Greydog

Morning Paul Check the level is correct and try a tube of Dr Tranny I had a similar issue with my E53 4.6is Diagnostic on mine first said Turbine (Torque converter) then valve body I changed the fluid and added Dr Tranny no re-occurrence since. Issue started at 110k (Fluid change had been done at 84k) now on 164k much cheaper than the alternative. Your problem could be a tiny bit of debris in the valve body or just something sticking. I flushed mine by disconnecting the trans hose at the transmission cooler on the Rad attach a piece of clear hose and feed it into a marked clear container (I used an old Coke bottle marked at 1ltr points), then with the help of my son in the car start the engine until 3 ltrs are in the Coke bottle. Engine off refill the trans with 3 litres of new Fluid and repeat, I pushed 10ltrs through which ensured the torque converter was clean as well. A normal fluid change will leave the torque converter full of old fluid and whatever is floating in it. Run the engine until the trans is up to temperature check the levels and put in a tube of Dr Tranny job done. Just about to do my E70 Dave

Sadly, BMW are not alone among manufacturers in trying to convince us we are all too Dumb and their control and wiring systems are far too complicated for us to understand so without the Dealer workshop our cars will never work again!! Try this for the fuses still working on getting you Wiring and Pin out information Fuse Boxes E93.docx

The distribution valve should be near the diesel pump and filter looking at the drawing, again looking at the drawing it seems the pump pushes diesel direct to the HPFP through its own line the distribution valve should only open if the Webasto is called on I don't think they were designed to run with the engine. Normally the Webasto starts to warm the cabin and make it toasty on cold mornings shutting down when the main motor starts. In the cars settings there should be stop/start settings for the Webasto unit I know some have a seperate remote for starting them maybe there is more info in the handbook. I have to say apart from scraping a little frost of the windows in the last 20 years it hasn't been cold enough in the South of England to need a toy like that. I would check the fuel line routing just in case the return line from the HPFP/Injector rail is linked and leaking through the Webasto. My personal feeling is you probably have heated seats so it's more a nice toy then a need to have so me I would probably remove it and sell it on Ebay, but that's me. On the fuel rail there should be a Schrader valve with the engine cranking you should see 3.5 to 5 bar (50+psi to 70+psi) Have you checked the injector wiring? and relay ?

Morning Rob If you are buying from a Dealer get them to fix it BEFORE you buy. If you are buying Private walk away as there are no "cheap fixes" with a BMW just ask yourself why the current owner hasn't fixed it? Don't listen to rubbish like "it doesn't affect how it drives? Or the parts are easy to get on Ebay ? It could be a sensor fault, it could be a control unit fault, it could be a steering rack fault so unless you have the skill knowledge and equipment to diagnose and repair it walk or it will empty your wallet faster than you think is possible. Dave

Morning The pump under the rear seat is the main diesel pump it supplies diesel to the engine driven high pressure pump and Webasto heater. The attachments may help they are from realoem. This first one is the delivery from the tank you can see the Webasto has a distribution valve that should only allow fuel when the control timer tells it to run. yours seems to be getting fuel all the time? That will knock a big hole in your economy. The attached is from Realoem and shows the fuel delivery system and parts list print them off they will help with seeing where things go. Take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your vin into the search box it will bring up your model. Then check the Fuel supply section and the Fuel preparation system the exploded drawings will help identify what you're seeing. Were you aware of a leak before your issue? if not it may be that the fuel return is linked to the Webasto, did the Webasto run before? You need to check fuel pressure at the fuel rail the electric pump does not generate enough pressure to atomise fuel at the Injectors you need the engine driven pump to generate that pressure when the engine is cranked. The high pressure pump is under the inlet manifold and not difficult to change just make sure you don't reuse any gaskets when reassembling But get the sensors checked first before changing the pump if the sensors test OK it must be the pump Dave BMW 3.0d Fuel delivery.pdf RealOEM.com - Online BMW Parts Catalog.html

