Greydog

Morning Sam If your sensors are OK and there is no change with your new sensor fitted, there could be a fault in the loom or the ABS unit could be faulty. I would be looking towards the ABS unit, there are several repairers BBA Reman, ECU Testing, Autotronics, ATPelectronics to name a few. I have used BBA and Ecu in the past with 100% success both businesses offered an exchange unit 24hr turn around. I hope you get to the bottom of the issue Dave

Hi Warren I would expect that connector blocks/plugs will be the same it's their position that might vary, even if they don't match as you have access to the donor car wire cutters and a soldering iron may solve the snag. Check the DME part numbers are interchangable in case the engine management function was different (fueling etc) your smart phone is your friend take lots of pictures so you can compare one to the other. Pictures are great when putting stuff back as well, they may even help someone else in your position. www.realoem.com will give you part number information put the last 7 digits of your Vin in the search box and you will have access to all parts for your car. You can manually search the donor if you don't have the Vin. www.newtis.info is a BMW technical information site the same information as used by BMW Dealers that will help with how too's, torque settings etc. Fingers crossed it all goes smoothly Dave

Welcome to the Forum Warren Sorry to hear of your problem I am not a diesel driver so have little experience. As for swapping engines like for like no issue. Other units within the range? while the engine architecture (block, head etc) will be the same or very similar across the N47 range I would do a lot more research to find out if (a) someone else has done it, if so what were the pitfalls they encountered. (b) If possible I would get a different engine complete with all ancillary's and controls units. For example the DME failed on my X5 it required changes to a new DME, Body Control Unit, Ignition Barrel, Drivers Door lock and of course keys. So a like for like swap may be an easier route. Good Luck, let us know how it goes Dave

Morning David Welcome to the Forum BMW recommend only * rated tyres to avoid possible damage to the drive train, in particular the transfer box. So your budget will dictate. If you can, stick with a premium brand * rated tyre. Your car has the same size front and rear which will make the choice wider, those with a staggered set up (wider rear wheels) have to take more care in selection as differences in rolling radius front to rear cause the transmission problems. Enjoy your X Dave

Morning Mike Have a look at www.newtis.info a BMW technical information site as used by Dealers you should find what you need there Dave

Morning Jack I would look at the cable feed from the body to the tailgate continual flexing can cause breaks to occur certainly checking out all the connections with a multimeter. I would check out www.realoem.com it's an online BMW parts list put the last 7 digits of your car in the search box and it will bring up your model. Search the section with the rear wiper and you will find diagrams and part numbers useful if you have to buy a part (second hand or new) Also take a look at www.newtis.info a BMW technical information site as used by BMW Dealers, great for how too's. Finally I use BMW 1.4.0 software on an old Laptop (£9 from ebay) it reads codes and gives a description of the fault in English as an example I have a PDC fault with parking sensors front and rear the laptop tells me rear inner right sensor is the one. Just have to wait for the weather to improve to change it. Central locking could be the battery in the key is dead, or it could be the diversity antenna above the rear window it could even be related to your wiper issue Good luck with the fault finding Dave

I had a rattle in the door of the X5 in the end I took off the door card and discovered the loom to the window switches wasn't clipped in. Don;t know if someone had been in there before and hadn't clipped it back, that was the cure for me and best of all free. Dave

The key may be charged Ian but if you have changed the battery in the key fob (following your post above) the car will think it is a new key, so it will need reprogramming to the car. The sequence is shown in several You tube video's worth a try first as it's free a new key will be around £110 or so (mine was 4 years ago). Good Luck Dave

Morning Ian If you have replaced the battery then the key will need deprogramming to the car, there are lots of "how too's" just google it and read up. If that fails it could mean a new key from BMW. Good Luck Dave

The fuel filter is another one, it's hidden under neath a cover plate near the rear wheel they often are ignored but can cause issues with both petrol and diesel motors. The dealer will tell you the filter was checked and cleaned at service?? Now you have seen the evidence yourself.Check out the EGR valve as well if there is soot about that will probably be blocked partially if not fully and that can cause a lack of power. Dave

Morning Andrew Welcome to the Forum Have you talked to the Dealer get the correct part number then search online for the best deal Dave

Morning John and Welcome ??????? Never heard or read anything like this before, baffled. I thought drag cars were the only ones with lockable front brakes to heat the rear tyres? Be interesting to know what they come back with Dave

Morning Simon I have read that the rubber seals on the hard pipe connections can start to degrade/crack. I would check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box and it will bring up the parts lists for your car. Check the engine section for diagrams of the ducting and seals then work your way through them looking for the failure points. www.newtis.info will help with descriptions and how too's. Wing mirror motors are a common failure you only need one to fail and it has a canceling effect on the other. Simple enough to fix and lots of repair stuff motors and gear kits on that well known auction site. Dismantling the mirror housing is fiddly (worth investing in trim removal tools) start at the bottom and take care and don't rush. Once the outer covers are off it's straight forward, my drivers mirror had failed but I changed both motors while I was at it. Good Luck Dave

Morning Ian Could be soft battery in the key which should recharge when in the ignition, the diversity antenna is a known issue but mainly on 5 series could be worth investigating though. Check www.realoem.com to get the right part number for your car. Dave

Morning Your engine is N57 which if memory serves has a lower timing chain and two upper chains that drive the cam shafts. Changing them and their associated guides and tension devices is major surgery. So would not be a normal service item. Having said that the BMW 3.0d is recognised as one of the worlds great engines and generally is as tough as old boots. However like all mechanical devices even with correct maintenance some times things break but normally if looked after these engines are capable of achieving massive mileages. My brother inlaw has a 535 touring which he uses for regular commutes into Northern Europe 317000 kilometers and no issues so far other than failing diversity antenna's. Dave

