Greydog

Morning Sue Welcome to the Forum Oh Dear First over the years there have been other similar instances (BMW don't make Sensors they buy them in) Temperature sensors leaching coolant which by cappiliary action allowed coolant to reach ECU plugs and now Fuel pressure sensors. BMW Dealers never fix/repair anything just Replace them normally at the customers cost ££££ I have read of many who have changed the faulty sensors cleaned the loom and allowed it to dry out with outstanding success. So my advice if you can't DIY find a more realistic Mechanic or Garage either Independent or BMW Specialist clean things down and change the sensor rest things and see how it goes Dave

Morning Sammie Welcome to the Forum Timing Chain (BMW recommend betweeb 80 and 120k) is an engine out job so clutch and rear main seal at the same time I would guess between £1000 and £1500 depending on who does the work Hope this helps Dave

Morning Charlie Welcome to the Forum Bit of a concern that a BMW specialist needed BMW to help ? Some thoughts, can the PCV valve be cleaned ? Has the specialist checked the system hoses for any damage ? Try checking www.realoem.com yourself put the last 7 Digits of your Vin into the search box it should call up your model, then search the sections for what you need there are small exploded drawings that may assist If I recall your car does have an Emmissions Control system and EGR valve with it's assocciated pipework and gaskets worth checking as I was always told Fault Codes can often be symtoms not causes Hope this helps Dave

The only recommendation I would make is only buy the best quality you can afford. You have the sizes stick with recognised brands. Many cheap tyres have earned the reputation as "Ditch Finders" remember they are the only thing between you going where you point the the car and stopping when yo need to. The last tyre change on my X5 I brought Hankook Ventus got a really good deal at the time with Just Tyres, but use the search engines for the best deals not just the cheapest tyres Dave

Morning Carlos Welcome to the Forum I have to say all my AMG Mercedes had Heated, Cooled, Massage seats and I only ever used tha Heaters on very cold mornings 🤣 Have you asked the BMW Dealer what tests they did and how they measured that the seats were working correctly ? Not just that the switch worked Dave

Morning Paul Great progress matey, as I said I have seen several MAF sensor looms damaged most the damage is close to the MAF end as many "mechanics" use the loom to pull it out (even in a Dealers). All have been repairable with a soldering Iron and shrink wrap. BMW actually do a number of repair looms worth checking if there are any available. Certainly check the EGR and its loom Dave

Morning Paul Never used that system but it is giving you much clearer information. 3FF0 is the MAF 40E9 is the EGR not opening or closing correctly The MAF (Mass Airflow Sensor) measurs volume of air The MAP sensor (Manifold Absolute Pressure) is normally on the inlet manifold (sometimes called Charge Air Sensor) realoem should help with location Check Google for test parameters and methods, remember fault codes are not always the cause but a symptom so test the plugs and wiring looms as well. I have seen a few MAF plugs with damaged wiring over the years where heavy handed folks have used the wiring to pull out the plug Dave

Morning Zeet Those are invoices that itemise what they are billing and the cost of items changed. Your F15 is a complicated beast with any where between 65/70 up to 100 different Control units, many have to communicate with each other and control sensors for the smooth running of the car The Drivetrain has specific control units, the ECU (Engine Control Unit) TCM (Transmission Contol Module) TCM (Transfer Case Module) DCM (Differential Control Module) Each of these modules has a number of sensors that it controls and all communicate with each other and other units in the car. As your car had a Drivetrain Issue I would expect to see a Diagnostic report that showed ECU and a message either No Faults Found or a list of Fault codes and explanations followed by the same for each module (In the screen shot modules in Green are OK Yellow there is an issue. Each Module can be interrogated to identify faults. This would show only the elactronic controls are OK or Not and which sensor or component may need changing. A Diagnostic Scan will not show Mechanical Faults these require a whole different series of tests I would be asking what tests were carried out and evidence of results that led to the diagnosis of a new engine required You have paid a lot of money I would expect to be able to see what they have done I hope this helps and doesn't confuse Dave

