Greydog

Hi Thomas I replied to your Direct mail Both codes indicate a severely clogged/blocked DPF you need to get it professionally cleaned or replaced. Dave

Morning John Old Dealer trick disconnect the battery (Neg First) and leave it for at least 15mins that should clear any Fault codes that may be in the memory. Then carry out a reset of the tyre monitoring system. If the fault returns there is something not right with the system, is the RDC the correct one for the car? If it is then I can only think you need it registered to the chassis Dave

Morning Rod It helps if the box is cold as warm/hot fluid expands and you will need a catch tray for any dribbles (guess how I learned that) I let a little fluid out at the drain plug about half a litre tighten up then Dr Tranny in and top up. Then run the engine and go through the normal gearbox checks to get everything circulating. Good Luck Dave This the only additive (snake oil remedy) I have used that actually seems to work

Morning Mike Welcome to the Forum Nice car matey First when driving have you felt any vibration through the steering or car ? Any vibration under braking ? As far as your wheels go I have heard of and seen buckled wheels in several types but never without some evidence of severe kerbing or pothole damage I would check that the wheels are mounted correctly any crud on the face of the hub will cause the impression of buckling. I have also seen badly fitted tyres giving the impression of buckled wheels always accompanied by vibration. Dealers are just a Garage a posh expensive one but still a garage Wheels can be trued I would be inclined to talk to an Alloy wheels specialist if it really is buckling. Also talk to the original seller as they shouldn't have sold a car with that type of fault Good Luck Dave

Correct Adam, some folks touch the 2 disconnected leads together they say to discharge any static. Personally I have never done that so can't comment on if it works. After reconnecting and starting drive slowly forward going lock to lock to reset the steering angle sensor. Good Luck Dave

Hi John Welcome to the Forum When you installed the new RDC did you code it to the Chassis. Next have you cleared down all the Fault Codes as you are aware normally all tyres should be inflated then after driving the system recalibrates it's self It could be that one or more of the wheel sensors are not working correctly Dave

I don't think so the radio has its inbuilt memory otherwise dealers would be in a real mess I understand they are new discs and pads but are the sensors connected correctly? Try the battery disconnect first if the DTC fault comes back you will know Dave

Morning Adam First make sure the pad sensors are connected correctly, looks like you have a rear Fog lamp out as well. To reset try disconnecting the battery (Neg first) and leave it for 15mins then reconnect that should reset everything if it doesn't then those faults need further investigation. Dave

Morning Abraar Welcome to the Forum First do you have a second key to try? If that makes no difference then you clearly have faulty components a Scan with a BMW capable Diagnostic would give more accurate information. Simple things first swap the rear door window switch with the other side (it will plug in but wont fit in the door don't force it) if the window works you know it's the switch if not it seems you need to get a new lift mechanism. Your description would indicate a new Actuator needs fitting, last the Drivers door actuator needs testing as does the switch module. As said the help of a BMW specialist at least with the proper Diagnostic's would save a lot of time if you can't do it yourself Dave

Hi David As far as I am aware a good Car Detailer would prepare the paint properly before adding a ceramic coating. I do my own working panel by panel on cars I buy, good wash then cutting compound then clay bar to clean any residue always polishing by hand with soft clean micro fibre cloths, last for me is polish. It normally takes me a few days to get it done but it does get rid of the swirls Unfortunately I think you need advice from a good detailer Dave

Morning Graham Welcome to the Forum If you are not aware take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box and it will bring up your Model. Then search the sections for what you need, once you have your part number Google it for suppliers. Don't dismiss your BMW Dealer as many offer discounts on older models at really good prices Good Luck Dave

Morning Ian Welcome to the Forum Never come across this one before, clearly the Parking Sensors think your to close to an obstruction so they trigger the Brakes to protect you and the car. Not sure if you can adjust or turn off what BMW see as "Safety Systems" have you spoken to the Dealer Services Good Luck Dave

Before you do anything Double click the part number in realoem it should give you a list of (A) alternate part numbers/upgrades (B) a list of other models its used in Dave