Morning Mick Sounds as though you have a Diversity antenna failure, check out www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your vin number in the search box it will bring up your cars parts list, search the Audio section for your system. www.newtis.info will help with where stuff is, how to check it and change it if needed. Some good reading for your school day!! I would start with the diversity antenna make sure it is working my brother in law has had 2 failures with his 5 series moisture is the problem. Dave

Hi Ian X5's love "bonging you" checks your heart rate and how fat your wallrt is feeling. Lights self check (along with a lot of other stuff) when you turn on the ignition, the rear light cluster's can suffer from corrosion the low voltage used in the self test looses continuity so thinks there is a lamp failure. I would check and clean the lamp holders in the rear swap lamps around see how it goes. Good can of contact cleaner and some wet and dry then a dab of Vaseline has worked for me. Dave

Morning Gav What sketch, where? Two types of Nav system were fitted Business and Professional, if you have a screen up front it will be Professional. Both systems came as CD or DVD, at 2003 your car is on the change over, the Navigation computer in the left cubby needs either a CD or DVD (not interchangable) if your Nav computer has DVD on the front then you need the Professional High DVD. If the computer does not have DVD on the front then you will need the corresponding CD maps. Do you have a Nav computer? Are the lights on on the Nav computer? Can you eject the disc to see what it is

Morning Carol Welcome to the forum. I am the same age group as your Dad, remember we can't stop getting older but who said we have to grow up?? A loss of power can be many things apart from the DPF, blocked fuel filter, failing fuel pump, throttle body fault, leaky or faulty injectors the list is long. I don't drive a diesel but have son's and a daughter who do, what I have learned is the DPF (diesel particulate filter) is pretty much indestructible. Yes they clog especially when used for short journeys but there is a regeneration program built in which can be triggered by a good knowledgeable garage with the correct software. The regen programs can also be triggered by driving the car, a good blast in 3rd gear to keep engine revs at about 3k (sons Toyota pickup) this cleans the DPF you can also get them chemically cleaned talk to a diesel specialist. I would check that the specialist he has talked to has actually read the codes? A blocked DPF will certainly trigger lights and engine codes plus they can't be reset if there are other associated faults such as EGR (exhaust gas re-circulation) blocked, injector or glow plug faults. I would be talking to a different garage, check out your area for a good diesel specialist or Landrover specialist (same engine in the Range Rover) also google DPF regen and read up. Good Luck Dave

Ouch!! Thought the dreaded "Friday afternoon car" disappeared years ago but it sounds as though you have one there. Good Luck with whatever you change to Dave

Welcome Kay Great choice of car ENJOY Dave

Hi Darren Sounds high but I do know BMW quote about a litre/1000 miles for the N43 engine. I also read somewhere that they used 0-40 or 5-40 oil in some engines to cut consumption. First did you buy it from Listers? is it covered by the BMW AUC (Approved Used Car) scheme if so you should have at least 12 months comprehensive warranty, if so put pressure on. You can also use any BMW Dealer not just Listers like all things in life some are better than others. If you do have the warranty it may be worth extending it for 12 months to protect your wallet if something is amiss. Good Luck hope this helps Dave

Morning Martin Leaks can be frustrating and difficult to find, I had a windscreen replaced and it leaked result wet drivers carpet eventually found it using water with a dye in it and had to have it refitted. Around the drivers door I used talcum powder around the door seal and the door membrane so any water would leave a run mark, nothing found that left just the windscreen. Have you checked the rear side window seals in the luggage area it will be a pain stripping the trim away puff some talc around the seal then hose the outside? From reading your posts that is about all that is left, finger crossed for you. Dave

So a sniff test has been done and was negative, that should indicate that the cooling system is not being pressurized by a leaking head gasket. If there is no sign of water in the oil or oil in the water again that indicates that there is no leak from the cooling system into the oil, so far so good. Modern water pumps (not just BMW) have a design life, normally around 75000 miles once they start to fail the knock on effect can make it difficult to diagnose. I have seen a water pump that looked perfect (sons Toyota) but under pressure the impeller stalled causing overheating particularly under load, no oil in the water no water in the oil? The Toyota Dealer said new engine??? He used the truck for a few months as his work was local and all he needed to do was top up the water a couple of times a week. When the weather improved we decided to have a look, getting to the water pump was a a real challenge but once we got it off the problem was obvious it was cheaply made with the impeller (plastic) pressed onto the shaft, but it could be moved by hand. A new one sourced from ECP with gaskets and coolant came to about £100 from memory. The Toyota Dealer said they had never known a water pump fail like that ?? Their 2.2 diesel had a known head issues and they were changing engines under extended warranty, didn't cover my sons so they wanted £2k+ I dont think they looked just quoted new engine??? Sons pick up has now performed faultlessly for the last 3 years (touch wood) interestingly the ECP water pump had a metal impeller held by a lock nut. If the system has an airlock and the water pump is not performing properly you will have little chance of successfully bleeding it due to the airlock stalling the pump. If you are going in to change thermostats I would check the water pump. Good Luck.

Hi Gav Check www.newtis.info it is a BMW technical information site which is used by BMW dealerships for "how too's" certainly when rebuilding the V8's tools and procedures are needed for locking the cams and for timing the Vanos. I would assume the straight 6 is the same but I have never rebuilt the diesel so newtis would be my first port of call. The rest is straight forward just remember the head bolts are stretch bolts and should be replaced, pretty standard on modern engines though not cheap (voice of experience after rebuilding my 4.6 V8). The other thing to remember is the system can sometimes be difficult to bleed all the air out of, could explain your hot/cold and the impression of a geyser.