Greydog

It will probably be the chain in the transfer box that seems to be the culprit if your getting a grinding noise. If you have the transfer box down open it up and have a look.

I have read about a shaft with an extended spline but they have all been talked about on the US forums. I believe the company is in California What symptoms are you getting?

Try Googling BMW 1.4.0 scanner for about 20 euro you can get yourself up and running on a lap top, you can read all your codes and reset if necessary. All errors have a straight forward explanation so easy to understand I use one myself and even though I use a BMW specialist it is useful to know what the issue is before I get there (he is starting to believe I am a BMW guru) There are many small things that I do my self PDC repairs for one.

Do you have the business radio with tape or CD above, or the 16.9 screen with Nav? If you have the former there are several companies who do pixel repairs for the radio and instrument cluster. Or check out Ebay for replacement if you want to stay OEM. The alternative is a replacement head unit Dynavin, Hualigin or similar which will give DVD/CD Nav, TV, Bluetooth etc.

Not all were fitted with an external amp and sub woofer, though the wiring is in place in most if you look in the rear right hand cubby you will see a blue plug this is for the sub.

Not enough information ? What year is your X5 ? What system the Business Radio or Screen with Nav? First is to check with a meter if you have output at the speakers themselves. If there is output then the speakers are probably at fault (you have checked left right balance settings?) If there is no output then it could be the radio module BM24 or newer BM54 there are several companies who now repair and upgrade the radio units. This may help with checking connections and wiring. X5 Radio Module and Amp Information 2002 and newer Radio Module - w/Nav Pin No. / Wire Color / Function Large Black Plug x18126 1 / Blue-Black / Right Rear + output to amp (twisted with 5) 2 / Blue-Red / Right Front + output to amp (twisted with 6) 3 / Yellow-Red / Left Front + output to amp (twisted with 7) 4 / Yellow-Black / Left Rear + output to amp (twisted with 8) 5 / Blue-Black / Right Rear + output to amp (twisted with 1) 6 / Blue-Red / Right Front + output to amp (twisted with 2) 7 / Yellow-Red / Left Front + output to amp (twisted with 3) 8 / Yellow-Black / Left Rear + output to amp (twisted with 4) 9 / White-Yellow bands / I-bus? 10 / White-Brown / Mute from phone? 11 / White-Green / ? 12 / Brown / Ground 13 / White / Remote on-off to amp 14 / Grey-Red / Dash illumination (dimmer) 15 / Red-Green / +12v from battery (not switched) 16 / Violet-White / +12v from ignition (ACC and RUN) small white plug x13598 Pin No. / Wire Color / Function 1 / / No function 2 / White-Brown / Audio common from 6CD player 3-7 / / No connection 8 / White-Red / Audio Left Channel from 6CD player 9 / White-Blue / Audio Right Channel from 6CD player 10 / / No Connection 11 / NAV / TV Audio + 12 / NAV / TV Audio - NEW Small black plug: x13649 plug Pin No. / Wire Color / Function 1 / Tape left + 2 / Tape left - 3 / Left Connection for AUX Input 4 / Right Connection for AUX Input 5 / NAV / TV Audio + 6 / White-Black / Phone audio + Positive 7 / Tape right + 8 / Tape right - 9 / No connection 10 / AUX Input Ground 11 / NAV / TV Audio + 12 / Brown-Black / Phone Audio - Groundv2000 - 2001 Radio Module - w/Nav Pin No. / Function 1 / Speaker - Front Left (+) 2 / Speaker - Front Right (+) 3 / Speaker - Rear Left (+) 4 / Telephone Mute 5 / +12v from ignition (ACC and RUN) 6 / Speaker - Rear Right (+) 7 / DAC - i-bus 8 / Speaker - Front Left (-) 9 / Back Up (?) (terminal 30 - Fuse F56) 10 / GAL - speed signal 11 / Speaker Front Right (-) 12 / Speaker Rear Left (-) 13 / Nighttime Illumination Signal 14 / Speaker Rear Right (-) 15 / Ground 16 / Auto Antenna - diversity 17 / Not Used (LAC) x18805: Pin No. / Function 1 / Audio Cassette Right (+) 2 / Audio Cassette Right (-) 3-4 / No connection 5 / Low Frequency Signal (-) - Nav Control Module / Video Module 6 / Audio Cassette Left (+) 7 / Audio Cassette Left (-) 8-9 / No Connection 10 / Low Frequency Signal (+) - Nav Control Module / Video Module x01037 Pin No. / Function 1 / Low Frequency Voltage Signal CD Changer Left 2 / Low Frequency Voltage Signal CD Changer Right 3 / Shield - audio shield 4-5 / No Connection 6 / Low Frequency Voltage Signal CD Changer Left 7 / Low Frequency Voltage Signal CD Changer Right 8-10 / No ConnectionThe following link is diagram of the X5 hi-fi amplifier (non-DSP). You will need the Adobe SVG plug-in to view it.http://www.bmwmotorsports.org/crew/u...0000014774.svg Or you can piece together these three images: Image 1 Image 2 Image 3In case you are not familiar with the German colors BR brown GE yellow GN green OR orange VI violet GR grey SW black WS white RT red BL blue TR transparent In the diagram the module N9 is the radio (or the Business CD unit), H55 is the left front midrange speaker, and H54 is the right right front midrange speaker, both being on top of the dash. Signals TLH+/- are for the rear left woofer Signals MTHL+/- are for the midrange speaker/tweeter, rear left Signals TLV+/- are for the front left woofer Signals HLV+/- are for the front left tweeter Signals HRV+/- are for the front right tweeter Signals TRV+/- are for the front right woofer Signals MTHR+/- are for the midrange speaker/tweeter, rear right Signals TRH+/- are for the rear right woofer

