Greydog

Hi Devin Welcome to the Forum The codes you show are Generic codes P0102 = Mass AirFlow sensor Fault P1417 = A throttle Harness issue P1553 = Is a Vanos Code when was the car serviced P110D = Another Throttle position sensor issue P2120 + Throttle Position Sensor (accelerator pedal} I would start with a careful check of the engine bay harness (check if any little critters have been visiting) also check the Earth points Good luck Dave

Morning Craig Welcome to the Forum Have you checked the Brake Reaction struts if the bushes are wearing that can cause vibration when slowing How many miles has the car covered I have seen bushes on the way out at around 60 to 70k Dave

Ouch !! BMW are getting very cheeky as apparently in the USA there are no subscriptions for Connected Drive Spoke with my brother inlaw apparently he no longer uses Connected drive as he felt it offered so little value for money. With my X5 I changed the screen to an Android based unit so I have Android Mirroring for my phone and my wife has Car Play if she wants it when she drives the X5. Who needs Alexa in the car anyway 😂 May be if enough rebel BMW will relent Dave

Morning Paul Welcome to the Forum BMW advise careful inspection of the alternator to determine the type and supplier meaning they used several suppliers ? not helpful If you are not aware check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model. If you double click the alternator part number it will give a list of alternate models it was used on that may help in sourcing parts. Denso are common on Nissan, Toyota, Honda and Subaru so I would have thought that someone in SA would have rebuilt a few. Have you tried Denso Direct ? Or a replacement from a specialist Dismantler there are several in the UK. Another possibility could be a specialist repair company like ECU Testing or Cartronix (both UK) that rebuild stuff. Good Luck Dave

Hi Ian I am not a connected drive user but my brother inlaw has it in his 5 series, as I understand when the car is new you get 3 months free then through the connected drive store you can purchase the functions you want to continue to use. I changed my screen to an Android unit and use Android mirroring Good luck and enjoy your Beemer Dave

Morning Ian Is the Connected Drive subscription is up to date ? Next as Matt has said make sure the car can get a clear signal. Dave

If your paying for the work I would say that is a fair price but get references and always remeber the old saying "If you think Professional is expensive wait until you have to pay for Amateur" Good luck with the work and remember to run it in with care Dave

Morning Rick Welcome to the Forum Well some one has to pay for the free coffee 😅 At the bottom of this issue is the fact that BMW do not repair anything? They replace components at their client/customers expense (they are not alone in this approach). If examined your ECU will have a corroded pin or a dry joint or two due to the failure they also want to change any component that communicates through the ECU like your ISM. Early cars used to suffer FCM (footwell control module) failures BMW's answer New FCM and it can only be done by BMW as it has to be programmed to the car/chassis. There is no "programming" as such it is registering the module to the chassis to avoid getting a "tamper dot" beside the mileage figure. As you have already seen it isn't that hard to do if you have the right tools. First source a matching set of ECU and ISM (used to be ECU and EWS) from a BMW Dismantler use www.realoem.com to get the correct part numbers for your model. Also buy a copy of BMW ISTA/INPA (preferred) diagnostic suit or a good BMW capable diagnostic that will allow program/registration changes. With ISTA/INPA (the one I use) you can interrogate individual modules so first make a note of any information you can take from your existing ECU/ISM modules Serial numbers/chassis/ Vin numbers and mileage, BMW store mileage in 2 or 3 places/modules and they need to match (anti theft) Then it is a case of fitting the replacement parts and editing the Chassis information and mileage. Remember BMW do not make these parts they buy them in and rely on the fact that the vast majority of customers are frightened to even lift the Bonnet (oops Hood) educated to only respond to instructions on the cars screen 🤣 Once you have the diagnostics there is so much more you can learn about your car ISTA is complete with TIS (technical information system) and WIS (Workshop information system) Good Luck Dave

Morning Ashley Welcome to the Forum OUCH !! what happened ? If you talk to a BMW main Dealer they will be talking about New Engine (they dont repair anything just replace stuff. You will get the same from some BMW specialists. A rebuild using genuine parts can be costly depending on what is replaced, when I rebuilt my 4.6is engine parts alone came to £3k (OK it is Alpina based and all parts were through BMW) if I had paid a garage I guess the bill would have been about £6k with labour So how much are you able/capable of doing yourself As for sourcing an engine there are a few BMW specialist dismantlers/recyclers near Manchester (google will help) there is also a register of BMW Specialists talk to a few of them to test what hourly rates would be involved if you need their help. I would guess that a replacement would be between £1500 and £3 or 4000 depending on what's included. Don't just buy an engine and put it in budget for sensible things to be replaced such as. Timing chain guides and tensioners oil pump and drive water pump (electric on your car and a BEECH of a job with the engine in the car) Also which engine single or twin turbo as you may also need the DME Good Luck Dave