Brown is BMW's choice for Earth colour somewhere in the back of the Boot (Trunk) behind a trim will be a common earth point (like a comb) it needs unbolting cleaning and remounting preferably with an electrical contact paste to ensure a good earth is made may help cure the issue. BMW has an Online TIS (technical information system) which like Realoem was free. In their wisdom (and probably to frustrate guys like us) they made the decision to make it subscription only!! INPA/ISTA have WIS (Workshop Information) and TIS in the program but my old Garage laptop with all my diagnostic programs loaded the screen has died (it is 20 years old) if I can get it up and running, I will see if I can print off some stuff for you. Attached is a pdf of the boot locking mechanism and its parts the parts key is below No. Description Supp. Qty From Up To Part Number Price Notes WITHOUT Lock cylinder TRUNK LID 01 Trunk lid lock 1 07/2009 51247353615 02 Bowden cable, emergency unlocking 1 07/2009 51247201608 $13.30 For vehicles with Emergency release, luggage compartment S5DSA=Yes 03 Handle f emergency unlocking 1 51247056414 $7.25 EBA 0141456 04 Clip 1 51247056413 $1.69 05 Washer 1 51247057739 $1.26 06 Boot lid/tailgate pushbutton 1 51247118158 $29.40 +core 07 Catch with key 1 51247199828 07 Catch with code 1 51247199829 $130.68 08 Lock cover 1 51247130828 $1.18 09 Torx-bolt with washer ISA M6X17 2 07147139404 $0.80 10 Catch bracket left 1 51247159611 $15.68 10 Catch bracket right 1 51247159612 $15.68 11 Base 2 51247177487 $0.38 12 Torx-bolt with washer ISA M6X17 4 07147139404 $0.80 13 Torx-bolt with washer ISA M6X17 6 07147139404 $0.80 BMW E93 Boot Locking mechanism..pdf

OK always worth checking I can't remember off hand if the fuel filter has a pressure sensor (some do) yours should have a distribution valve to send fuel to the Webasto take care with the fittings some can be brittle (been there). I changed a fuel filter on one of my Brother Inlaws 5 series touring (he is on his 4th) and it was pretty much clogged solid, all his cars have a complete BMW Dealer history. The Dealers reaction was "Can't happen Sir" you must have picked up some contaminated fuel?? His symptoms were drop off in economy and performance and poor cold starting. A scan at home showed poor fuel pressure at the injector rail. Put a catch tray under it when you take it off as there will be some spillage. Your fuel rail has a Fuel pressure regulator at the back end and the fuel pressure sensor at the front end. A Google search might show up some test information that will help with the high-pressure pump, regulator and pressure sensor.

Morning Glyn Why make life easy for folks like us 🤣 BMW are not the only manufacturer who do crazy stuff. As I understand, one motor is Central Locking the other is Soft Close as you have managed to coax them into life try checking the earth connections BMW also like to use earth triggers. The soft close motor will have a fully closed contact that signals the system control for things like Hard Top operation or central locking. If your car has the Comfort access package there was a function for "convenient loading" where the roof goes partially up so the trunk lid can open to allow loading. From what I have read that seems to be behind some of these issues. Normally BMW connectors have a thumb/finger release on one side often just press and pull Dave

Morning The pre-heater is completely separate to the rest of the system. So, by the look of things, you have 2 issues the Webasto pre-heater needs a service or repair plus the engine fuel supply needs investigating. As far as the recovery guy running diagnostics the system, he probably used would be a general OBD reader that would see the main control elements but wouldn't see sub-systems. As an example, using BMW 1.4.0 my E53 4.6is shows 40 control and subsystems and my car does not have all the options. All these are able to supply live data to confirm their status. So back to the beginning, in the fuel tank you have a pump and a level sensor, then a fuel filter located in front of the rear wheel behind a trim cover (which is often missed even by Dealers) a clogged filter can strangle fuel delivery. You have 3 fuel lines one feeding the pre-heater through its own distribution valve. 2 lines go to the Engine one is the feed to the high-pressure pump the other is the return make sure none are squashed or bent (unlikely but not impossible) The electric fuel tank pump will supply fuel to the high-pressure pump which pushes it into the fuel rail where the fuel pressure sensor sends a signal to the DDE no pressure = no start as there isn't enough pressure to atomise the fuel at the injectors. If the pressure sensor sees no or to little fuel the injectors are not activated. If you aren't aware take a look at www.realoem.com an online BMW parts list, put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model then search the sections you need. The small, exploded drawings will help with where stuff fits and how. Double click part numbers and it display any other models it was used in and any alternates. Hope this helps not hinders Dave

Afternoon c Welcome to the Forum My first reaction is you need someone who can run a Diagnostic Scan Has the fuel rail pressure been checked, pressure sensor tested? High pressure pump checked? MAF checked? If you are getting fuel delivery from the electric pump fuel could be being pushed through but not with enough pressure to atomise so the fault could well be with the high-pressure pump or the delivery/metering system after that. Dave

