Greydog

Just spoke with my Brother-inlaw he has a 540 Touring apparently his is stuck to the Headlining using a double sided sticky pad saves touching the tailgate trim and works really well. Dave

Oh my Lordy Lordy Take a look at www.realoem.com either search by model or put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it should bring up your model. Then look at the trim section there are small exploded drawings that should help even if it is an earlier model fixing will be very similar As far as I am aware the roof liner is a preformed section that is held in place by trim clips and screws at the grab handles, it is on my X5 anyway (I assume you have the Panoramic Roof not that it makes any difference) The Auto electrician quote is probably for 1 or 2 hrs work and seems reasonable. My experience of Halfords is "Good for Parts" but that's it. BMW like most Manufacturers have things designed for Production line assembly not necessarily for being worked on often on modern cars whole sub assemblies have to come off to gain access ??? I have a friend who has a Mercedes SL he settled for a combined Front/rear camera that sits by the mirror and seems to work well. Dave

Morning Ram Welcome to the Forum As it is less than 3 years old have you tried the Dealer it should be tight and quiet? Obvious thing ask a passenger to place a finger on the dash/lid around the Glove box to see if that effects the rattle. At least you will know where it comes from. I take it the glove box is empty ? be embarrassing to have a dealer empty it and stop the rattle 😁 Dave

Morning Sue Welcome to the Forum Sadly Halfords staff are not the best trained or knowledgeable lucky he didn't drill holes What you need is a set of trim removal tools and some patience, on the tail gate the upper trim panel I would remove then there are trim panels on the hinges (you only need one side I would say passenger side) The roof liner will need freeing up at the rear, now you should be able to feed the camera lead through from the tailgate to the headlining. Replace the tailgate trims and start working along the side of the car above the doors take off the grab handles and pull down the rubber door seals you should find enough room to feed the cable along the edge inside the Headliner to the front. Nice and neat out of site and no holes, time wise I would allow 2 or 3hrs with tea and biscuit breaks. A decent Auto electrician would I guess take about the same maybe quicker as they do it more often. If you can't DIY then look for a good local garage or auto electrician (their rates will be way less the BMW) Google fitting the camera see what comes up you never know someone may have posted a video Good Luck Dave

Morning IIija Welcome to the Forum Normally with aftermarket Head units there will be a Canbus interface that plugs in to allow all in car controls to work as normal I would guess either the Canbus interface hasn't been fitted or is at fault have you tried contacting the Manufacturer to see if they can offer advice ? Installation manual for example that may give clues. Good Luck Dave

Sorry Tony Can't find much to help other than the sounder should be clipped into the kick panel in the drivers footwell there should be a plug on top. Try unplugging one of the plugs on the PDC control unit in the boot (one front one rear) If you get one end working it may help narrow it down. Dave

Morning Mehmet Sometimes when confidence goes in a car moving on is the best thing Good luck with whatever you decide after all we get cars to enjoy not stress us out Dave

Have you had a Diagnostic scan using a BMW capable scanner? Check the ignition switch and circuit. I take it the "Display" is the cars screen ? Dave

👍👍😁 Well done Mick Dave

Morning Liam Welcome to the Forum Not good any Idea how bad an accident ?? Worth checking the Engine mounts and the Transmission mount Engine mounts have a vacuum attachment which can effect running and vibration Dave

i believe there could be one under the Drivers seat. Strange you have sounder under the dash and no wiring ?? I wonder if a previous owner has helpfully re-routed it I will have a look at INPA later see if I can find any clues/wiring diagrams Dave

Morning John Welcome to the Forum A quick look at www.realoem.com shows 3 alternate part numbers First 13621286064 discontinued in 2004 Next 13627547981 and last 13621279704. Try Google to find a supplier of any of these These were used on your model plus 3,5,and 7 series cars that used that engine Hope this Helps Dave

If you look under the spare wheel you will find the battery mounted in front of the battery you should see a white or grey plastic unit it has 3 plugs on top 1, White 1,Blue 1.Black that is the PDC controller One plug is for the front sensors one is for the rear sensors the third is for the Tow Bar electrics if they are fitted it turns of the sensors when the trailer electrics are plugged in There will be no warnings other that with a full scan if I scan my E53 it will tell you which part is not working EG. Rear sensor Centre Right or PDC controller error As I said these often get water damage Good Luck Dave

Morning Tony The system is fairly simple the PDC sensors x 8 which from your description seem to be working the fact they are working also indicates the loom is OK. In the boot buried in front of the Battery is the PDC unit it has 3 plugs on top 1. Front 2. Rear 3. for towing connection these units often get wet so worth checking it. Look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your car. Then find the PDC unit and its Part number to help locate a replacement on the internet. Also check the sounder Drivers footwell or under drivers seat A copy of BMW 1.4.0 would be a brilliant addition to your tool box mounted on a Lap top it will give Dealer level Diagnostics cost should be under £30 Good Luck Dave