Oh dear "return the car" that doesn't sound good what's wrong? I thought all Idrive after 2015/16 were set up for car play has she gone through the media set up steps? Or maybe she won't bother if she is trying to return it? Dave

Hi Micky Welcome to the Forum If not there are loads on the usual Auction Sites I have an Erisin android unit in my E70 just plug and play Dave

Hi Shares Welcome to the Forum You should be able to activate it through the Idrive system Try this 1. Bluetooth and have to be turned ON on your iPhone. 2. In the iDrive 7 menu, press or navigate to COM – Mobile Devices – New Device – Phone calls and audio 3. On your iPhone’s Bluetooth menu, select the BMW entry. ... 4. Confirm that the PIN displayed on the iDrive 7 and iPhone match, then select YES. Dave

Hi Ian Worth a try if it's not to expensive, the E53 you could add an accessory socket/USB but the connector was hidden taped up in the loom behind the monitor/screen. BMW Dealers used to love charging folks for adding an accessory port 😅 Dave

Hi Ian Just had a friend of our son here he has a 2010 120d so I asked him. His car unlocks with the top button locks with the centre button the tailgate release button only works after the car is unlocked ??? So unlock then push the tailgate release and his pops open. Try it I wonder what genius thought that up Dave

Morning Mark Welcome to the Forum Get yourself a Copy of ISTA/INPA for self diagnostics and turning on functions and registering new items it will save you a in the long run. ENJOY your New Beemer Dave

Morning Ivor Could be a number of things from a sensor to a damaged part you really need a Diagnostic session using a BMW capable system. So a BMW Dealer (£££) a BMW Specialist (££) or good Independent Garage (££) BMW Dealers will be more expensive on an Hourly rate (someone has to pay for the free coffee 😅) BMW Specialists tend to be less expensive as do good Independents, there is a Register of BMW Specialists so you should find one near you or possibly a member near you who has the kit at home and is willing to help. Good Luck Dave

Morning Ian Everything I am reading indicates that either the function is disabled in the cars programming or, so here is the daft question is the Valet switch on? You should find it in the glove box or in the armrest Dave

Morning Ian Welcome to the Forum Wow Chalk and Cheese with the cars there. Enjoy your new Beemer As far as Android I would try the software upgrade first just on the grounds of cost The additional USB port should be OK but may need to be registered through the diagnostics do they say it's plug and play? Dave

Hi Ian Still doesn't make sense with my X5's I have 3 button fobs and the top button locks/unlocks everything the lower button unlocks the tailgate. So I don't understand why yours doesn't do the same, puzzle. Do you have 2 Key Fobs have you tried both? I will check in my diagnostic program to see if there are any settings that can be turned on or off from there Dave

Glad your back on the road Rod don't forget make sure the tyres are all correct and have even wear Now you can enjoy your Beemer Dave

Hi Ian With YouTube I meant Key Fob programming not just the boot opening Surely if you can program Comfort Opening settings through the Idrive and Fob there must be something there? As you say it doesn't make sense As an example my brother inlaw has disabled Comfort access after seeing a video of car thieves using that as a method of entry to a car Dave

Hi Ian I didn't think that was supposed to happen just about every BMW I have seen they work the same, Top button can be set to either unlock just the drivers door (single press) all doors and boot/trunk (double press) Centre Logo lock button Bottom button boot/trunk release First I wonder if someone has left settings in the idrive Drivers profile that are the culprit if you haven't set it yet worth a look? There are several good tutorials on You Tube so Google and check Good Luck Dave

Afternoon Ian Welcome to the Forum ENJOY your new car Dave

Morning Roger By the look of the pictures definitely not OEM the fact that moving the relay effects things would indicate that there is a bad connection that makes when you move it. As you know it is in the starter circuit it could be a home made anti theft ? Maybe a hunt for a wiring diagram to help identify the circuit it is cut into, probably one of the DME sensor lines. I will search TIS to see if I can find anything Dave

A bit of a pain Lewis but pulling fuses one by one will find it, the pain is you need the car asleep each time a fuse is pulled then check current draw. With one of the AMG's I owned the Voltage Regulator was at fault so worth getting that checked, with the AMG output from the alternator was fine but internally a diode had failed allowing current to bleed back. BMW are fond of earth switching so also worth checking the earth points for continuity. If there are no after market toys plugged in dash cam chargers etc then its a one at a time task Good Luck finding it Dave