Hi You can check with a multi meter at the sensor plug first find the power feed I use a pin to probe for voltage to earth. With the meter connected you should see the the voltage change as exhuast back pressure builds if not change the sensor. Similar test for the MAP sensor normally voltage fluctuates between 0 and 5v as prssure changes. Check You Tube there are some good Videos there Changed both on an N47 2.0d for a friend of our son last year from memory they were about £15 each from a local Auto Factor The fact you were getting Blue Grey smoke would make me look at the MAP sensor as that effects Fueling Good Luck Dave

Morning Paul First the Glow Plug issue should only become a problem below -5C or inhibit Regen if the engine can't generate enough internal heat 40E9: exhaust gas recirculation control, position control 4B81: Exhaust gas recirculation rate control, control deviation This is where the detective work begins there still could be an issue with the DPF sensor even though you have changed the pipe also check the Map sensor. Check realoem for the location of any pipes steel or Flexible and make sure they are clear Good Luck Dave

Morning Zeet Wek Welcome to the Forum I take it that a full Diagnostic scan was carried out? Do you have a copy if not ask for it. I would want to know how they came to the decision what evidence was it based on? If internal damage was suspected the internals can be inspected using an Endoscope to confirm just what is going on it can even store pictures The reason is your Dealer seems to have concentrated on the petrol engine yet the car is a Hybrid, so the Battery pack, Charging, Motor and all the controls and sensors that allow it to work with the petrol engine are oart of the Drivetran It doesn't end there, the Gearbox Transfer box and axles along with last but not least the tyres are all Drivetrain and effect other components As an enthusiastic Home Mechanic who has always maintained his own cars, I have the equipment and use it surley a Main Dealer should have it? I would expect them to have a Duty of Care to their customers to not only diagnose the issue but demonstrate the diagnosis Dave

Well as they say "Every day is a School Day" apparently you do have additional NiCad batteries I just spoke with an old friend in the US (he was a neighbour for years works for BMW now very senior in the US) The SI Board is part of the instrument cluster so you have to remove the cluster then remove the SI board which has 2 NiCad battery's soldered to it. He says that BMW never try and change them as they break down and leak causing a real mess his advice is get a new SI board it will be quicker and cleaner and is what BMW workshops do However there are a couple of Companies in the UK ECU Testing (Derby I think) and Cartronix (Chertsey) it may be worth giving them a contact to see if they can help Good Luck Dave

Hi Christopher I just tried to trace your Vin number with no luck I entered (or tried to) it into www.realoem.com which if you are not aware is a complete BMW Parts list the same as is used by BMW Dealers so would show all parts and part numbers I have carried out a quick manual search (if the Vin is accepted it automatically calls that model up) I searched E28 and E34 models and could find no refference Does the Haynes manual not give a clue ? BMW UK may be able to help they have a Classic Division Sorry Dave

Hi Graham Welcome to the Forum You need a diagnostic scan to help find the cause, otherwise we are all just guessing Dave

Aaron Stop guessing and looking for quick fixes start checking and testing Injectors can make a little noise (very small rattle) unless they are loose or the seals have gone. An injector needs fuel at the right pressure to work correctly and atomise the fuel. Your back to finding the cause of the noise Dave

Morning Paul Good find with the DPF sensor just the servo sensor to go With the Glow Plugs as your in there change them all and the controller. They don't effect starting while ambient temperatures are as they are, they are important though as they are used to boost combustion temperatures during a Regeneration Phase. If you use the car on Motorways or Main Dual Carriageways probably less so, but if your driving is mainly short local journeys they become important Dave

When it fired how did it sound Noisy? If fuel was there at a high enough pressure to atomise it should have kept running I would have thought

