Greydog

Morning Joe When was the car last serviced ? Did they change drive belts ? At higher mileages I would change change Belts and Tensioners, plus while your in there with no belt in the way check the alternator water pump and aircon pump pulleys Certainly sounds like a pulley Good Luck Dave

Known d*ck Bennets for years since WSR were in Addlestone, looks as though you had a great day always take the pleasure before any possible pain 🤣🤣 Good Luck Dave

High Stev Welcome to the Forum No one can diagnose a problem without investigating it, It could be anything from water ingress to a faulty unit I am afraid the only way is check and test all connections Dave

All I can offer Andy is really search the Market. Loyalty is gone and I have to do it each year as they hike the premium. I have the advantage of Age on my side and live in a Low Crime area I insure 3 cars 2 X5's and a Subaru Outback wit a 400+hp engine upgrade the Subaru is the cheapest to insure ?? Good Hunting Dave

Welcome to the Forum Rick Dave

Good Morning Renine You can fit Non Run flat tyres to run flat rims just make sure they are the best you can afford as the tyre is what stops starts and steers you. If your car is an AWD X1 change all 4 tyres together to avoid risk of Drive train or Transfer Case damage. A good tyre centre will advise, but take care, many will suck their teeth and tell you only BMW approved tyres are safe which is of course untrue. Where BMW (and other manufacturers) Fit staggered wheels (wider rear) matching front and rear tyre rolling radius is vital to avoid damage to the drive train. BMW (and others) brokered deals with tyre manufacturers to ensure staggered tyre sets were guaranteed within a tolerance to protect the transmission. Many other tyre producers realised and of course produce tyres that are suitable. If your car is S drive it will be Front wheel drive and not affected by the complication of staggered tyres, if your car is Xdrive (AWD) and the wheels are same size front and rear the risk is greatly reduced particularly where all 4 tyres are changed together. Both my X5 cars have staggered wheel sets I have no spare wheels just an electric tyre pump and a can of tyre sealant. I am happy to say that even with the state of our roads in the last 10 years I haven't suffered a puncture (stupid thing to boast) As for an actual spare check the auction sites and there is a list of BMW specialist dismantlers that may help Good luck Dave

Morning Dezron Welcome to the Forum Two questions first (1) how many miles has the car covered ? (2) Has the transmission ever been serviced ? As a starting point your Transmission is, or should be a ZF GA6HP19Z which should be serviced at 80k to 100k km dependant on climate/use. The light indicates a fault, the transmission is in limp mode, which could be caused by anything from a failed solenoid, low fluid levels (any sign of leaks) or just plain dirty fluid and clogged filter. Find a ZF transmission specialist they will be able to run a diagnostic on the box and tell you what it is. Everyone services the engine religiously but the gearbox is all to often ignored, yet it can cost easily as much as an engine to fix, some times more !! Good Luck Dave

morning Steve I thought I had answered this but can't any see it anywhere !! Must be getting old 😅 If the issue is surfacing on turning I would check the engine bay very carefully for chaffed wires in the engine looms to the Coil Packs and Injectors. Also check the engine mounts and earth straps Good Luck Dave

Moring Geoff Welcome Back Car sounds really tasty ENJOY when you get it Dave

Hi Mark I think the fact that one of his customers has decided not to as it isn't Lane Assist and it bothered them tells you it probably would throw a code. Having said that I guess you could turn off Lane Assist or code it out My feeling is anything fitted should work if not it could have an effect on any Sale/Trade In price Just my thoughts Dave

Morning Chris I use the one from Halfords a tip I was given years ago was Lemon Juice I have used it a couple of times on really heavily rusted items, if left for a day it really breaks down the heavy rust then back to the penetrating fluid. In really extreme cases a bit of heat helps. Dave

Hi Chris As your doing the suspension as well get a big can of Penetrating fluid and soak the mounting nuts a few times Take a look at www.pelicanparts.com choose BMW then DIY Articles it is an American sight but apart from the steering being on the wrong side the cars are the same. Their DIY How To's are great with pictures and tip's I am sure you will find it useful. Dave

Hi Steve If it looses power when turning right (unless you live where they have those multi go where you want insane roundabouts) I would look in the engine bay, the loom to the Coil Packs also the Loom to the injectors Also check the engine mounts and earth straps. My guess would be something is chaffed or loose and causing the misfire when turning. Try rocking the engine to the left when stationary, try to replicate it. Not heard of an ABS fault causing a misfire yet 😂 Also check the vacuum lines and all air hoses for cracks and leaks Good Luck Dave

