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Everything posted by Greydog
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Estimating brake wear and replacement schedules is as Trevor has said virtually impossible due to driving style and journey type. As an example last month I had to make a trip from Sussex to Bishop Auckland left home at silly o'clock and we were on cruise control until stopping for breakfast in Wetherby same for the last 100 odd miles. The return journey was similar until we reached the M25 then I used the brakes more in 30 miles than I had in 600 !! My big fat heavy X5 which also tows a horse trailer in the summer months has had 3 pad changes and 1 disc change in 130k plus the normal brake service fluid changes. You also have pad wear indicators which will normally give warning if things are getting critical, when replacing I would go OEM or equivalent use www.realoem.com to get the part number and do a search Euro car parts are a good source as are some BMW dealers (Cotswold BMW often give discounts) Hope this helps and enjoy your Beemer
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Morning Ian Take a look at www.realoem.com an online BMW parts catalogue if you enter the last 7 digits of your Vin in the search box it will bring up your car spec. Then search bodywork (I think) it will give an exploded drawing showing how it fits together plus part numbers. If your car is like the X5 there are internal and external weather strips, hope this helps Dave
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Very pretty ENJOY
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Morning Gareth These cars are normally tough as the proverbial "old boot" I just had a quick look at www.realoem.com a BMW online parts catalogue as I remember reading some time back about alternator issues. What it shows is 2 suppliers Valeo and Bosch and 3 part numbers, one Valeo alternator is 90 amp and the Bosch and other Valeo 120 amp. If your car needs the larger charging capacity but the replacement was the lower I guess that would be the cause of its early demise. Generally alternators are reliable but the voltage regulator can fail particularly when overworked/overheated, by the way looking at realoem the voltage regulator on yours can be changed separately. If the AA guy did a parts search lets hope he chose the 120 amp If you go onto realoem change the search to classic (box on the left) put the last 7 digits of your Vin in the search box at the top and it will bring up parts for your car. I have only done a quick general search. As for your E39 at 100k it is just run in and with some TLC should be capable of doubling that. Welcome to the Forum and Good Luck
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Old Z3 needs professional restoration , Sussex
Greydog replied to MACS's topic in BMW Z3 & Z4 Series Forum
Morning Micheal You could try Andy Walker "Walkers Autotech" he's at Wisborough Green. He is an ex BMW man who specializes in all things BMW & Porsche, I am sure he would work with you to prioritize a repair list and cost it. Good Luck Dave -
Having to much fun in the M35 Huh!! Welcome and remember a piccy or 2
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Welcome to the Forum
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Glad you found the issue. When was the LPG system last serviced do you know? There are a couple of filters in there that need checking/changing as well (well mine did) I used to have it serviced once a year cost about £90 When I brought the 4.4 it had LPG installed great but when I gave it the beans it would misfire then go back to petrol, I found a local LPG specialist who turned out to be the original installer (how lucky was that) he serviced it and upgraded the software then it ran like a dream.
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The code you have is from a Generic reader so is far to general you need a BMW code reader DIS or similar. It could be anything from a coil pack to as Trevor says worn timing chain. I would get it to someone with a Specific reader or Autologic as a minimum
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Glad it's sorted
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Welcome Mark Good luck with the X6 As far as the seat conversion I am not sure what you are looking for I know there were extra seat options for the E70 X5 , not sure about the X6 though because of the rear roof line. Have a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your vin in the search box if there is a kit it will be there, get the part number then search the usual auction sites Enjoy your new Beemer Dave
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Result (not often you get one in your favour) I use www.realoem.com its a BMW parts list (if your not already aware) for all models put the last 7 digits of your Vin in the search box and it will bring up your specific model. Lost's of information and exploded drawings that help, I also use Pelican Parts an american site they are useful for "how too's" with pictures maybe not much use to you as the cousins across the pond still think a diesel is a truck!! Enjoy your car Dave
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Does This Help According to our sources, oil, coolant and fuel capacity for this version of 2016 BMW 335d xDrive are as follows: Engine lubricant oil capacity: 6.5 liter / 6.9 U.S. qt / 5.7 imp. qt oil change Engine coolant capacity: Fuel tank capacity: 57 liter / 15.1 U.S. gal / 12.5 imp. gal Battery capacity (Ah): 90
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Try Vin Decoder put the last 7 digits of your Vin in and search it will bring up the build sheet for your car www.etkbmw.com/bmw/EN/vin/decoder
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What is different? Check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits in the search box then look in the lights section make sure there are no options get the part number and check to see if someone has fitted an aftermarket lamp unit if all else fails take out the headlamp Dave
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If I recall under the front wing in the wheel arch there is a hatch two twist clips at the top. Use a coin to turn them lift out the hatch and you can reach the bulb holder, you do need the wheel on full lock to give room to get your hand in even better with the wheel off. Good Luck Dave
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How handy are you with spanners? As Trevor says it is a fair bit of work but if your competent mechanically and plan the work methodically then all things are possible. For an engine out job the minimum special equipment will be Jacks, Axel stands and an Engine Crane plus of course a good bag of spanners space to do the work, oh and a couple of mates are always useful. I would look at www.realoem.com put in the last 7 digits of your Vin then check what alternative engines were available for your model, then check all the ancillaries and cross reference them against your model. You should then have a list of what items you need. This will help you gauge the scope and scale of the task. If your going ahead then start by stripping out the existing engine work slowly check out You Tube and Pelican Parts for "how too's" and take lots of pictures they will help when rebuilding. Good Luck Dave
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I had this with a Volvo someone had fitted aftermarket locking nuts and left the original Volvo nut with the car very helpful I tack welded a wheel bolt to the nut and hey presto they were history. Brought a new Vovlo set and made sure I knew where both keys were.