Morning Aaron The 3 pins on the sensor one will be Earth one will be power (5v) and one will be the signal wire. You need to test the Wiring plug as well as a damaged loom will give the same symptoms as a dead sensor. From memory Earth will be Brown Power Blue Signal white or Green. Earth check continuity, Power Ign On you should see 12v Signal you need a good multi meter or oscilloscope (Check on line for test information) We are back to noise, a failed sensor will inhibit/stop engine start it won't make it noisy. You say it was "loud like it had a bad misfire" "or like the Air filter was off" That would have me checking for any issues from the Turbo to the intercooler and Intercooler to Inlet manifold. A split hose or intercooler will give noise. Then there is the Turbo and its actuator that need checking. These are things that can cause rough running and Noise. Dave

Morning Christopher Welcome to the Forum As far as I am aware the E34 range did not have any separate back up batteries just the main car battery. Dave

Aaron Reading your post you ask if the tests you have done with ISTA will show the fuel pump is working? The pressure your seeing seem to indicate that it is or at least the HPFP is good So back to checking all the sensors and their wiring as some thing isn't sending the right signal You say things got loud and as said before that could have been Turbo related Exhaust related Intercooler related have you checked that Turbo to exhaust manifold clamp and connection is OK Turbo to DPF clamp and connection is OK Then the other side of the turbo the connections to the intercooler and then to the Inlet manifold Dave

Aaron Why are you starting the car or trying to with parts removed ??? As I said just Google test procedures and test the sensor rather than guessing The Fuel Pump relay is in the boot starter relay seems OK as you are cranking over Dave

Morning David Welcome to the Forum Not heard this before, but now you have started me thinking my E53 the leather steering wheel and the door pull did start to get dull and sticky. After talking to a car detailer I changed to Chemical Guys leather cleaners and treatment. It took 2 or 3 cleans to rejuvenate the steering wheel the feel was totally different door handle easier I don't know if your problem is the same but worth looking at what cleaners have been used Dave

Lets start again (1) Glow plugs and Glow Plug controller should not prevent the car starting unless it is flipping freezing (2) Fact, the engine management DDE needs information from several sensors and modules to allow the engine to start. It needs information from the gear selector inhibitor switch that the car is in P or N it needs information from the Cam sensor and Crank sensor it needs information from the Fuel pressure sensor Throttle position sensor and MAF these are the main ones The car getting suddenly loud could be a fault with the exhaust or DPF it could be a blown hose on the intercooler or even a blown intercooler It could be a turbo charger problem. When you have been changing parts (A) are they correct for your Model I would check www.realoem.com if you haven't get the correct part numbers for sensors and any other parts you need the google for the best source. Realoem will also have small exploded diagrams which should help locate where stuff is you should also have all the information in ISTA WIS The Crank Sensor is behind the starter so I hope it's not that as it is a really awkward job you have checked the Start Relay and Fuel pump Relays I guess

Hi Murray Welcome to the Forum I read some time ago about water collecting under the fuse box in the engine bay and leaching in through the loom Blocked drains were the culprit if I recall Hope this helps Dave

Morning Aaron Everyday is a school day So first clearing down faults does not fix them, that's what we are supposed to do. All clearing faults will do is get rid of spurious ones caused by low battery voltages or those that are no longer present (held in memory) You seem to have an issue with Glow plugs and the Glow plug controller as it is only 2 glow plugs not all 6 normally it wouldn't stop the car starting particularly while the ambient temp is as it is. I would test the glow plugs and their wiring to the controller. If it cant be fixed that way then change all 6 and the controller. Be aware the car uses the Glow plugs as part of the temp control for Regeneration of the DPF, if they are not working it could effect Regen. The other faults are with the IHKA (Climate Control) and the CIC (Radio, CD, Screen Display) Normally would not effect starting Fuel pressure is still low so back to the drawing board I am afraid, have you checked tested the Crank shaft and Cam shaft sensors? Have you checked the fuel pressure sensor? Has the Turbo been checked ? When was the car last serviced ? When was the fuel filter last changed ? Dave