Just did a Realoem search and worked out why you had confusion your first picture was Value Line showing Front Part number 339270 Rear Part number 339290 The second Rear axel only picture is BMW not their so called Value Line Part number 763043 Glad you are sorted I don't know how good your DIY skills are but if this helps Tools apart from a socket set and allen keys plus a soft faced mallet make sure you have brake cleaner spray a couple of wire brushes and I also have a small brass bristled brush plus a tube of Copper grease Good luck I hope cleaning and greasing sort it out with nothing else needing replacing Just took a look at your last post as you say half BMW's Quote plus it includes the suspension kit when theirs was Brakes only!! Result As an aside Meyle are still I believe OEM suppliers 😅 Now we know what you will be doing at the weekend 🤣 still could be worse you could have the grass to cut as well Dave

Hi Anthony Welcome to the Forum The TPMS for your car has sensors mounted in each wheel which have a small battery in them they tend to have a life of around 5 to 10 years in my experience. There is a Transponder Antenna in each wheel arch that sends the signal via Canbus to the TPMS Unit which could be in the boot or behind the dash and rarely seem to give problems. A diagnostic session would tell you what the fault is, I have seen several where one or more Tyre pressure units have failed after awhile the TPMS shuts down, the owner being convinced it has failed. The pain is to change the wheel sensors is a tyre off job so if you don't need tyres it could be cheaper to check with diagnostics and wait for tyre change. Dave

Morning Chris Oh dear !! First you know know how much you can save as you have BMW OEM prices 😁 Looking at your pictures (dangerous but I assume the first 2 pics are front next 2 rear) First calliper's are sticking or pads jamming or a combination of both. So they need stripping and cleaning make sure the calliper is free on it's slide pins and that the piston is moving freely, make sure the calliper body is very clean and that pads fit and move easily in their seats. DONT operate the brakes without either a piston compression tool in place or pads and a disc. Part numbers I think you will find there are 2 disc sizes for the front of your car 310 x 24mm and 324 x 30mm which is why you have 2 part numbers for pads. Measure the disc if unsure. Rear pads you have 1 part number Now to the money saving part last year I changed Front and rear discs on a 535d touring for one of our sons friends, he brought a set of rear Discs pads and handbrake shoes for £110 and a set of Front discs 324 x 30mm with pads for £105 all from Ebay (just called him and asked) all fitted perfectly and work faultlessly. I used him as slave labour to do all the cleaning and scrubbing to get all the crud off then an easy Saturday morning stripping and fitting Dave

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I am with Mark here I use silicon spray at least once a year. I drop the window down and spray the window runners then spray onto a cloth to clean rubbers and seals to avoid overspray on paintwork. I also use it on suspension rubber parts whether it extends their life ? who knows but it keeps them looking clean and tidy must help at MOT time. Good Luck Dave

Morning Chris In Europe I believe ATE and Teves are mainly suppliers of ABS components so as long as they are working with no lights you should be OK 😁 Pads and Disc's I have always used Brembo brake parts on my cars but I have fitted other aftermarket parts for friends and family without any issues When you found the 2 part numbers on Realoem were they for for front and rear or both front? As there may be an M-sport version or HD brake version often measuring the disc is the best way Dave

I use stuff from Chemical Guys brought through Ebay Interior and Exterior but any good branded products will do to be fair. Just 20years of using it on many cars Enjoy Dave

Morning Steve Morning Stu Welcome to the Forum Steve Go to www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of the cars Vin into the search box it will bring up the exact model so then you will know for sure E46 or E90 I believe the engine is the same in both models N46 but due to emissions changes the Lambda sensors are different a look at the exhaust system may give some clues if you know what your looking for. If not stick with realoem then order using the part number that way you will get the correct ones for your car Good Luck Dave

Plus 1 for Stu's diagnosis also check the ride height sensors The suspension is self levelling under load the ride height has a +/- tolerance of 10mm From your description the suspension is either leaking or the control is draining the supply through the compressor (it has an exhaust) Once at ride height with no leaks the suspension compressor should be rarely heard, if there is a heavy load in the boot it should pump up to level the ride when the load is reduced the exhaust allows air out to maintain ride height/quality. The airbag/spring with age can become porous where it rolls on its self in use check it carefully with soapy water it doesn't take much of a leak to let things sag. Changing them is a straight forward DIY job Good Luck Dave

Morning Ron Welcome to the Forum First as far as I am aware the wiper motor is mounted to the scuttle accessed by removing trim in the engine bay. Before going to the complete strip down have you checked (A) the wiper arm mount and nut, and (B) the big nut (22mm or 24mm) that secures the wiper mechanism to the scuttle on that side just in case its loose. My guess is that will be the problem Check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model, then search the trim or body sections for any help with how it fits Another source would be You-tube there are some good how to's on there though take care some are not so good Good Luck Dave

Morning Steve Welcome to the Forum ENJOY Dave PS Cleaned it yet 🤣

Hi Harinder Welcome to the Forum The original post was by a member in Ireland I believe who manufactured his own and a few for other members I don't think they were ever commercially available You could try a direct mail to the original poster but as the post is a few years old he may have moved on Good Luck Dave