Greydog

Morning Steve Welcome to the Forum Just check on www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model then look for what you need probably front axel section. Double click the part number and if the were any alternates it will show a list. Take care as there could be a few ratio choices 3.73-1 3.08-1 The next challenge will be getting your hands on one at a reasonable price BMW tend to only sup[y exchange units at 4 figure sums plus fitting. So check out the specialist Dismantlers Dave

I assume your talking about the gearbox support bracket I have changed mine as the original was really rusty mine took less than an hour to remove and replace. Once all the bolts where out from memory 5 then the long one I put a small jack under the transfer case to take the weight and raise/lower it to help get the long bolt back in when putting it back. Check to make sure you have all the fasteners out there are a couple of Videos on You tube Dave

Hi Have you checked realoem for clues ? With the E70 there is a single fixing on the inner boot unit then it is freed from the seal and pushed towards the boot edge/lip and it unhooks. It took a bit of pressure to get mine to release from the seal, The unit on the wing (on my E70) has 2 mounting studs again it took some pressure to release it from the old seal. I assume yours is a similar arrangement I have since thought maybe use a heat gun to soften the seals ? Maybe Dave

Morning Paul Most of your fault codes are linked to the Transfer case so will probably reset and return if the Transfer fault isn't fixed. My guess (and it is a guess) would be the servo motor didn't like being dunked and is dead. Or the transfer case gears have stripped A complete servo motor is around £80, or a set of nylon gears around £20 as you already have the covers off I would pull the Servo Motor and test it and check the gears Dave

G'day Brandon Welcome to the Forum Even though the chain was changed did they change the tensioner and guides quite probably not. The chain tensioner uses spring tension at cold start and then is oil pressure assisted. After a period of time the spring (as they all do) looses a bit of tension. So I would start with looking at changing the Tensioner. It is buried at the drivers side rear of the engine but not difficult to do there are several videos on the Net to help. Hope this helps Dave

🤣🤣🤣 Wish I could remember that far back 🤣

Morning Craig Check the rear lamp seals and the rubber boot seal then make sure all the floor drains are clear they are meant to be letting water out not keeping it in 😅 As Stu says check all the hoses including the heater feed and control valve. not difficult when you have fixed the leak make sure to fill with the correct coolant/anti-freeze. Check the internet for advice on bleeding the whole system to get rid of airlocks Dave

These days my personal choice Android Auto purely for the Flexibility it gives Dave

Happy Birthday and like most 21 year olds it's never given you a sleepless night 🤣🤣 Enjoy Stu

You can't seriously ask us to make a decision on a description ??? To Many things have an effect on a cars condition and reliability, especially the driver Dave

Morning Craig A few things First when you charge or Jump a BMW make sure it is at the charge points under the bonnet or remove the battery from the car if you don't you can cause damage. Your battery is dead I am afraid 9-10v after charging a healthy battery should show 12.5 to 12.8v around 14v + with engine running. It is that time of year mine died yesterday morning 🤔 Dave

HI Simon Welcome to the Forum There are a few "How to Videos" on You tube do an Internet search and you should find what you need. Dave

When I replaced the seals on the E70 I brought from BMW 4 seals around £40 from memory. I also needed an inner light unit as the nearside had a split and was half full of water 😅 and still working ??? Dave

Morning Julian The straight six engine is a really tough unit and the Ci3.0 and 335i are in many ways the same unit, service history is important but both cars will be of an age when Extended service intervals became common (not just by BMW) I have never been a fan of these extended services I still change oil and filters annually (around 7k in my case) If the engine is smooth and quiet and obviously the gearbox and drive train should be the same. Suspension should good with no creaks or groans rattles or knocks. Tyres should be good with even wear The Ci will give around 220/230 hp the 335 around 300/315 hp Remember that any Forum you will generally see the warts and all what ever the decision for what ever you buy I hope you Enjoy it Dave

You need diagnostics, incorrect battery charging can cause over charging and damage to the Alternator as well as control units The beeping could well be the alarm which has an internal battery though I have not come across this before. A healthy battery will show 12.5 to 12.8v when charging around 14 to 14.2v Have you checked all the fuses Dave

