Greydog

Morning Junior Welcome to the Forum Without us being able to hear the noise or the area of the engine it is coming from your asking an impossible question. Here are a few thoughts, first are you absolutely sure the ticking started after the bump start or was that when it was first noticed? 1. Gearbox When the clutch is depressed the gearbox is not rotating so does that stop the ticking? 2. You say Engine earth strap was corroded there are more than one make sure that they are all good 3. With an engine with high mileage or poorly maintained engine it could be lifter tick or a sticking lifter. 4. Again at higher mileages it could be Injector tick 5. Has the Vanos system been checked 6. Are all belts and tensioners in good order 7. Exhaust manifold and fixings in good order no cracks or leaks Looks like that should take care of your weekend 😅 do you have a mechanics stethoscope if not buy one. Dave

Morning Robert Welcome to the Forum That doesn't make any sort of sense (apart from to the Dealers bank balance) Unless the deal offers more than the basic plan I would want both itemised on paper so you can see any extra's and their cost. Tasty car by the way Dave

Morning Markus Welcome to the Forum All clean underneath nothing jamming it ? What is the Error Code ? Have you checked it online ? I would check all wiring and connections, fuses and relays, then make sure that the mechanism isn't blocked or jammed then clear the code and see if it works. A diagnostic session will help if your stuck Dave

Hi Is the car cool when the AC is on ? The fan only runs to provide additional air flow through the condenser when required, standing traffic or high engine temp. So as I understand it if you raise cabin temp to 28 does the AC compressor trip out let it stabilise then reduce to 17 the AC compressor should run and cooling in the cabin begin, the fan should only run if temp/pressure in the condenser is high. As the fan only runs as required and you are seeing a change in PWM signal I am not sure you have an issue Dave

Morning Billy Welcome to the Forum Obvious questions first a good ECU remap can give a good increase in power, has that been tried? The next obvious is to think of a Turbo from a 2.0d but a bigger turbo won't do much good without bigger injectors and intercooler plus another Remap. More boost needs more fuel and better charge cooling. Don't forget Brakes, Suspension, Steering and Tyres. No point in going fast if you cant stop Check www.realoem.com for part numbers so you know stuff will fit. When spending your hard earned cost things carefully as when you add up the cost it may be cheaper to just trade in your car for one with the performance you want. Good Luck Dave

Get the Heater/AC control panel checked they are a possible fail point and an easy change. Does the fan run at all? Dave

Morning Sam Welcome to the Forum I have had similar with the 3 X5's I have owned, 2 x E53 and the current E70 The first a 2002 E53 sadly got squashed by a falling tree before any fix, it's replacement E53 2003 went through a similar process to you in the end I turned off the warnings. But I can't stand having things that should work but don't, so I began my own investigation (I have a full diagnostic suite on a laptop) It was while checking something else that I found a poor earth connection in the boot (BMW use common earth points plus earth switching) I cleaned and remounted the earth comb and a couple of systems suddenly came back to life. I checked the TPMS and guess what that worked as well I think a lot of Garages are lazy and just assume it's a sensor issue. I still have the E53 but the Daily driver is now a 2009 E70 TPMS started playing up I found 2 faulty sensors (but cleaned the earth points as a check) I brought new sensors from Amazon less than half OEM cost and they worked straight out of the box biggest faff is tyres off to change them (wait for tyre change if possible) The E53 now has the same sensors, all work and no issues for 3 years now (stupid boy tempting fate) Dave

Morning Przemyslaw Welcome to the Forum The Fan receives signal information from several sources "engine temp" "outside temp" " cabin settings" " AC gas pressure" a full diagnostic session will help. Make sure the system is fully charged an AC specialist or Garage will have a machine that checks for leaks before charging then if the problem persists get a diagnostic done. All AC systems lose a little each year so over time will need recharging. Also if the AC isnt run regularly the seals can dry out allowing gas loss. Dave

Morning The fat one looks like a Fibre Optic feed or an antenna the other connector with multi cables power and control would be a guess Is the audio/nav system OEM ? it could be part of the Harmon Cardon system if its been changed or part of that system that hasn't been installed "yet" Check one of the Vin Decoder sites to see what equipment/systems were originally installed See if you can find a wiring diagram on line that may help, or if you can find someone a member local to you with BMW INPA/ISTA who can help it will have wiring and workshop data as part of the diagnostic program. BMW or a BMW specialist garage will charge £££ a member here may help for some beer tokens 😁 Dave

