Greydog

Morning Adrian Welcome to the Forum You might ask us what colour the car is ?? Just not enough information, is the car Manual or Auto ? How many miles ? Tyre Condition ? Sorry Dave

Morning Brian Welcome to the Forum I have only seen 1 X7 locally you lucky boy (West Sussex) so cant help. All I can say is this last year has been one of the worst for some time for mud and crud on the roads. My X5 has the BMW OEM parts but they are more deflectors than mud flaps so the jet wash has been out a lot over the winter. Dave

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Morning Kenny It depends on what diagnostic reader you have as to whether you see a fault or not. How ever most peoples first warning is the EML, check the intake side for any air/vacuum leaks but as you seem to have 2 confirmations it seems you may have failing Lambda's Take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model, then check the exhaust section to get the part number. Once you have the part number Google it to find the best price. remember BMW don't make sensors they buy them in so most Auto Factors can supply them. Actually changing them is a fairly straight forward process just take your time (youtube videos will help) one on top and one underneath. Cost I would guess at £50 for the top £100 for the long one underneath Dave

Morning Jason Welcome to the Forum What diagnostic are you using? Cause can be Steering angle sensor or DSC control unit even a failing/failed wheel speed sensor Obviously the wheel speed sensor is the simplest fix hopefully that s your issue Dave

Morning James That all seems good so if your still getting a spongy pedal it seems like master cylinder seals are about all that is left, No ballooning/swelling of flexible brake lines Running out of ideas now

Morning Nick Welcome to the Forum Not good news, are you thinking of doing the work yourself or using a Garage? An engine rebuild at a garage will be more costly as there will be a lot of parts and labour. A warranted engine swap would involve less labour time and get you back on the road quicker If your doing it yourself you have the opportunity to dismantle the original engine and decide whether it is salvageable may be rebuild and sell to recover some cost Good Luck Dave

Happy your sorted Christopher, AmeriCAN 👍 Do you know why the fuses were blown ?? When they go again will you just change them My advice was to get your own diagnostics so you know the cause Enjoy your Beemer

Morning Aaron First thing check the tyres are all correct and the same wear rate. Put the car in reverse and find somewhere you can reverse on full lock any jerking in reverse is a sign of Transfer Case issues caused mostly by mismatched tyres. Check the spline on the front drive shaft there were issues with these wearing and jumping though I thought this was fixed with the E70 on models. Obvious things like Wheels, Tyres, Drive Shafts (have known a drive shaft to pop that hadn't been fully seated fully) Wheel Bearings OK Engine mounts normally give other symptoms and noises vibration at tick over erratic tick over Good Luck keep us posted Dave

Morning Christopher If your going to do your own repairs invest in a BMW friendly Diagnostic System it will be worth its weight in $$$$ There are now several available that allow full Dealer level access, the best is BMW INPA/ISTA (also probably the dearest) I say the best because it also includes WIS (Workshop instructions) Parts lists and a wealth of other stuff. But iCarsoft is very good as are Foxwell and Autologic Carly also have a system but it is subscription. A Diagnostic scan should very quickly identify the culprit, otherwise you are changing parts and hoping. You could get the car to a BMW Dealer and ask them to carry out a diagnostic scan obviously they will charge for this $$$$ (BMW Dealers in the UK charge £200+ p/hr) they will hope to get you to let them repair it as well,( not at their rates ). In the UK we have a register of BMW Specialists Google should help if there is similar in the USA they are normally less than half dealer costs. Once you know the cause you can use www.realoem.com a BMW Online parts list to find the correct part number and the Internet to find a replacement, new or used. Then fitting is just patience and logic sometimes a part may need registering to the car but I have found often if it is the same part number it isn't required. In the US you have www.pelicanparts.com look at their Articles section they have great "How to's" with pictures plus advice sections So there is loads of help and support and working on your BMW isn't as daunting as many suppose, Good Luck Dave

Morning James OK process I follow is Tools. Pressure Bleed kit 3litre (mine is around 15/20 tears old) Large syringe to suck old fluid from reservoir, Nylon mallet, Brake nipple spanners, Fluid (correct for car) Tip never store opened Brake Fluid it will absorb moisture from the air giving more problems long term Jack up the car on level ground and place on axel stands, remove the wheels. Clean around all 4 bleed nipples and the Master Cylinder cap. Set up the pressure bleed kit, I use a large syringe to empty the master cylinder, top up with fresh fluid. Attach the pressure bleed cap and apply 15psi Always start at the wheel cylinder furthest from the master cylinder normally passenger rear. Check the catch bottle is attached and crack open the bleed nipple keep an eye on the fluid tap the brake caliper in case there is any air in the cylinders you will often see bubbles. When the fluid is clear and bubble free lock off the nipple and remove the catch tank. Check the Master Cylinder for level and move to the Drivers rear and repeat the process (I activate the ABS in case there are any air bubbles in there) Same procedure once the fluid is clear and bubble free lock off the nipple and move to passenger front Bleed and check Master cylinder level then the last Drivers front. Once complete check the master cylinder is at the full mark ( I keep a towel tucked under the master cylinder just in case there is any spillage) replace the master cylinder cap and sensor plug activate the ABS one last time. Job done If the brakes are spongy or the pedal settles under pressure it is normally a leak or air is still in the system. Sinking Brake pedal under pressure (engine running) is in my experience often a Vacuum leak replacing the vacuum line and non return valve normally fixes it. Other causes can be Master cylinder seals worn. Not trying to teach Granny here just passing on what I would do Good Luck Dave

Morning Yanson Welcome to the Forum If you can gather enough evidence and other BMW owners with the issue why not as you say do the same but also copy in Rogue Traders. BMW did not enjoy their last visit to the show and suddenly grew a sense of responsibility towards their customers Good Luck Dave

