Greydog

X5's are good at beep's Beep, lights on Beep, seat belt Beep, door open Beep cold out side (I noticed that when I scraped the ice off) but not heard 3 could be something in the LPG control unit when was it serviced last? Or it could be a safety check on your heart rate or a wallet test !!

Hi Andy Airbags are quite a well known issue not a difficult job to change be careful of the ride height sensor. The airbags are plentiful and not to expensive, BMW are known to change a single airbag as they do perish and crack if it were me I would change both to be sure. I brush mine with soapy water couple of times a year and look for bubbles (mine is rear only) Not sure about the seat options with the 4.8 but with mine there are a series of check boxes which I checked and could set the key memory plus speed that anti hi jack locks the doors whether all doors or just the drivers door opens on the first press of the fob second press all doors beep or flash on unlock. are just some of the things from memory but I dont recall a seat setting to move the seat back sorry, though yours is the more modern version, who knows. Good Luck Dave

Morning Andy Oh well worth a try just in case it had been enabled and not used. I would check out that well known auction site for a BMW DIS lead probably about £20. All the manufacturers are the same !! charge an hour minimum + for something that is essentially a tick box operation to enable/disable a function. It's worse when you consider they often have the car plugged in for service anyway. If you get stuck I have an INPA lead somewhere in the garage Regards Dave

Afternoon Andy You could try setting up everything for you on one key saving it in the seat memory 1 then lock the car, unlock with the other key and repeat on memory 2 for SWIMBO see if that works. I have Inpa and BMW 1.4.0 loaded on an old laptop I tend to use 1.4.0 as I find it is much more user friendly and fine up to around 2006 2008 MY all models. You won't need the round adapter as it is straight OBD beneath the steering wheel above the accelerator you will see the little cover/door. I use www.realoem.com for parts information and basic drawings then www.newtis.com it is the same information dealers use for maintenance information and how too's BMW have tried hard but not defeated me yet !! Enjoy Dave

I know what you mean Andrew It was a few years back when I used the Dunlop boys they were very knowledgeable and sorted a wayward AMG I was running out there first they took readings of the set up and you could see where it was out (way out) they made all the adjustments to bring it back to spec supported by a print of both readouts, the cost was around the same as I would pay here in the UK £100 or so about $450 AED. Runflats are notorious for getting noisier as they wear plus if pressures are down wearing oddly (shoulders etc) hope you get it sorted they are awesome cars when all four wheels point the same way!! Good Luck Dave

Morning Andy Welcome to the forum, you will need to open the ZKE (Central Body Electronics) folder and check first that the key is activated in the program then with the key in the ignition set the key up using the the seat memory buttons. DLR's are I think in the LCM folder all tick box programming. Good Luck let us know how you get on Dave

Morning Paul Welcome to the Forum very nice looking car (cars) The Ring can become addictive but its a scary place due to all the other traffic and mixed levels of ability, cars and drivers. With regard to the Decat I believe the current regulations state if there was a Cat fitted OEM it should be there if not automatic fail, same for Diesel DPF delete where I believe they even look for evidence of tampering. I would do a search on MOT regs that should give you some interesting reading (????) or ask an MOT tester I suppose if you fit a Decat pipe you could refit a Cat just for the MOT, but that seems a bit of a FAF you could fit a performance Cat as fitted to competition cars. The performance exhaust boys must be clued up as selling a product that potentially takes their customers car off the road isn't to good for business so thats another information base to dig into.. Though I am sure some will have a small rider somewhere saying something like "off road use only" or "competition use only" Good luck with the upgrades keep us updated Dave

Morning Andrew I take it your X5 is running 20" staggered set up (fatter rear tyres) ? First a common complaint across the BMW range is road noise and ride. Run flat tyres combined with the bigger the wheel the aspect ratio decreases making the ride harder and noise louder. These cars are sensitive to tyre pressure and alignment as well as the need to run BMW * marked tyres to protect the X drive system from wind up (especially if you have the staggered set up) I did read that 20" staggered set up should be 36psi Front 41 psi Rear also run flats get noisier as they wear particularly if the alignment is suspect. A good independent garage with 4 wheel alignment equipment plus new tyres should sort it. You can go to non run flats just make sure they are * marked and correct pressures. Talk to the The Dunlop Pro Shop at the Ibn Battuta petrol station ask them about 4 wheel alignment plus tyres I used them some years back on an AMG Good Luck Dave

Morning Geoff That is a vibration damper the bolt is an M8 Star socket screw the nut M14 and no it shouldn't be loose. One of my son's friends had this I used a Torx socket to remove the bolt the rubber mount seemed in good condition so we put some thread lock on and replaced it tightened it and two years on no issues (well he hasn't complained or mentioned it since). Have a look at www.realoem.com it should show you what you are looking at Good Luck Dave

www.realoem.com will give all options for your model just put the last 7 digits of your Vin in the search box Good Luck

Morning Robert Check on www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin in the search box and it will bring up all the parts including options for your car. In the lighting section you should see all components. The cross reference with www.newtis.com a BMW workshop manual site to see how they do it? Then check for any online video help I am not sure if there would be any clever coding involved though, good luck with the upgrade

Morning Ian and Welcome to the Forum I believe from what I have read the monitor is just that a monitor so should be inter changeable, I would search the net to look for video help. Good luck with the upgrade let us know how it goes

