Greydog

Morning Philip That's a weird one after all Singapore isn't exactly known for its cool climate !! It may well be worth checking the diversity antenna there were some well documented issues with 5 series back in the early 2000's but the issue there was water ingress. Worth checking though, the instrument cluster change I wouldn't think would have and effect on the door locking system BMW store mileage covered in two places so if you have a tamper dot beside the recorded miles it wasn't registered correctly to your chassis. If there is no tamper dot it was done properly Dave

Morning Dave First has someone fitted a Rear cluster from an LCI model as an upgrade ? If they have the wiring is completely different. So check part numbers, if you are not aware www.realoem.com it is an online BMW parts list put the last 7 digits of your vin into the search box it will call up your model . Then check the relevant section if you double click the part number it will call up any alternates. If you have LCI LED rear clusters fitted it was a popular upgrade so there are a number of aftermarket plug converter kits I also believe (trusting they old grey stuff now) BMW have a converter kit, you may also need the lights coding to the chassis Good Luck Dave

Good Morning David Welcome to the Forum ENJOY Dave

Morning Travon Welcome to the Forum Seen both your posts, you say you have changed the blower motor? Is that the cabin blower motor and is it working? If it is OK if it isn't check the climate control or FSR. You say it takes freon was that R134a incorrect gas can destroy the seals? Did you change it yourself? If there is a leak you are wasting your money, a garage with the correct equipment (isn't that expensive) the car is connected to a specialist machine that first sucks out all old refrigerant and pulls a vacuum. If the system holds a vacuum then the machine knows there are no leaks and will then fill with the correct gas and lubricant quantities for your car (690/710g) If there is a leak or a fault they will help find it or the cause of poor performance Dave

😁 🤞

Morning Shirley Welcome to the Forum If they are ducking the issue put it in writing Email and Post copy to BMW UK customer services and demand they reinstate the Digital Speedo as their "upgrade" has "down graded" your car after all they must have a copy of the original software. Tell them if they can't/won't do it you will have to take legal advice. Don't let BMW of the hook as it was their upgrade that began the problem Good Luck Dave

Morning Joseph Can't view your screen shots for some reason but it seems clear to me you need help from someone with more mechanical knowledge Fault codes are not always the cause often a symptom, awhile a reader may let you clear the faults it can't fix them That takes a little detective work or a few years knowledge or both Dave

Morning The original post was about measuring Manifold depression/vacuum Nothing at all to do with the climate control or AC system ??

Hi Gary Realoem shows prices in US$ and are just an indicator talk to your BMW Dealer give them the part number and ask for a price you may be pleasantly surprised. Or find an Industrial Fastener specialist realoem gives the bolt specs so ask them the same question When I rebuilt the rear suspension on my E53 I fitted new eccentric adjustment bolts and my BMW dealer was cheaper than Ebay Dave

Hi Jonathan Welcome to the Forum There is a Register of BMW Specialists most are ex BMW Tech's so have the right Skill's and Knowledge base. Normally their hourly rates are half or less than BMW Main Dealer costs Google the Register and look for one near to you there are probably several Dave

Morning Paul Your problem may not be AC related but climate control related First get the heater water valves checked if they are sticking then that could well be the issue I have changed water valves on an E53 and E71 for this problem. Hose clamps on the hoses unplug the valve disconnect the hoses stick a towel underneath to catch the spill. Fit the new valve re-connect and top up the header tank. If it were me I would also book an AirCon service systems loose a small percentage each year KwikFit have some deals on at the moment and as it is carried out by an automated machine that Vacs out the system holds the Vacuum as a leak check and refills with the correct type and quantities of lubricant and refrigerant. And to answer your original question anything around or below 30psi on the low pressure side after about 15 to 20 mins running will give poor cooling it should around 45 to 50psi Dave

Morning Gavin Welcome to the Forum If I recall somewhere in the I-drive settings for the phone you can enable A2DP I did read there was a good tutorial on Youtube Enjoy your new Beemer Dave

Last week a member here asked where the fuses were for the washer pump. I checked in BMW TIS and found a Workshop symbol against the washer symbol ?? Nuts It seems BMW engineers are not the only ones first found this super Idea on my wife's Subaru, Dave

Hi Euge Welcome to the Forum Which model 530i or 530d ? Most of the threads I have read refer to the F10 M5 at around 1.5 ltrs per 1000km, so what are you using? How old is the car how many miles ? Dave