Morning Rod Everything BMW starts at 5k because someone has to pay for the free coffee 🤣🤣 Remember guys BMW do not make Turbo's they buy them in. They like to try to convince their customers that theirs are "special" by charging a special price. I brought my E70 3.0d cheap (really cheap) as it had a Turbo issue and the quote from BMW scared the daylights out of the owner who sold it "spares or repairs, lucky me. I brought an exchange turbo from Turbo Solutions who remanufacture them, cost with all hoses and gaskets £400 . All stripped and fitted in my home garage. My advice stay well away from BMW go to a Turbo Specialist Dave

Hi Julian Welcome (almost) to the Forum Reading your post while your attracted to the E46 330Ci I think you are leaning towards the 335i The convenience of the Hard top convertible and the extra power, you would always be asking the what if question? The E46 model was in production from 1998 until 2018 (in certain Markets) The E93 2005 until 2010 the E93 LCI 2008 until 2013 as far as I am aware there was never an LCI version of the E46 What ever your choice ENJOT Dave

Morning Sergey Welcome to the Forum First did you purchase your X3 from a BMW Dealer ? If so then I would be talking to the Sale Manager and tell him that as it is you find it unacceptable on what is almost a new car and ask for him to propose how to get it fixed. Rattles can be a pain to find but they should be more helpful if it is still there Good Luck Dave

Morning Bmw Welcome to the Forum The turbines inside a Turbo spin at around 100,000rpm+ so not unusual to hear a slight whine. Make sure all boost hoses are tight no leaks at 30k I would expect your car to have had at least 1 service hopefully more. Personally I am not a fan of extended service intervals and service mine every year regardless (around 5k these days) clean oil always helps. Dave

Morning Device Welcome to the Forum First the Drivers door window control is the master control and it sounds as though water is getting in. The switch is an easy change but you need to find the source of the leak to prevent it happening again. The roof light could be a broken wire where the door loom enters the car check it carefully Dave

Morning Edwin Welcome to the Forum Sorry Edwin I have no knowledge of the i3 so can only offer that there is an emergency boot release on all other BMW's as a way in, your hand book should help. If all fuses are OK then you need help from a specialist or BMW I am afraid Dave

Morning Charlie Welcome to the Forum Sounds as though your friend has blown the Diff or a Drive shaft possibly the Prop shaft Not sure what your referring to with "a Pull" if he was trying to tow another car dropping the clutch is the last thing to do as the snatch it caused he could cause serious damage to both cars. But he knows that now!! if it is his Diff it will be expensive as BMW only supply them exchange so even the second hand market charges a premium Dave

Hi Craig As its been off the road and recognising your not mechanically minded (Yet) I would indeed put it in for a service and ask them to give it a pre-MOT inspection so things underneath will get looked at, such as suspension and any chassis issues that may be there and hidden from view. You will need a trusted Independent Garage or perhaps BMW Specialist to help with that There is a Register of BMW Specialists so an Internet search should help you find one within a reasonable distance. Same applies for BMW Specialist Dismantlers there are several so an Internet search should provide you with a list. Use www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model. Then search the trim section it always helps if you have Part Numbers it will also give you a list of any fixings and fasteners I keep a box of spares as plastic clips are easy to break. Once you have the information hunt for best prices with the Dismantlers, don't dismiss BMW they have some good deals on Classic's Good Luck Dave

Morning Craig Welcome to the Forum The BMW straight 6 engine is one of the worlds great engines and capable of Star Ship Enterprise mileages, they are also plentiful so unless originality is high on your list easily changed. The drive train is also tough but often not serviced any where near their requirements so Diff prop and Gearbox will need TLC often first. Suspension bushes will be tired so plan a full refurb. If you are not aware www.realoem.com will help with Part numbers and the small exploded drawings help with how stuff fits. Another useful site is www.pelicanparts.com an American site that has some really great "How To's" with pictures. If you don't have Diagnostic's BMW 1.4.0 is still cheap and will give dealer level access for finding and sorting issues. Hope this helps Dave

Try www.realoem.com put the last 7 Digits of your Vin into the search box. That will bring up your model then search the Trim Section Dave