Greydog

Morning Harry Welcome to the Forum Initially the remote start feature was fitted as an option on selected models (G20 was one of them) from around 2014/2015 as far as I am aware it wasn't until 2019/2020 models that it became a standard feature. You obviously need the remote start option plus the remote you can check if your BMW has a remote start. On your touchscreen, you should have an option that reads “iDrive.” From there, all you have to do is scroll over to ‘remote start engine’ and see if it is available or not. If so, then yes, you can enjoy a remote start from your key fob or directly from the app. If you don't have the option I have read about Aftermarket systems that can be fitted but have never seen one in action. Hope this helps Dave

Morning Steven As far as I am aware you need to change the complete assembly as I haven't heard or read of anyone servicing them. You could try companies like Cartronix or ECU Testing (Google should help find them) both have good Reputations As far as I know the butterfly is closed until energised, then open enough to allow idle settings Good Luck Dave

Morning Wayne Welcome to the Forum Great motor ENJOY Dave

Already answered Auri no need for multiple posts For the i8 I think your only option will be a late version of ISTA Dave

Morning Auri Have you tried eManuals online Or get a copy of ISTA/INPA it should have workshop information wiring diagrams etc as part of the diagnostic program (well mine has) Dave

Yay, don't you just love a free fix Dave

Morning Aaron Water circulating short answer, Yes The Auxiliary water pump circulates water around the top of the engine until the thermostat is open fully I don't know why you had the DPF messed with, a vigilant MOT tester will fail the car if its spotted. It is also quite probably the reason for your fan running. The fan is triggered when the DPF is in Regeneration so if some of the DPF sensors are reading regen conditions then that is your problem Dave

Morning Neil Welcome to the Forum That doesn't sound good !! It could be a number of things the biggest and most concerning is Timing chain If you can't investigate yourself you need the help of a Mechanic or Garage Dave

Hi John Seats are heavy even more so if fully powered the fixings have to be able to contain tons of force in the event of an accident and not break free. Those fixings will hold not just the seat but a very large person, where they mount is heavily reinforced so the studs will definitely stop the seat lifting at the rear particularly as the seat runner profiles are designed not to deform/bend in just such a scenario as having a missing fixing. If your worried slacken the nuts but don't take them off the stud that should allow you to lift the rear about an inch or so. Dave

Morning Andy Quick question are the lights that are out on the same side? I would first check the multiple earth points on the side that the lights are out, simple things first. As said in my original post it could be a Junction box issue you need Diagnostics by someone with a BMW capable software/scanner Autel, Autologic, iCarsoft, Launch, all have capable systems these days not sure about their ability to program though Obviously the best is ISTA/INPA which will let you do just about anything if you understand how to use it. So if you don't want to buy your own system may be find a member local to you who will help if not available. A BMW Specialist or good Independent Garage but obviously here is where ££££ rack up Good Luck Dave

Morning John To use realoem you need to put the last 7 Digits of your Vin Number into the search box it will bring up your model, then look at the seat section. I have just done that without your Vin and attached is the Diagram it tells me item 4 is an M10 bolt and there should be 3 Item 6 is an M10 Hex nut ribbed and there are 2 with cover caps. So either slacken off the nuts or remove them and your there Dave

Hi Andy It surely isn't helping that's for certain BMW use a lot of Earth switched circuits I have traced quite a few Faults that were caused by poor earthing. In your original post you say 11 lighting faults did you find them by diagnostics or do you have lighting staying on? Or off ? Or flickering? I would replace the Earth straps clear down the faults the re-scan Dave

Hi Paul Yes the EGR cooler hoses and sometimes the cooler it's self, on the top of the DPF you should have an exhaust pressure sensor if it is acting up it can give all sorts of strange symptoms. There are a few good Videos online showing cleaning methods that should help. If you aren't aware you can check on www.realoem.com what is there and where stuff fits the small exploded drawing can be really helpful in knowing where bits go Dave

Hi Brian Welcome to the Forum Do you know if the gearbox has been serviced/fluid changed, the poor old gearbox is one of the often abused parts of the drive train. if it is low on fluid or has never been serviced that is where the problem may be The ZF schedule is service every 30000km or 24 months Hope this helps Dave

Morning Paul Welcome to the Forum You are on the money the EGR would be my starting point check all the hoses as well often they are clogged and get missed. Also worth checking the inlet manifold I have seen them full of soot Test the exhaust sensors as well I did the clean on a friend of our son's 120d we spent most of a Saturday cleaning everything they took it for a test drive on the bypass and they came back howling with laughter, apparently when he floored it on the bypass there was a huge black cloud left behind they said it looked like a special effect from a Harry Potter film 🤣 Good Luck with the Clean Dave

Morning John Have you looked at www.realoem.com it should let you see where the fixings are and what they are for your model Dave