Morning Paul I am not sure where the Washer reservoir is on your model but from memory it is tucked away behind the bumper or under the wing. Either way you have to take a wheel liner out to reach it. Your problem I believe is a build up of a jelly like sludge in the pump filter. The filter is on the end of the pump and easy to clean by washing it out, the down side is if the washer tank is full you need something to catch it in. BMW recommend their own Washer fluid the only difference is it has a anti-fungicide in it. There are several on the market just read the back of the bottle (I use Prestone from my local Auto Factors. Dave

To check for manifold leaks I use a piece of frayed cotton which I pull around all joints if there is a leak it will get sucked towards the leak. Pay attention to the manifold to head fitting area. as for coils Bosch should be OK though I believe Delphi were OEM fitment If you haven't already check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model. BMW moved from the N43 engine to the N46N I am not sure if it makes a difference to the coil packs or not, worth checking Dave

Morning David Sadly today that is all Dealers not just BMW "no code no problem" Years ago had the similar problem with a Volvo T5. I had been in Poland on business, light came on coming back just after crossing into Germany. Volvo dealer could find no fault suggested a faulty O2 sensor, in frustration I changed the fuel filter and ran it with a fuel additive for a couple of tanks. Fault gone and never returned ? I believe it was poor fuel picked up in Poland. You have also had some pretty extreme temperatures in Spain so could be one of the thermostats having a hissy fit ? Interesting to know if it clears with lower temps perhaps? Dave

Morning Joseph The simple fact that you have already had the fault move when swapping replacing parts should tell you something? Assuming that (a) the coil packs are New and at least OEM quality and correct for the car (b) The spark plugs are new and correct for the car (even a new part can fail) When you were changing those parts you must have disturbed the loom I would check each connection for continuity while getting an assistant to twist/move the loom Have you checked the inlet manifold for leaks? Dave

Mine came from Euro Car Parts had to drive to their Redhill depot to collect strangely also a Saturday morning I would have a quick ring around the Motor Factors For any clues if you need them take a look at www.pelicanparts.com they have "how too's" with pictures Good Luck Matey

Morning Stu As it started one side my guess is Airbag very easy change jack it up wheel off. Pull the 30amp Compressor fuse Disconnect the airline the actual air bag is held in by clips 2 at the top 1 at the bottom a half hour job for a man of your capabilities 🤣 Personally I would change both airbags just to be sure Aerosus are the best and come with a warranty. Last time I did it they were about £80 each Dave

Morning Clint Not sure about the later cars don't they store the CD on the hard drive ? Multiplay CD players used to be in the glove box. With the Dash slot I am sure there is a choice in the Idrive menu to ply or Store the CD Hope this helps Dave

Morning Carl If your going to be working on your Z3 then the best Value would be BMW 1.4.0 (About £25) you will need an old laptop with Win 7 or 8 to run it on. Brilliant program which will allow Dealer level access on BMW's using the early Bus systems up to around 2004/5. The difference you will see between an OBD code reader and 1.4.0 is massive INPA is a Full Dealer Program which includes TIS ( Tech Info System) and Wiring diagrams etc, all models up to E87. ISTA is the latest iteration obviously covering all models up to date, including Mini If your Z3 is your only BMW then BMW 1.4.0 would be the best buy (works on Range Rover up to around 2005), if your a car nut like me who works on not just my own BMW's but family and neighbours cars you will need something that will cover more models. My garage laptop has Mercedes Star (used to have AMG), VADIS (Volvo) VAG Com (VW) I also have Foxwell OBD readers one of our sons says "Dads a car nerd with OCD" he could be right but it keeps the old grey stuff stirred up 🤣 and I enjoy the odd challenge. Good Luck Dave

Hi Carl Welcome to the Forum The simplest check is to move the coil pack if the misfire goes with it you have your culprit. If the misfire remains then I would suspect the harness not unknown for them to become chaffed and cause misfires. Also check the Injector harness while your there If you have a diagnostic tool such as INPA you can run live data to check Good luck tracking it down Dave

Morning Joseph You say you checked the connectors and cables ? How? As an Example the Coil pack loom is around 21/2 ft (80cm) long or did you check the wires and connector at each coil pack. Have you checked the loom and connectors for the injectors ? The fault code identifies a Combustion misfire, to achieve combustion you need Fuel, Air and a Spark So if we assume the Inlet Manifold is OK that leaves Injectors or Spark Personally I would remove the plugs and carry out a compression test on 1 &2 if compression is OK and the Plugs are OK (personally I would just change all 4) I would swap say number 1 and number 4 injectors if a misfire moves it points you to the injectors. Last the coil packs same scenario, of course before any of this I would have checked both looms for continuity and any marks or signs of chaffing Dave

Morning Kev Welcome to the Forum Very nice ENJOY Here's to many Smiles of happy motoring Dave