I believe one reads lower levels the other higher (don't have a clue why) I also believe one is easy the other a real pig to change. I read a post on another forum. Have a look on www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your chassis number in and it will bring up the spec for your car, at least you will be able to see where they are and how they fit. If you know someone with a BMW scanner get the codes read that may identify the guilty part with more accuracy.

Have a check on www.realoem.com you can search the 3.0i X5 engine and other models so you will be able to make better comparison. It is only my opinion but I would guess that the basic engines are the same but the mounting of ancillary's will differ model to model. Do you need a complete engine or can you rebuild the one you have? I hope this helps, good luck with the project

Those stilts would do it DazH, just leave the roof open!!

Unless its to late to add to your order or worse extends the delivery!! Good luck and enjoy the new car

How weird that the mirrors don't show on the option list !! I guess you have asked BMW, crazy I have a friend who has just taken delivery of a new (2014) F25 X3 (with power folding mirrors) and a new (2014) Mini Cooper without folding mirrors ?? The BMW Dealer and BMW UK told him you have to have power memory seats to have power folding mirrors he asked how much the seats were for the mini and was told "Oh we don't do those for the Mini" crazy. He has however found a kit online which allows folding of the mirrors from the key fob??? As has been said earlier this is something that's pretty much standard on cars costing less than a third of the price of a BMW. So come on BMW wake up!!

Check the drop links?

A cautionary note ! My first X5 (and my first used car for many years) had a full Dealer history (80k) yet when it was serviced at a trusted BMW specialist the oil filter was jammed in the housing with thick black sludge, clearly it hadn't been changed for some time!! When buying a used car always assume the worst then you will get few nasty surprises service indicators can be reset without doing any work at all. Your car has missing stamps in the book the last owner may have been meticulous or not there is little way of telling. My advice is to assume nothing has been done and carry out a full inspection 2 service then you know where you are coming from. If servicing yourself keep all receipts in a folder as proof when selling on.

If you have the service book look at the last few pages they will tell you what is checked/changed at each service. There will be clues as to how the car has been maintained, what colour is the oil on the dip stick ? If its clean chances are it was at least given oil changes, if its thick and black !!! It depends on how handy you are with spanners or whether you need some support from a good local garage (BMW independent) I would go for a full level 2 service and change all filters and oils in diffs and transfer box at least then you know where you are starting from (remember a stamped book means its been in a garage/dealers but is no guarantee work has been carried out to the correct standard) Suspension will need a good check bushes need changing at around 80k or so tyre wear is the main symptom www.realoem.com will let you see drawings to help enter the last 7 digits of your chassis number to see your specific model Good Luck

Have a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your chassis number in then open "engine" then "Lubrication system" that will bring up the spec for your car so can be sure. I just pulled up this in a general search could it be item 2 ?

