a BMW Diagnostic tool that can narrow down the search. What general condition is your engine, was it running well smoothly before? What mileage has it covered? As you have swapped sensors and the issue remains have you checked the Vanos solenoid on that camshaft? It's job is to advance and !Removed! the cam if the cam is out of position that could be your culprit. A missing tooth while not impossible I would doubt,.have you done any other work that may have triggered the fault code My starting position would be fix the other issues leaks, cooling etc then either by a BMW specific diagnostic tool (Carly, BMW 1.4.0, INPA, etc) or find a good Independent that has them. Without it you could throw a lot of money at the problem in parts and labour in the hope of fixing it. Dave

Morning Robert My engineers logic says yes, as the mechanism will be an assembly of parts from several suppliers, how ever if the assembly has been constructed using crimped joints and pipe unions it may be more complicated and costly than a replacement. Is there enough room to fit a joining piece in the pipe? if there is that may be the answer is there a way to replace any lost fluid? I would check www.realoem.com its an online BMW parts list put the last 7 digits of your Vin in the search box it will bring up your model, in the parts lists there are exploded drawings which will help. Also have a look at www.newtis.info this is the same technical information that BMW Dealers use. There are hydraulic specialists who repair plant on site such as Pirtec but what the cost would be and whether it would be economical, like the old radio programme "sorry I haven't a clue" Hope this is some help. Dave

Assuming Trevor isn't right about misfuelling I have 3 thoughts 1st have you checked the MAF try unplugging it, 2nd possibility is the throttle body when they fail they give similar symptoms the fault will read something like "throttle position sensor", 3rd turbo issues sticking actuator or split pipe somewhere. I did read some years ago that there is a seal between the boost pipe and the turbo which can be dislodged which causes power loss? I would go back carefully over the work done in case something is dislodged or loose. When you cleaned the MAF what with as they can be easily damaged. Hope this helps Dave

Hi Ian Welcome to the Forum All Manufacturers all like to put up a Myth that their cars are only serviceable by themselves and that only spares from their stores are going to fit and work !! Don't forget they brought those parts from someone? The X3 mechanically is quite simple the clever part is in the electronics. However it doesn't make them difficult to work on they just require a good diagnostic tool and a little more thought when fixing issues. There is a tremendous amount of knowledge and skill available through the Forum and other sources. Diagnostics: I use BMW 1.4.0 which is loaded onto an old laptop along with other diagnostic software which I keep in the garage just for the cars (current stable are Subaru Outback, Toyota Avensis and my BMW X5) other folks use Carly for BMW, INPA,Autologic and others we pay our maoney and make our choice. It is important to have a BMW diagnostic as it can interrogate each control module for an issue rather than just getting a general code. BMW 1.4.0 explains the issue in English and the program is available for a few pounds so not a wallet buster I also use a BMW parts web site and BMW technical site both free which provides the same information as the Dealers use. The X3 mechanically has a front diff a centre transfer case at the back of the gearbox and a rear diff as long as the engine gearbox and the rest of the drive train are serviced regularly they are pretty tough. Suspension is conventional with rubber bushes needing service/replacing as and when. Tyres on 4x4 cars are critical as the rolling radius across axels and front to rear have to be within tolerance to avoid destroying the transfer case.there are to many 4x4 of all makes which are sold on with damaged transfer cases through having mismatched tyres fitted. The early small N43 diesels have some well documented issues but later N47 engines are much better, the six cylinder petrol and diesels are pretty much bomb proof. So bit long winded but don't be scared off thinking they are complicated they actually self diagnose a lot of issues, remember computers are binary and work in a logical fashion, if we also use simple logic they are not much different to a series 1 or 2 Land Rover just a hell of a lot more refined and fun to drive. Dave

You are welcome Jim, don't be a stranger Dave

There was a sadly fatal accident here in the UK a few years back stationary traffic a truck driver was changing music on his phone and he "didn't see" the standing traffic.One of the first things the police here do now is check phone history for the period just before the accident, apparently a text. Facebook etc are the most common distractions. While it's illegal to use your phone for a call without hands free, having it in a mount and checking Text and Facebook people seem to think is OK. My fellow humans scare me sometimes. Fingers crossed for your daughters speedy and complete recovery kid's are resilient. I think the bags are "head on" or "side impact" (no need for a test) as you discovered pretensioners work every which way. Hers to a speedy recovery for all of you Dave

WOW, Eric that is a really solid hit glad to hear that you and the family are OK That must have hurt a few days later I bet, when the bruises start to come out!! Dozey so and so I hope he was well insured Dave

Morning Martin and Welcome to the Forum See my reply to your questions in your other post, one thing conventional tyres will give you is a much better and wider choice of tyres. Dave

Morning Martin You can run conventional tyres on the rims you have without issue not sure about them giving your rims any protection from pot holes though!! some of them around here will cripple a JCB!! 1. As your car is rear wheel drive you can run run flats on one axle and conventional on the other. Cars with X drive are very sensitive to variation in rolling radius front to rear which can cause serious problems for the transfer case. 2. I wouldnt bother with the spare I carry a couple of cans of tyre goo and a small compressor (tempt fate time) and seriously can't remember the last time I had a puncture. 3.My X5 runs 255 fronts and 315 rears so as above no spare but if you read your handbook it will show what size was originally recommended 4. See 2 above the spray inflators dont give correct tyre pressue so the small compressor is required in my opinion. Convertable 3 series very nice, Good Luck Dave

Hi Richard There are some well documented issues with the early cars with N43 engines so look for one that has the N47 engine which is reputed to be better. M-sport spec is the one to go for it has most of the bells and whistles. Good luck with the hunt Dave

Morning Scooby Welcome to the Forum Good luck with your project, there a few websites that will help www.realoem.com this is a BMW online Parts List it is the same as Dealers use. It has small exploded drawings which help with location and how things fit plus of course the important Part Number so that you know you have the right part. Just put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box and away you go. Then there is www.newtis.info This is a BMW Technical Information site again the same as BMW Dealers use lots of information and how too's. Finally www.pelicanparts.com This is an American site and there will be little on diesels (the Yanks still think it's for big trucks only) but they have excellent how too's with pictures very useful. For Diagnostic tools I use BMW 1.4.0 loaded onto an old dedicated laptop running Windows 7 others use INPA or Carly for BMW or one of the many others now available. You will need a diagnostic tool to read the specific BMW faults Generic readers dont access all components and will give general fault codes which some times are difficult to interpret. Good Luck Dave