Welcome to the Forum Christopher Nice choice a stonking motor Enjoy

Morning Peter and Welcome Have you tried checking the plugs and coil packs also check the loom to the coil packs in case it is worn somewhere and shorting. A code reader will indicate which cylinder is misfiring. Simple things first do you know when the plugs were last changed? You should have hotter plugs for LPG I would get a set and change the plugs , if the misfire persists I would suspect a coil pack swap the coil from the cylinder with the misfire for one of the others if the misfire moves then you know which is the culprit Hope this helps Dave

Welcome Jon Have a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your vin in the search box and you will have a list of parts and part numbers that you can then use when buying parts also look a www.newtis.com it is a BMW technical information/service information site (same as BMW Dealers use) That should give all the information you need to work through and sort your issue. I am not a diesel driver but have a son who is (Toyota) is the smoke after idle? or at start up? With his he had a leaky injector and when hot and left to idle it would smoke like a chimney Dave

Morning Dennis Welcome to the Forum Nice choice of car, the seat is fixed to the car floor by 4 bolts. I would look at getting a set of spacers made up (depending on how much you need it raised) if not much some washers maybe? If say 2" then spacers and longer bolts are the simplest way.then the car can be returned to standard when selling Dave

Morning John If you have no leaks and coolant at the correct level it should be fine if your concerned you can get thermostats that open at 88 deg. Sometimes when we have had to work on the car and have parts replaced we suffer that horrible uncertainty until we trust it again (been there) Try and enjoy the trip Dave

Come on Rod Do you really think BMW would make it that easy?? Then again why not?? Have you looked at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin in the search box and it will bring up your model, if you haven't used the site before it is a BMW part list which will show all part numbers available for your car. Once you have part numbers you can look at www.newtis.com you can see the BMW workshop instructions and see how it fits together and whether or not the parts are interchangeable. Hope this helps Dave

Morning John Welcome to the Forum, the gauge will move but temperature will be at boiling or above (it's under pressure) to make it happen. You have two temp sensors (if memory serves) plus one linked to the aux/AC fan the gauge takes an average I was once told by a BMW Master Tech. So in answer to your question gauge reading half way is normal mine is exactly the same when I checked with an infra red thermometer on the hose 94 deg C Dave

Welcome Alan First when you say "no heat" I assume you are referring to in the car ? Some checks I would make are (1) is the coolant level correct and no leaks (2) can you adjust the fan speed inside the car (3) check all fuses In the engine bay is a coolant valve (normally passenger side inner wing) if these fail no flow to the heater, also if the FSR (Final Stage Resistor) fails you will have no heat in the cabin plus no fan. both are fiddly not difficult to change. the sender may be the culprit for the gauge not working. Try looking at www.realoem put in the last 7 digits of your Vin in the search box it will bring up your model and all the part numbers, also check www.newtis.info a BMW repair shop information site you will get repair/replacement information there. Hope this helps Dave

Morning Ruben My 10 peneth for what it's worth 2B68 Air mass flow, plausibility. This fault reading can be caused by a dirty (oily) Mass Airflow unit or a old clogged air filter check and clean/replace. I would start with the simple filter change.(Would I think cause random misfire and lack of power) 2FEF Thermal oil level sensor Fairly common fault caused by a number of things Dirty connector or sensor failure (normally just a recorded fault no lights on the dash) 2775 Combustion misfire, cylinder 3 As cylinder 3 is nominated as the culprit Spark plug failure, coil pack failure are the suspects in my opinion. I would start by checking the loom to the connector at the coil pack, it's not unknown for them to chafe and short. If the loom is OK then simplest is the coil pack swap it to one of the other cylinders if the misfire moves that's your fault. If the misfire stays at cylinder 3 it will most likely be the spark plug.. Hope this helps Dave

Welcome to the Forum Alan

Always a tough call I've made it twice with the X5 4.6is both times came down on the side of the old girl. Only just over 800 ever registered in the UK only 400 odd left so who knows I may have a future classic?? If you spent £3k you end up with a car you know and understand that may even increase in value, if you traded it plus £3k would you get a better car ?? Like I say tough call Trevor where are you, you are the Z3 man Dave

Morning Jordan Updating your TV tuner is plug n play. The first method is a search on that well known auction site should get some results but an original Digital tuner will be in the £200+ bracket. Advantage is it will all be controlled from the OEM head unit. The second method is by a Digital TV Tuner (set top box type) and Audio TV SOT lead, with this method its a bit more work to fit as you will have run some cables as you will need to use a remote to tune the TV channels but they work really well. I would look at www.realoem.com search your model and you will find the part number for the digital tv tuner these were common across a lot of BMW models with ibus. As I say not difficult just fiddly Dave

Morning Patrick If your Warranty is a BMW AUC warranty I would talk to your service manager and explain the situation push and as they replaced alloys yet clearly didn't check anything else?? If your Warranty is by other's (warranty Direct or similar) I would ask your friendly garage to talk to them on your behalf, garages do better than us. I am attaching a page from the BMW parts catalogue that shows an exploded drawing of your rear suspension (one side) item 11 is the lower front arm of the rear suspension, if that makes sense to you, it could be slightly bent or the bush at damaged or worn prematurely due to being twisted slightly. That would give the out of alignment reading easily. I would think the arm is in the order of £30 to £50 plus fitting at your friendly garage. As a comparison a full rear suspension replacement kit for both sides of my X5 was £250 plus 4 hrs work for myself and one of my sons (younger and bendier) then £100 for alignment (rear tyres are £250 a side for mine so worth the effort) I am a bit OCD (well a lot) when it comes to the grubby bits underneath that make my car go where I point it and stop it when I need to so I would make it all as original settings. I hope this is a help Dave RealOEM.com - Online BMW Parts Catalog.pdf