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Any info on these 330ci clubsports
Greydog replied to Markinch motor group's topic in New Members Welcome
Try here https://www.howmanyleft.co.uk/?q=bmw+330+ci+clubsport Looks as though they are getting rarer So enjoy it and don't break it -
Morning Chris Welcome to the Forum to check what you have try www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box and it will bring up the spec for your model and the options. Useful for part numbers and assembly drawings Enjoy that Beemer Dave
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Hi Darrell Welcome to the Forum , I would check on www.realoem.com to make sure you get a compatible part number for the nav unit and your model you may also need the loom. The nav needs coding to make it work I believe the codes can be downloaded. Not sure if the unit will need coding to the chassis or not but this can be done with INPA and DIS. Good luck
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With a full history and only 16 to 18k per year it is as they say "just run in" the BMW 6 cylinder engines are just about the best there are out there so I would have no concerns at that mileage. I would check the gearbox service history ZF recommend fluid changes around a 100k from memory. Many service the engine religiously but forget gearbox and diff's ? As yours is a full main dealer history it should all be done but worth a check. Enjoy your new car
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Have a look on www.realoem.com in the serial number box put the last 7 digits of your vin it will pull up the parts list for your car including engine type. I find it a great source of information
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Hi Steve My X5 is covered by Warranty Direct they took it on at 72k, the car had a full history (and still does) now mileage is at 125k and still covered by them I use a BMW specialist for annual services to maintain cover and WD have been great cost is £400 per year and when a big bit drops of I pay 50% of parts they cover everything else. Example when the chain guides failed the engine rebuild was almost £6k my contribution just over £1k Tip, make sure the garage deal with the Warranty Claim as they make it more difficult for them to wriggle. When buying remember that your 6 series is a complicated beast, I would make certain the engine is cold before starting (put your hand on it) start it and listen for any knocks or rattles while it's warming up make sure every single button and switch does what it should (try them a couple of times) this is a BMW and there will be no quick/cheap fixes particularly tracing electrical faults. Then test drive make it a good one mixed roads and surfaces make sure the gear changes are smooth and the ride is as you would expect. When you get back stop the engine re=start and try the bells and whistles again to make sure it all works, check under neath for any leaks (I look for a clean piece of concrete park up for a few minutes the move and look for drips) If your happy buy it, enjoy it Oh and welcome
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Morning Oliver BMW diffs are a pain I had the rear diff on my X5 fail only to find there are no rebuild kits !! The only source is a new diff from BMW, I did some research and as the speed is monitored from the wheel sensors not gearbox I decided to change front and rear diffs together to ensure the ratio's were compatible. Cost of a new 3.9 diff from BMW £900 + VAT + fitting added up to a £2k quote. So brought 2, 3.7 diffs from a low mileage breaker £320 + VAT with the help of one of my sons (younger bendier and stronger) we swapped them out in a weekend while in there we changed the diff mounting bushes as well. The breaker (sorry Vehicle Recycler) gave me £80 for the front diff that was 2 years and about 20k ago when cruising on the motorway rpm is a little lower but day to day no noticeable difference. I would check on www.realoem.com look at the way the diff mounts for both models if they look the same personally I would go for it,
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