Greydog

Morning Andy Welcome to the Forum First check the smell of the water as I have found the rear washer tube split above the B pillar then washer fluid ran down the B pillar every time the washer was used, strange the washer still worked just not as well as it should. If its that then you should smell washer fluid. Check sun roof drains they are regular culprits for leaks, also check the rear door drains and the membrane behind the door card water often runs down the glass and if the drain is blocked and it can get past the membrane by splits or it not being sealed properly it is scary just how much can come in. Good Luck with the hunt hope this helps Dave

I have BMW INPA/ISTA plus BMW 1.4.0 (for early models) so same level of access as the Dealers have. I have heard of Launch but not used it. Just an after thought have you checked the gearbox mount I have known a failed gearbox mount cause odd gearbox behaviour, seen it on 2 cars a 535d Touring and an X6, the X6 actually had a rusted mount?? Lets hope what ever it is it isnt a wallet buster Dave

Hi joe First when you checked the voltage was the car asleep (tell tale on the Gearchange gone out? I would open the bonnet but close the car and leave it for at least 15mins check the gearchange light is out. If the voltage is still low, 11.4v then I would first make sure no accessories are plugged into the Cigarette lighter sockets or power outlets. Then with the battery fully charged start pulling fuses one at a to find the drain. Good Hunting Dave

Morning David Welcome to the Forum Nice choice ENJOY Black is going to take some keeping clean 😂 Take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box yhen look at the wheels/tyres section it will give you a list of all OEM fitment for your model Good Luck Dave

When you get the scanner on the car check for Torque converter faults Ha Ha Dr Tranny sorry no house calls but it really does work one of our sons friends was quoted a new box in his ! series by BMW and like you a Tranny specialist offered to rebuild his box for a silly number. He asked me what I thought of Dr Tranny and I confess at that time I had never heard of it, his symptoms were harsh/hard changes up and down the box his car had covered 80k at the time. I plugged it in and could only find fault codes for the Torque converter and 2 solenoids, we changed the fluid and filter (no debris even the fluid was fairly clean) he tried it and still had the change issues put in the Dr Tranny and next day he had a big smile on his face reporting everything OK. November last year at 155k we changed the gearbox fluid and filter again and put in another tube of Dr Tranny. I have used it on several cars belonging to friends and family plus my own E53 4.6is (164k) So it may be worth trying Dave

Morning Rod Is it all changes or just 1 or 2 ? Thinking sticking solenoid, try a tube of "Dr Tranny" I have known it work on several cars with change issues Dave

Whoop Whoop Well done Dan Dave

Hi Matt Welcome to the Forum The only parts list I can look at shows the parts below which seem unpainted? No. Description Supp. Qty From Up To Part Number Price Notes For vehicles with M Aerodynamics package S715A=Yes 01 Rocker panel trim, primed, left 1 51778061487 01 Rocker panel trim, primed, right 1 51778061488 02 Supporting ledge left 1 51777294887 02 Supporting ledge right 1 51777294888 03 Supporting ledge left 1 51777320205 03 Supporting ledge right 1 51777320206 04 Supporting ledge left 1 51777320207 04 Supporting ledge right 1 51777320208 05 Supporting ledge left 1 51777320209 05 Supporting ledge right 1 51777320210 06 Fillister head screw 2 07147118369 $0.80 07 Expanding nut 8X8 MM 2 51127020321 $0.47 08 Abrasion-resistant film 2 51777416285 Message not specified.

Morning 1st Only charge the battery and check voltages at the charge points under the bonnet. 2nd Voltage measured using a Multi Meter at the charge points should be 12.5/12.8v Engine off car asleep, this shows a healthy Battery. Next check the voltage with the engine running it should be 14.5/14.8v this indicates a healthy Alternator. If the battery is charged directly it should be disconnected from the car to avoid possible damage to control units or sensors. After engine start it can take 15mins to replenish the battery Dave

I thought there was a dip stick right side low down at the rear of the engine Dave

Morning Ian I have brought rebuild kits from the well known Auction site, the last one for my 4.6is cost just under £200 and was Mehyle who are OEM suppliers as are Febi. I made my own Rose Joint removal/insertion tool from some scrap Tube scrounged from a local factory and a length of studding. All the other parts are just remove and replace. The only other cost was the eccentric bolts I have learned that due to rust it is easier to cut them off and replace them (tip, mark the position of the eccentric bolt heads before removal so the new one goes back in the same place) Rust is the biggest problem so I soak the bolts and nuts with release fluid (not WD40) for a week before and as I am replacing not reusing if they wont play I use a reciprocating saw and cut them off. Once done I have the alignment checked on a Hunter 4 wheel alignment machine at a local garage. Dave