Morning Vladimir Welcome to the Forum Some things to check, 1st, What wheel set up do you have? if the rears are wider than the fronts ( Staggered setup) then using the correct size tyres from a well known Brand (BMW * rated if possible) is critical to protect the Transfer case and transmission. If the car has same size wheels front and rear you can still get issues if the tyres are mismatched brands. Looking at the record Tyres changed at 25000 miles is about right for a new set. The tyre repaired remounted at 28000 could be a puncture repair or pot hole damage. Tyre mounted at 30700 again balance or damage repair Tyres rotated at 37075 Not required and shouldn't be done with a staggered set up but at least they are checking at service. 45000 Tyre repaired tyres checked and pressures checked With all the tyre damage either the previous owner/owners were unlucky or clumsy check the wheels for signs of crack repair at the rims also buckling. As 45000 was the last check what miles are on it now as the tyres will be close to change, not cheap so a good negotiating point providing the car is in good mechanical and body condition and it is what you want. Good Luck Dave

Morning James Welcome to the Forum Looking at BMW WIS the ABS unit should be activated as part of the brake bleeding process a Good BMW friendly Diagnostic program should allow this. Check the vacuum line to the servo and non return valve at the servo if they are perished it gives a spongy pedal. When you were bleeding the brakes are you sure you got all the air out of the system ? If you are re-doing it don't use fluid from an open can that has been sitting in the garage it doesn't take long to absorb moisture from the air (another spongy cause) Good Luck Dave

Hi Paul Could be gasket or could be the shaft seals, As the pump has to come off I would change it as a precaution a water pump and coolant is only about £150 maybe change the thermostat to Just my thoughts Dave

Try putting it in the Cars for sale section

Morning Robert Welcome to the Forum Hmmm I use BMW ISTA/INPA and it will normally record all faults in the cars history even "Not present faults" unless they have been cleared by the operator. Many people using Diagnostics start by clearing all faults, then run the diagnostic to see what returns. The problem is they have also cleared any history so if the issue is intermittent any trace is gone to. EML is triggered by all sorts of issues from an Air leak to a short or poor earth in the loom to one of the sensors, sensors seem to either work or not so while I would test them I don't dismiss them, O2 sensors have a life so dependent on mileage and assuming no air leaks or vacuum leaks my testing would start there. Unfortunately it can be an expensive process if your paying an hourly rate Good Luck Dave

Morning Robert Welcome to the Forum Never done the job but I would search the Net for any help before starting Check any websites that may help like www.pelicanparts.com that have "How To's" in their Articles section with pictures Good Luck Dave

Morning Christopher Welcome to the Forum The cars are pretty much the same just you guys have the steering on the wrong side 😂 We already have quite a few members in the USA so if we can help we will Dave

Morning Ricky A normally aspirated engine (your 4.8is) will see an increase by an ECU tune alone but will never see the type of gains a Forced induction engine will So you need a target and a plan, Carol Shelby famously said "Speed costs money, how fast can you afford to go" A good ECU tuner will need to know what other upgrades have been done in order for him to optimise them. Look for a rolling road tuner so you will see printed proof of increases before and after. A cheap chip tune will rarely see the gains claimed. Standard engine should be in the region of 350/360 bhp a rolling road session will let you know how many are there for sure and is your start point. I would look at intake and Exhaust to start. Bigger throttle body and free flow headers and Cats then back on the Rolling Road and and tune the ECU. If that doesn't give enough then more aggressive Cams but now your into engine work when I rebuilt my 4.6is 10 years ago now the engine parts bill alone was almost £3k if you are going to add garage labour then more than double that. I also added a Dinan Super Charger kit from the USA Also remember the Transmission when you reach 400+hp there is a lot more torque going through the Gearbox Transfer case and Diffs they need to be tip top or upgraded to handle the extra grunt, and last but not least Brakes and Suspension. Good Luck with whatever you do Dave

Morning Richard Check www.realoem.com the small exploded drawings will show how stuff should fit. Check the mounting face for any old gasket or imperfections. Then reassemble using a new gasket that is the way I would go Dave

Morning Robin Welcome to the Forum I replaced both rear Air springs and compressor last year on my E70 mine rarely alters now. The compressor runs on cold mornings while adjusting ride height that is about it. So back to the garage as if it is dropping that much there must be a fault or leak Dave

Morning Dezron First what colour is the Engine light ? If RED don't run the engine you could do damage £££££ If Orange the fault could be plugs, Coil Packs, Wiring, O2 sensors, MAF the list goes on. When was it last serviced? A diagnostic scan would confirm Dave

Morning Nellie The Master Cylinder in your car was used in several BMW Models from 1 series to Mini so should be available from a good Auto Factors I would expect to pay around a £150 or so (may be double if BMW OEM) plus Brake fluid a BMW Dealer will charge around £200 + per hr that is around 5 hrs labour ?? Find a Good Independent garage and ask for a price to replace the Brake Master Cylinder As for the Insurers I have used Tesco insurance and (touches wood) never had to use it, are the brakes part of the claim? If not I am at a loss Good Luck Dave

Morning Nellie Welcome to the Forum The cause of the brake failure needs identifying and fixing, you say the car has a full history has a brake service been carried out ? By whom ? And when? Has the brake fluid level been checked ? Brakes are hydraulic in a closed system if they are losing fluid the leak certainly needs identifying and fixing. Has your daughter noticed any fluid on the floor or reduced braking effect (soft pedal) before the incident ? I don't understand your insurers, if a car was towed to the body shop they would repair the body and paint not test drive it ? But hey Insurers rule we can't move without it these days Dave