Greydog

Hi Murray Welcome to the Forum I read some time ago about water collecting under the fuse box in the engine bay and leaching in through the loom Blocked drains were the culprit if I recall Hope this helps Dave

Morning Aaron Everyday is a school day So first clearing down faults does not fix them, that's what we are supposed to do. All clearing faults will do is get rid of spurious ones caused by low battery voltages or those that are no longer present (held in memory) You seem to have an issue with Glow plugs and the Glow plug controller as it is only 2 glow plugs not all 6 normally it wouldn't stop the car starting particularly while the ambient temp is as it is. I would test the glow plugs and their wiring to the controller. If it cant be fixed that way then change all 6 and the controller. Be aware the car uses the Glow plugs as part of the temp control for Regeneration of the DPF, if they are not working it could effect Regen. The other faults are with the IHKA (Climate Control) and the CIC (Radio, CD, Screen Display) Normally would not effect starting Fuel pressure is still low so back to the drawing board I am afraid, have you checked tested the Crank shaft and Cam shaft sensors? Have you checked the fuel pressure sensor? Has the Turbo been checked ? When was the car last serviced ? When was the fuel filter last changed ? Dave

Hi Asim Try Googling The Register of BMW Specialists there should be one not to far from you Dave

Hi Paul I thought they came with a sealing strip attached if not belt and braces put a bead of sealant around the back edge before fitting and clean off any excess 😆 Dave PS. You could check on www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model, then check the light section

Morning Can't see your Picture but any cracks or splits will make a difference Dave

Morning Aaron Good choice with ISTA it should really help, first step make sure the Battery is fully charged plus have a back up Battery charged or Booster pack handy (do not connect these direct to the battery only use the charge/jump points under the bonnet) Then carry out a full scan first ignition off then ignition on, First the engine reads many sensors (but two critical sensors) while cranking to confirm an engine start condition Camshaft and Crankshaft they need to synchronize. No signal from either one can result in long cranking or no start. Fuel rail pressure should be (from memory) about 8 bar, then when cranking to run about 1800 bar So from what your showing you have low/no rail pressure and a pressure sensor fault, test or replace it. Your low cranking pressure hopefully is low battery. If not it could be High Pressure Fuel Pump or injectors I hope you have a full copy of ISTA as that should also give you WIS (Workshop Information System) that will help with repairs Dave

Hi Aaron The cam may be turning but is it in time? Fingers crossed it is I have never been a user of Carly so don't know how good/bad it is, with some of the other BMW Diagnostics you can check "Real Time Data" (I use iCarsoft or BMW ISTA) can you do the same with Carly? ISTA will let me see all sensors and control units, ignition on engine off (fully Charged Battery of course) You should be able to check on Google for test procedure for the Sensors at least that way you are able to be sure they are working as they should that just needs a multi meter Has the Turbo been checked ? Check the inter cooler and its pipework for oil, ideally there shouldn't be any in the intercooler. If there is oil then it could be a Turbo seal failure. Check oil levels, take off the turbo inlet hose and feel for any movement in the turbine with a finger. Any movement side to side or in and out is a no no Has the fuel pressure been checked ? is the fuel rail pressure as it should be ? are all injectors seated and sealed correctly ? all glow plugs seated and sealed ? Just me thinking out loud a few of the things I would check

Morning Steven Have you checked all the Vacuum hoses ? Often over looked they can become cracked and brittle over time. See below it looks as though they fit onto the part you have just changed ? Yes a Garage can test for leaks but at a cost which can escalate depending how much probing stripping and digging has to be done. Dave

More information needed here Aaron What model is it E53, E70 , F15, F85, G05 is it Petrol or Diesel. How many miles has it covered ? Where did you get the code, what Diagnostic Reader was used ? A code is not always the cause sometimes it is a symptom of another fault. In your case the sensor could be the sensor can't match data with other sensors, Camshaft as an example cause of this could be timing chain related. The fact you say the car was making a noise like a tank is a worry if it is timing chain related driving the car could have caused more damage. Dave

Hi Dimitris There are BMW Vin decoder sites that should supply the full Build sheet date of Manufacture etc Or put the last 7 digits of the Vin into the search box of www.realoem.com It will call up your model and you will have the Year and Month of manufacture As for the 88c Thermostat I fitted remember I changed the engine driven fan for an Electric fan from a later model the thermostatic switch was from a Landrover defender, I cut the top hose and fitted the thermostatic switch There are Fan control thermostats that fit into the top of the radiator, just take the hose off slide it in replace the hose and tighten the clamp. Most are temp adjustable so you should be able to get where you want to be. See attached image Dave

Morning Robert Welcome to the Forum Not come across this before, if they could set up a Key Card I would have thought that with the Fob would allow your App to connect obviously not !! With actual Key Fobs I know BMW can order new from the factory and it then needs syncing with the car, not a cheap or quick solution. I am sure it won't take long before someone has a hack that will work ? The down side to that means your car will be hackable to the Car Thieves. A friend of ours had a 4.0i X3 "note" HAD it was stolen from their driveway ENJOY your Beemer Dave

Morning try wrapping a little PTFE tape around the joint to see if that stops the sucking noise I take it the two torque screws are the ones at the Plug connector Dave

Morning Sven Then you are back to the Fan/blower and its regulator, that would be my start point on earlier models it was called the FSR (Final Stage Resistor) The FSR was a fairly common cause of the symptoms you have. Dave

As an ex Subaru boy (Impreza) you probably liked the Intake and exhaust noise 🤣 You must be getting old 😅 noticing how noisy things are 🤣 Dave

Morning Sven Welcome to the Forum Obvious one is the AC fully charged ? Next at the bottom of the fan motor is the Regulator did you replace that also also I believe their were two types Denso and Valeo. I remember reading that the Valeo units also have two temp sensors and two actuators. Good luck tracking down the fault Dave

Morning Tim That is why I would test the Relays and sensors also a BMW specific Diagnostic program will record faults that are not currently present, ones that are held in the Control units memory they can still influence things and will need clearing Good Luck Dave

May be a previous owner used someone's tights and stuck a piece over the lens to get the effect 🤣 Dave

Morning Steven My wife's car is a Subaru Outback 3.0 with a full Perrin engine upgrade (400+ Hp at the wheels) it's as quiet as a mouse, no induction noise. Induction set up is standard with just high flow filters. So I would ask if your cars induction has been modified in anyway ? If it is standard then I think you have a leak, quite a big one if you can hear it sucking. Dave

Hi Tim Welcome to the Forum I would check the starter relay and fuel pump relay but to be sure I would start with a diagnostic scan as for the ! on your Dash what colour is it (Yellow or Red) and is the any other symbol illuminated with it ? Dave

Hi Paul Welcome to the Forum A quick check on realoem (BMW Parts List) shows Part Number 63257164978 for your Third brake light try googling the part number. Either your BMW Dealer should help (expensive) but Google or the Auction web sites (Ebay Amazon) should help or contact one of the BMW Specialist Breakers like Quarry Motors Most important keep smiling Dave

Whoop Whoop We know what your doing today 😅 Hope it goes smoothly Dave

Morning SLS Welcome to the Forum If you aren't aware check www.realoem.com Classic section for part numbers then try BMW UK they have a Classic's section but they wont be cheap £££ Or a good Automotive trimmer may be able to help Dave

Try PM ing the posters here if they are up for it, my personal route would be the Rogue Traders program they love stuff like this Dave

Morning Asim Before chucking more hard earned at it check carefully for any Inlet leaks all hoses and gaskets also Test the O2 sensors you can get Maf cleaners but be careful. Dave

Fingers Crossed Dave