Hi Joe My 2003 X5 4.6is has 2 keys one is original the spare is a Genuine BMW spare my E70 X5 3.0d 2007 both keys are original and still working. The key batter should be recharged when in the car Definitely check the IBS sensor I learned the hard way if replacing Glow plugs on a BMW change the controller while your in there it saves grief later. If the car is running OK then prioritise the bits to change and the things that don't effect running do as and when Dave

Hi Matt Welcome to the Forum You say on the hub its at max? Is that the onboard screen oil level? If it is you do have a Dip stick always check oil there it may be worth checking there. Dave

Hi Ian Welcome to the Forum My experience is your rear suspension is probably worn there are a lot of rubber bushes and a Rose joint while they may look OK they tend to soften so when you "Drive" your car it allows the rear tyres to squirm changing the geometry and accelerating wear. If your car hasn't had the suspension rebuilt then on a 2006 model I would expect it to need it on age if not mileage. My X5 E53 4.6is (360+hp) on 20" wheels is currently running Hankook tyres 275x40x20 Front 315x35x20 Rear suspension was rebuilt 2 years ago wear is even miles covered 29k they will be replaced later this year. My E70 3.0d runs the same size wheels Tyres are Michelin in the same sizes 12k covered and about half worn. I rebuild the suspension at between 80 and 100k. Hope this helps Dave

Morning David Welcome to the Forum That doesn't make sense to me, my X5 E53 4.6is has sat for 8 months (it only comes out for the summer these days) and yes there was surface rust on the rotors but a short drive cleaned them and no judder or vibration. Check the manufacturing date of your car against the delivery date as if they are claiming rust it may have started before you took delivery? Also how can rust warp a rotor? Over heating due to sticking calliper's or driving like Lewis Hamilton on new brakes (no bedding in) will do it, but on a new car with only 8k ?? Have you contacted BMW UK ? Good Luck with the outcome Dave

Morning Joe Welcome to the Forum The only code I recognise as affecting locking is A6E8 I have seen it on 2 x Z4 BMW's on both occasions a new key fixed it. One of them had had the Key battery changed twice each time the fix lasted around 3 or 4 months. I would clear the lot make sure the battery is fully charged and correctly registered to the chassis then run the car and check what comes back. It looks like you may have several that return Glow Plugs and controller and AUC sensor for sure. Good luck Dave

Hi Lisa Welcome to the Forum BMW as do other Manufacturers take great care over the tyres chosen as OEM supply and Pirelli are amongst the suppliers chosen if there were any inherent faults (1) it would be well reported and (2) BMW and others would drop them like a brick. So providing your tyres are correctly inflated and in good order ie; no slice or chunks out of the side wall particularly the inside where they are not seen (pot hole damage) all low profile tyres not just run flats are susceptible to this sort of damage. Dave

Hi Andrew Welcome to the Forum Enjoy Dave

I have seen that before little blighters climb in where it is warm. Good find,if it isn't repairable use www.realoem.com to get the correct part numbers then Google to find replacements Dave

Morning Kingair Welcome to the Forum A diagnostic read with Inpa/Ista ( or a BMW capable Diagnostic program) would confirm exactly what is happening. If you don't have access I would first check the loom and connections if all are good and you are actually changing a single injector I believe it wili need registering through Inpa/Ista or similar Dave

Morning James Welcome to the Forum Unfortunately we are in the hands of designers who grew up playing video games Personally I am solidly with you it is a distraction drivers don't need plus a single fault in the screen renders the car unusable?? The video gamers want to move us towards driverless cars, dont they realise we already have those they are called trains Dave

Hi Jim Have you looked at www.realoem.com it's a BMW online parts list put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model. Then search the sections for what you need (Body or Trim section would be my guess) It will give you part numbers so when looking for replacement you know you have the right bit. Plus there are useful Exploded drawings that should help with how stuff fits Dave

Morning Jim Welcome to the Forum Have you checked You tube for how to videos also worth checking www.pelicanparts.com (a USA site) but everything is basically the same and they have great How To's with pictures. Good Luck Dave

Morning Julian Have you talked to Andy Walker Walker Autotech in Wisborough Green excellent guy he may also know a detailer that could help Dave

Morning Ross Welcome to the Forum I assume your car is the 430/440 engine with the exhaust valve in the rear silencer As I understand it the was to reduce noise at idle and low revs but opens on throttle use or sport mode being engaged. I did read some time ago that starting the car engaging Sport mode (flap open) go to the boot and pull fuse F203 flaps should remain open. Warning I have also read this can cause a CEL warning lamp Dave