Morning Phil Welcome to the Forum Depending on Year up to around 2008/9 I believe it was in the boot right hand side after that it was I think it was combined with the Junction box that is buried behind behind the Glove Box. Check online for some Video help and a bucket of Patience 😅 Check the loom carefully my E70 had persistent PDC issues it turned out to be a crack in the insulation on the front bumper loom. Good luck Dave

Hi V Welcome to the Forum Not heard of this before but I would interpret this as a Driveline/Transmission Fault As your car is still under Warranty get it to a Dealer it could be a sensor fault but if it is a transmission fault such as low fluid or overheating you could cause damage. Dave

Morning Daren I have used a long pry bar to lock and hold the Prop while loosening the lock nuts (last one I did they were incredibly tight) Jobs a bit of a faff until it is on the bench Dave

You will be our "Go To Man" to interpret BMW speak into English 🤣 I would be tempted to just source the lot hoses clips everything then you will know everything is right. Don't forget BMW have a Classic Section and are often helpful on prices for classics My old Boss used to run V8 SD1's in the late 70's early 80's Dave

Morning Paul Have you tried looking at other sites like www.pelicanparts.com check their "Articles" section they have some great how too's with pictures I am assuming that you are trying to repair/replace a problematic fuel system here. In 1986 I was in a Sierra Cosworth so not in Beeemers, got my first BMW in 2002 a 4.4 X5. That was swapped for another X5 a 4.6is in 2004 However I would get part numbers then google them for Cost/Supply information so replacement can be done. The absorber may be there to take pulses out of the fuel delivery (only guessing here) BMW put it there for a reason and gave it a name they understood even if we don't 😁 Dave

Morning Mehmet Reading your post in a little over 5 years and around 44k miles you have spent £3000 on Tyres and Brakes. Even at Dealer prices that sounds high, unless of course that is two sets of tyres and a complete Brakes change (Discs and Pads) Wear items driving style will have a marked effect. Lesson don't buy tyres and Brakes at the Dealers find a good independent garage and tyre specialist. Service items oil, filters, spark Plugs wipers and battery. Again reading your post £1860 over 44k/5years around £380 per year (again at Dealer prices) Now the Biggie, £9000 on repairs. A/C compressor, evaporator, expansion valve, radiator tank, driveshaft flex joint, valve cover gasket, alternator, axle boots, motor mounts, oil filter housing, coolant tank, high pressure fuel pump. There are a few Items I would accept such as Axel Boots things wear and perish, oil filter housing (BMW use plastic filter housings and they can split/crack) Valve cover gaskets leak The remainder looks like you had the complete AC/Cooling system replaced at dealer costs £££ The high pressure fuel pump ?? Why Bottom line having had those items replaced I would expect that they last the life of the car so no I wouldn't be expecting to spend that again My E53 X5 4.6is has 164000 miles on the clock, and is semi retired now to keep miles down my E70 X5 125000 miles and is a daily driver I think in your situation I would keep the car and get my moneys worth, but then I understand my cars and am capable of carrying out most jobs myself. You seem to be reliant on Dealership and Specialists neither one is cheap also remember how dealers train the Technicians (who often become Specialists) they do not repair anything they replace parts at the customers cost?? If you were to trade the car or even go to another Make would things be any better ?? Good luck with making a decision Dave

Don't despair I changed the DPF exhaust clamp on my X5 3.0d last year Genuine replacement was £22 fitting took me 1/2 hour and I am old and not as bendy as I used to be 🤣 Any Exhaust specialist should be able to help even if it is a complete replacement flexi section Dave

Afternoon Paul Welcome to the Forum Take a look at www.realoem.com it is an online parts list as used by BMW Dealers Either search manually or put your Vin number into the search box. It will bring up your model then search the relevant sections the small exploded drawings will help identify the parts and you will have the Part Number for ordering a replacement. Also if you double click the part number you will see a list of alternates if available plus any other models they were used on Good luck Dave

Morning Bob Welcome to the Forum Ouch, I would begin by checking www.realoem.com (if you don't know about it already it is an online BMW parts list as used by dealers) put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model then search for what you need. Once you have the part number then Google the part to get the best price/delivery I hope this helps Dave

Morning Kevin Welcome to the Forum No an Exhaust smell in the cabin is just not right You say the EGR cooler was replaced at a BMW Dealer do you know if this was a Recall or Warranty work ? I have read of issues where the EGR to exhaust gasket was missed it isn't difficult to check yourself if you are that way inclined (Picture Attached) if not phone a friend 😅 the gasket (compression type) should go between the shiny bit on the right and the rusty bit on the left. I hope this helps Dave PS The picture shows one with the gasket missing

Morning Jon Sounds like you have chased this around for awhile, have you checked the Throttle body and Throttle position sensor and loom ? Also check carefully the loom on the engine I have seen an issue caused by cracked insulation causing an intermittent short to earth. I guess you are aware of www.realoem.com Check the engine earth strap and it's connections engine mount to chassis rail seen a couple that needed replacing. Also in the engine bay there are 2 or 3 from memory earth multi-points worth checking they are clean and remount using an electrical contact paste. Last not sure what Diagnostic your using But PA Soft BMW 1.4.0 is perfect for your car just need a Laptop to set it up it will give Dealer level access Good Luck Dave