Morning Russ Welcome to the Forum I am not sure what you mean by discontinued? As far as I am aware all CCC parts are still available (though unless you have deep pockets avoid BMW main dealers) The parts are also readily available from the many specialist dismantlers and let's not forget the repairers out there who repair and even improve CCC and CIC units. There are also several Android upgrades for the screen that contain good connectivity. Many can link to the OBD either through the CCC or via a bluetooth dongle. So, it really depends on which component of your OEM CCC that has stopped working. It could be the onboard monitor, the Controller or the Combined CCC/CD (there were a lot of failures with these early units this may be the unit you have been told isn't available) the CCC/CD/Nav are available as separate units. With my E53 4.6is I have kept everything OEM even the Digital TV just for originality. My E70 the screen is an updated Android unit which gives far greater functionality and a choice of Nav programs (Google map, Waze or IGO) and all controlled through the rotary controller. Dave

Hi Richard Welcome to the Forum As you have a CHECK ENGINE light flashing you have a problem that needs attention NOW if you are not capable of diagnosing it yourself you need a Garage or Mechanic The vibration could be a misfire, or a loose pulley or tensioner turning on the AC increases the load on the engine so will not help. Dave

Morning Peter Welcome to the Forum The original system is in sections and fitted with clamps so if you have the parts and spanners just change back? Dave

Morning Glyn You don't have to download www,realoem.com you use it online? Just google it, enter the site and use it if you want to print information just right click and save it as a PDF. Stay clear of all the "Adds" and other rubbish that Google let in though. Good Luck Dave

Morning Brendan Welcome to the Forum Very pretty love the colour (Blue is Faster) Dave

Morning Glyn 240f (115c) seems very hot what is the gauge reading? I believe the car should run at around 90c (200f or lower) High engine temperature will also have an effect on other components such as Gearbox particularly if its auto I would start by checking the cooling system, Rad vanes all clear and water flowing well. No hoses kinked or pinched, Water pump in good order Thermostat working correctly (I change mine to a lower 80c rating) Check the temperature senders there are 2 one on the Thermostat housing and one at the lower hose outlet (check realoem) Check the electric cooling fan is working correctly. I use an Infrared thermometer to check temps at the Thermostat housing I also check the transmission oil sump and engine oil sump, If you have an Automatic transmission fluid is better around 80c which is why I fit lower temp thermostats to help protect the box (my theory anyway) Dave

It may be a BMW and even though they (like many other Manufactures) try to convince us that "Only they can fix it" under neath it is just a car, complicated in places but just a car. If you are not aware take a look at www.realoem.com it's a BMW Online Parts List, just put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box and it will bring up your Model. Then search the sections for what you need. There are small, exploded Drawings that will help see where stuff fits and the part numbers double click a part number, and it will show any other models the part was used on plus and alternative part numbers. I hope the "chemical spray spanner" does the trick Dave

Morning Jes Welcome to the Forum ENJOY Dave

Spot on Glyn The lock engages then the second action pulls the lock into the fully closed position. I your case there are several other sensors that look for the "closed" signal so things can't operate properly I guess you tried good old WD40 😂 Dave

Here is my two pence worth 🤣 The sensors are easy enough to check with a multi meter and as they are not throwing codes the issue may be elsewhere. Check the thermostat and temperature switch as your temp gauge is measuring sometimes over hot it could be fuel evaporation. A check with an infra-red thermometer should tell you what is going on when up to temp and the issue is there. If it is above 90 c that could well be your issue. There is a temperature switch at the bottom of the Rad plus the thermostat in the housing. On my E53 4.6is I fitted a lower value thermostat 80 c to keep things cool. Have you also checked if the Pusher electric fan is operating, on start up the fan should self-test by spinning up. Dave

Hi Darryl Have you carried out any work around the Gearshift area? Is the car Auto or Manual? Obviously very difficult to diagnose without seeing/feeling the issue and knowing what else has been done. Dave

Our neighbour's car was "new build to order" ordered in Feb or March from recollection wide screen system and all bells and whistles. Good luck with the purchase hope you get something you like Dave

Morning Darryl Check the part numbers, use www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model then look in the relevant section. All the OEM part numbers are there double click the part number and it will show a list of alternates and any other models they were fitted to. Check against the part number you fitted. I have never changed single injectors just sets and only diesel, but I have read that around your model year BMW upgraded the injectors which should only be fitted in sets not mixed. Also check the coding was it recognised? I fitted a replacement inner rear light to a friend's E70. The car still reported bulb failure it took 3 attempts before the car believed we had fixed the fault. Good Luck Dave

Morning Brian Welcome to the Forum First port of call www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box. It will bring up your model the browse the section you need (Front or Rear Axle) this will give you a small, exploded drawing of the suspension with part numbers for all OEM parts. then search the Aftermarket suppliers for equivalent or alternate parts Good Luck Dave

Morning Glyn If it isn't adjustment of the "Trunk" lid or something in the way, then the lock needs inspection or changing. Dave