Morning Skevos First action is disconnect the Battery while it is disconnected make sure it is fully charged and holding the charge, Do not reconnect the Battery with the charger attached. If you charge the Battery with it in the car only ever do it from the charging posts under the bonnet. A low or discharged Battery will throw all sorts of spurious codes. Disconnecting the Battery should clear all stored codes, All the codes reported are Generic codes you really need either BMW capable Reader or a Mechanic or Garage that has one (it really makes a difference) Both the codes you report indicate a timing/sensor issue either an open circuit (or unplugged) sensor back track over all work done checking correct installation and connections. I suspect the latest Faults are all related and magnified by a Low Battery voltage Dave

I spoke with him and he tells me the probability is the sensor has failed he also said they have records of connector damage/failure the only loom damage they have records of is rodent damage. He says check that the connector hasn't been changed before ( BMW supply replacements with 3 white wires ?) If its been changed check the colder connection. He says the dealerships use a repair connector with 3 white cables ?? (just to confuse the innocent) the wiring diagram shows its connections but doesn't help with its route He will send it tomorrow Dave

Morning Chloe Welcome to the Forum First are you sure it is the Gearbox not something loose like a heat shield if you can't get underneath to check then you will need the help of someone who can. If there is nothing loose rattling then it could be something to do with the Torque converter as the gearbox is not turning in neutral or park. Hope this helps Dave

Morning Well INPA not very helpful so reverting to an old friend in BMW see if he can get me a wiring diagram. I assume (always dangerous) that the sensor wiring will terminate at either the Junction Box module or the Footwell Module Dave

I will take a look at INPA and see what information I can find Just out with the dogs so it will be later Dave

Definitely seems your oil sensor needs checking, plus the loom for continuity My guess would be the sensor I have changed a few over the years not seen them causing those issues though. Dave

See my other answer to your earlier post Matt

Morning Matt Not a good thing to find water anywhere in the car, water in the boot is normally seals around the rear lights or the seals around the boot also worth checking sunroof drains. My bet would be on the rear light seals i have seen a couple of those. You can get new sealing sets online just make sure you clean any old stuff off first or they will leak again. Your CiC/CCC infotainment system is I believe in the dash and a single unit (check www.realoem.com) So 1st checks for me would be all the connectors and the fuse in the back of the CiC/CCC also check the Controller and its connections. Just get a set of trim removal tools so you don't damage/scratch any other bits of trim you should be able to find a removal Video on YouTube if you haven't done it before Good Luck fingers crossed it's simple fix, on the plus side you don't have to think about what to do with your Weekend 🤣 Dave

Morning George Welcome to the Forum It depends how good you are with the spanners I would think George, I can think of a few things which would make it difficult at best if not impossible. 1. Physically are they going to fit lots of measuring needed 2. Are the runners and seat frame compatible if not can they be swapped over 3. Is the electrical system compatible are the connectors the same type 4. Will the cars electronics accept the change? Can the car be programmed to accept the change. All things are possible good luck Dave

Hi Stuart If you are not aware check www.realoem.com look in the Classic section check other models with the same engine even larger capacity. Like all manufacturers BMW used parts across their range. Check 3 and 5 series models with the same engine type I would also check for any specialist repairers, in the UK we have a few companies who are really excellent at repairing/updating/upgrading many classic parts I guess you are already aware of www.pelicanparts.com and if you haven't already contact BMW direct they have a Classic Division Good Luck Great car Dave

Morning Stuart Welcome to the Forum A classic BMW owner Enjoy Dave

Morning joe At the battery connections check carefully the 2 small wires they get damaged easily. Then check the alternator is correct, I have seen similar problems with a neighbours 5 series he fitted a new alternator (alternator brought from GSF) he was assured it was correct for the car. With him I checked www.realoem.com got the correct Part Number and alternator size 120A, the one fitted was 150A. GSF were very good when asked they checked and confirmed the 150A was wrong swapped for a 120A and all his problems were gone. I had alternator/battery drain issues with one of my AMG's in the early 2000's Dealer fitted new Battery no change (under warranty fortunately) In the end I changed the Voltage regulator myself problem fixed. So check the Voltage Regulator as well Dave