Morning Darren Welcome to the Forum As I understand it BMW restrict the Hybrid versions to 750kg braked to protect the hybrid drive train. Petrol/Diesel versions are rated at 1700kg current models, earlier models 2000kg Confusing and quite impractical for many caravaners, me I will stick with my E70 as we tow a Horse trailer with two fat horses 😁 Dave

Morning John There should be 4 M10 bolts holding the seat rails to the floor ? So if you have only taken 3 out no wonder you are having trouble 😆 Will the seat height adjustment not give enough lift? Dave

Morning Andy I upgraded the FRM in my X5 4.6is which added a few possible functions Realoem only shows FRM 3 as fitted listed below are the part numbers and alternatives. For repair have you tried ECU Testing or Catronix they may be able to help 61356827063 Footwell module 3 From: 11/18/2016 To: - Weight: 277.350 kg Price: Supersedes: 61356801294 (12/01/2015 — 10/27/2017), Bilaterally exchangeable 61359342897 (11/01/2014 — 02/25/2016), Exchangeable retrospectively 61359308375 (04/01/2013 — 01/12/2015), Exchangeable retrospectively 61359287252 (04/01/2012 — 10/15/2013), Bilaterally exchangeable 61359286155 (04/01/2012 — 03/19/2014), Exchangeable retrospectively 61359263792 (10/01/2011 — 06/13/2013), Exchangeable retrospectively 61359249075 (04/01/2011 — 03/19/2014), Exchangeable retrospectively 61359242524 (10/01/2010 — 09/01/2011), Bilaterally exchangeable 61359230434 (04/01/2010 — 03/19/2014), Exchangeable retrospectively 61359224619 (07/07/2009 — 12/11/2014), Bilaterally exchangeable 61359220154 (06/29/2009 — 06/17/2009), Exchangeable retrospectively 61359176826 (09/01/2008 — 01/14/2010), Exchangeable retrospectively 61359170455 (01/01/2008 — 11/21/2008), Bilaterally exchangeable 61359166669 (09/01/2007 — 04/18/2008), Exchangeable retrospectively 61359153805 (03/01/2007 — 09/14/2007), Bilaterally exchangeable 61359147388 (11/01/2006 — 03/02/2007), Bilaterally exchangeable 61359140887 (10/01/2006 — 10/09/2006), Bilaterally exchangeable 61359133167 (10/01/2006 — 09/11/2006) Part 61356827063 was found on the following vehicles: X5 E70   (02/2006 — 06/2013) X5 E70 LCI   (04/2009 — 06/2013) X6 E71   (01/2007 — 06/2014) X6 E72 Hybrid   (10/2008 — 10/2011) Dave Message not specified.

Morning Nick Welcome to the Forum If all you want is noise it will help if you want an increase in performance then there are a lot of other things involved. Manufacturers spend a lot of money on Fluid dynamics and gas flow analysis to get the best combination of power, performance and sound. The diameter of the exhaust if the silencer is replaced with a straight pipe will only flow the same amount of exhaust gas so apart from noise no change. A good ECU tuner will be able to find significant power increase particularly when combined with induction and exhaust modifications so it depends what your trying to achieve and how much budget you have Dave

Morning Andy Welcome to the Forum A diagnostic would be the place to start as it could be the footwell control module or Junction Box control module. Before changing the Footwell Module make sure it is the same part number a be aware that this unit also stores a record of the cars mileage so changing it will give a tamper dot beside the mileage on the dash display. So a replacement will need registering to your chassis and recorded mileage entered. Some BMW specialists suck their teeth and make it sound difficult and Dealers ££££££ You just need the help of someone with a good BMW capable diagnostic scanner ISTA/Inpa is best but Autologic Foxwell and several others can do it these days. Good Luck Dave

Morning Iain Welcome to the Forum Simple job swapping the stop/start button should take max 5 minutes. Prize out the existing button using a trim removal tool or a small flat screw driver with some insulation tape stuck on the blade to avoid scratches to surrounding trim. lift the button out and release the plug at the rear plug in the replacement and push it home. Job done Good Luck Dave

Morning Richard Must be the season for it I did exactly the same thing pulled the X off my X5 boot I used a number plate mounting sticky pad that I had in the garage, cleaned the badge cleaned the boot then trimmed the sticky pad to fit That was just over a month ago and 3 wash/polish sessions extra care now around the badges though Dave

Morning Alan Welcome to the Forum I have done this job (or similar seat jammed) on a 5 series. The only way I could figure out was to raise the seat angle at the front the motor that controls front rear movement was on the transmission tunnel side of the seat. The two bolts that hold the motor to the frame can be undone and the motor wriggled back to disengage the drive gear, the seat was then free to move so it could be taken out. Getting under the seat to release the motor was a real faff and high on the cuss list. Don't forget as soon as the seat is raised as high as you can get disconnect the battery to avoid any airbag issues. It goes without saying the job is easy peasy with the seat out. If you aren't aware use www.realoem.com to get the correct part number for replacement, if you have any issues let us know. Dave

Hi David Don't ignore 5, 6, 7 series models of around your cars age they all had ACC as an option as I recall Dave