!Removed! Kids !!

I cant comment on the E70 and newer but with the E53 the drivers window control unit had a small button allowing the mirrors to fold in. They can also be coded to fold in on locking. Something dealers were happy to take your money for!! If you dont have the power fold button on the window control then you may be out of luck. I think all the mirrors have the motors but you will be missing the sensors in the mirror mechanism and probably the power loom plus the switch unit. I totally agree that on so called "Prestige" car it is a glaring omission, though BMW have always had a thing about getting customers to pay for "extra specification" to personalize their cars. You know "windows sir of course we can add those they are just??" "steering wheel of course sir we have an excellent choice of those" For all their faults though they are good cars

Exactly! if you did have the BMW removable tow bar that is where it is stored. Just nipped out and took a couple of pictures of mine

If your X was fitted with the removable tow bar that is part of the storage mount position.

They also made an X5 E53 V12 (Vids on U tube somewhere) that would really move 5 peeps and their luggage.

If you have the eject box it is likely that you also have the rest of the kit. You can buy a snap in holder for your Iphone that replaces the pen tray it will charge your phone and use the cars antenna. On the front end of the "Pen Tray" there should be a "Pairing" button (looks like the voice button on the steering wheel) The pairing process is in your handbook, you should also have a card with your handbooks that has the pass key (4 digit number) if you cant find it it will be on the unit in the left side of the boot. Pairing is easy sit in the car key in the ignition but the ignition off, press and hold the pairing button (not the voice button on the wheel) for 3secs turn the key to position 1 continue to hold the button down the screen will say "Pairing" plus on mine the Telephone lights flash. release the button and set your phone to search and follow its instructions, when it finds the car enter the pass key. Job done ignition off then start the car your phone should be paired, if not the ULF memory in the car may be full and you may have to delete previously paired phones.

My guess would be rear sub-frame bushes a common problem around 80k upwards. They are not a nightmare job OEM will cost about £80 to £100 a set depending on where you buy, I changed mine for Polybushes £195 a set plus £45 for tool hire (bush puller) I changed the rear spherical bushes while I was under there £29 a side. I am an old bloke and an average DIY er but the whole lot took 5hrs with tea breaks. Good luck

Try www.realoem.com open the site and put in the last 7 digits of your vin number then you can scroll through the menus and find what you need. It has drawings and part numbers. Interior colour not sure, I know the paint code is on the plate inside the drivers wing maybe interior code is there also, mine has black interior so not very hard to match. I use Black shoe polish on the drivers bolster the only wear point on mine, then Chemical Guys Leather treatment. With my wifes car (cream leather interior I chicken out with interior and paint) I paid a specialist who repaired a couple of splits in seams and scuffs cleaned and refurbished all the leather and dash for £270 the result was amazing like a new interior. Hope this helps

Before buying make sure everything works correctly, an X5 is a complicated beast so before test driving I start the car and listen for any strange noises/smoke. Sit in the car and while it is warming up check all the electrical gadgets you have work as they should. When warmed up take it for a test drive make sure its over varied roads so you can give it the beans (check for smoke in the mirrors) feel how the gear changes are under all conditions. Check for creaks and groans or knocks from the suspension. Engine Gearbox and Drive train must be good if not walk away, suspension can be used as a negotiation point (not cheap but can be done DIY) If there are electrical gremlins these cars can drive an experienced electrician nuts (just check all the forums) plus the cost of changing out and repairing units can be scary so again I would walk away (a couple of hundred off wont do it) All said I am on my second X5 the first needed suspension bushes at the rear and a new FSR these items were done by the supplying dealer the car went through 2 MOT's with no advisories. The current X5 again needed some bushes this time I used it as a bargaining tool. Take care buy carefully and enjoy

First check that the disc is a BMW OEM disc these can be temperamental. Have you tried the "disconnect battery for 30mins" trick this resets everything and has fixed many strange gremlins plus make sure your battery is fully charged. If all else fails you may have failed laser head, not unheard of. You can buy a laser head replacement if you want to DIY or send the unit off for repair if not. Either is cheaper than a replacement.