Morning Joseph The sensor in your mirror is the auto dimming/dip so obviously if it's covered it wont work. But as your covering it with another mirror will that matter to you. As for the choice sorry cant help as I have no experience of any of them I guess you just need to do as much research as possible and make your choice Let us know what you get and if its any good Dave

Hi James Good information but to a 2 year old post I am afraid

Morning Andrea Remember the original post is 2 years old so the poster may have moved on. Also not sure if you need to check your model F25 is second generation X3 E71 is X6 Dave

Morning Roy Welcome to the Forum Looks really sweet only one thing to say ENJOY Dave

Save your pennies 😅

Hi George As with most stuff there are a lot of cheap copies out there stay away from them as you will get little or no support if it doesn't work. Just took a quick look at Ebay there is a Laptop with the software already loaded and the correct ODB cables for £185 looks OK to me. If your pretty good with software you can buy the software and leads for less but it sometimes can be fiddly setting it up. Google should be able to help you with test parameters for the sensor, check the inlet side for air/vacuum leaks. A split hose or Vac line can often fool people into swapping sensors. Dave

Morning George Welcome to the Forum Before replacing parts check the loom to the NOX sensor and its connectors make sure continuity is there (even with a wiggle) clean the connectors and pins (good Electrical contact cleaner ) if the fault persists then a diagnostic scan is needed. Remember a fault code is often the symptom not always the cause. The very best Diagnostic is BMW ISTA/INPA this will give Dealer level access and has Work shop and technical information. There are now several others by Foxwell or iCarsoft so really it is what your comfortable spending. Use www.realoem.com if you are not aware is a BMW online Parts List put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your Model, then search the sections for what you want the small exploded drawings will help in locating where stuff fits. ENJOY Your Beemer good luck with sorting the rough running Dave

Answered else where ?

Morning Simon Check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model. Then search the sections Trim etc for what you want. Once you have part numbers search using the part number on Google for suppliers and costs, don't forget BMW your laocalm Dealer is often not as dear as people assume. Dave

Morning Mallory The best test is sit in there while being driven the Li should have around 5" more leg room. If space is your thing try a MB R class I have a friend who has one as they were designed for the American market rear seats are able to cope with, er Ample American cousins. Dave

Morning Steve Welcome to the Forum Enjoy your Beemer Dave

Morning Ralph Welcome to the Forum Not sure what the unit is but looks like it needs checking and replacing a diagnostic scan wouldn't go amiss to see if any thing else needs attention Dave

Hi Luke As the great Carol Shelby once said " Speed costs money, How fast can you afford to go " To have it done properly would need at the least DPF delete programming at best the delete plus an ECU remap. Don't forget suspension steering and brakes, not good if you have loads of power and all it achieves is a low 0 to impact time because you cant stop in time 😉 Or save your pennies and swap the car for a 330d a friend of one of our sons runs a 330d touring with uprated suspension and brakes it has a dyno tested 360whp Good Luck Enjoy your Beemer Dave

Morning Luke Welcome to the Forum Check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model. Then look at the exhaust section it will tell you exactly what is fitted to your car. Now your midlife crisis !! Is It more power? Or more noise 😁 there are lots of other ways to achieve them. A DPF or Cat delete (knock through) can end in an MOT fail Dave

Morning Devin I believe if you change the ECU you will need matching EWS Drivers door lock Ignition barrel and Keys so quite a bit of work. Much better to get your ECU tested then repaired if you can or if it even needs it. So back to your original post P0102 = Mass Air Flow sensor Fault --- Have you tested the Mass Air Flow sensor P1417 = A throttle Harness issue --- Have you checked the harness and connectors for continuity P1553 = Is a Vanos Code when was the car serviced --- After your rebuild have you tested the Vanos solenoids P110D = Another Throttle position sensor issue --- Has the Throttle Body been tested P2120 + Throttle Position Sensor (accelerator pedal} --- Has it been tested or changed I would start with testing, checking or changing to get rid of the fault codes Dave

Morning Simon Welcome to the Forum Enjoy your Beemer It is a very straight forward process with a lot of choice of screens available. There are several How Too Videos as well. I fitted an Android Screen in my X5 when the OEM screen started to malfunction it gives Carplay and Android Auto plus of course all the App functions you want. While retaining all the OEM functions Dave