Greydog

Damn the tin worm Have you tried the BMW specialist Dismantlers like Quarry Motors (they have helped me a couple of times) Google BMW Dismantlers there are a number in the UK Is it the Sub Frame or the trailing arm ? May be off the car a specialist Fabricator could help ? We did this with a friends W210 Mercedes Dave An after thought have you talked to BMW UK they have a Classic's section

Hi Margo In simple terms your car has a number of Control units each one is linked by a number of cables and fibre optic leads. These are wrapped together with a protective tape to form a Loom with a connector at each end so it can be plugged in and allow different control units to talk to each other. If the loom is routed badly chaffing rubbing can take place, or the wrong length (to short) so that it and it's cables and connectors are under pressure. That can cause wear where it normally wouldn't occur or connectors to come loose. Hope this helps Dave

That's a function the designers didn't plan on !! Clearly a control unit or connector or the loom needs replacing and repositioning because if they don't the cycle will begin again I fear. Don't let them rest Margo Good Luck Dave

Hi Florian Welcome to the Forum Can you not re-bush the trailing arms lots of Poly Bush kits available, or is the issue rust? Dave

Did you disconnect the under bonnet alarm switch? The car definitely needs a fulls diagnostic scan or you are chasing shadows Dave

Sorry Ossie Welcome to the Forum Dave

Morning Arun Welcome to the Forum As Ossie has pointed out you can open the bonnet and access the Charging points under the bonnet that should allow power to the boot. You should never charge a BMW direct to the Battery terminals (unless it is disconnected as damage can occur due to voltage surge. However I think your issue may be deeper than just a dead battery. You say you changed the ECU ? when you did, did you also change or re-program the EWS to recognise the new ECU ? If not the EWS has probably activated the immobiliser. If you did register the ECU to your chassis and match it to the EWS then reregister the keys with luck it is just the dead battery Dave

Morning Paul Welcome to the Forum I am not aware of anyone who will sell single locking nuts other than possibly a BMW Dismantler there are a number of specialist dismantlers I would check Google Hope this is useful Dave

The problem is the Refurbishment market buys everything that comes onto the market from the garages so you dont see them in the scrap bin any more. Try checking TIS in INPA if you have it for the crank shaft Boss sizes see if they are different. If the 3.0 and 2.0 crank shafts are the same Boss size I believe they both have an 8 bolt mounting so it may give more scope. The 3.0ltr DMF will be heavier though so that may have an effect on the 2.0ltr engine. If my memory serves a company called Scheaffler designed the first DMF's in the late 70's early 80's maybe look for them Dave

Morning Phil Welcome to the Forum If you are not aware take a look at www.realoem.com it's an online BMW parts list put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box and it will call up your model the search the section that you need. When you find the part and number double click the part number and you will get a list of alternate part numbers and models compatible parts were used on. For me the preferable route has always been repair where I can so Google BBA Reman or ECU Testing I have used both many times over the years very reliable fast turn around and both warranty their work. Hope this helps Dave

Morning Following your other post Luk from what I read, seem to have cornered the market across so many Marques (never used them personally) since the early 80's all my cars bar 3 have been Auto (2 x Cosworth 1x Lotus Carlton) A lot of BMW specialists (remember they are BMW trained) stick Ridgely to OEM only. But always remember BMW don't make them they buy them in. I purchased some suspension bushes from Febi (1/3rd of BMW cost) 2 of them were in boxes with BMW logo's I guess you have to use the OEM part numbers and check all options for supply though LuK with factories in Hungary and China have been one of the biggest suppliers OEM and Aftermarket for some time As always hope this helps Dave

Morning DW Welcome to the Forum I would think that there would be a difference in static balance between a 4 and a 6 your engine is 4 cylinder M47N or N2. Also the crank spigot for mounting the flywheel to the crank may be different. realoem shows 3 part numbers for your car 565745, 518897, 515192 Hope this helps Dave

Morning Wils Welcome to the Forum Sounds like something rotating. When were the belts pulleys and tensioners etc last checked/changed if your in there changing stuff do the water pump often forgotten but they dont last forever. Good luck with the culprit Dave

😅🤣 Nice job sit back and relax

Whoop Whoop that was good service getting them to you as well Enjoy Dave PS if your missing cleaning I have an X5 that needs a scrub up 🤣

BMW wiring designers like common earth points, I had a lot of strange intermittent issues with my 4.4 turned out to be one of the earth points in the boot. Took it off then cleaned and remounted it with electrical contact paste everything cleared. I worked my way through all the main earth points just in case. Also when you have been doing stuff you may have moved a loom ? Dave

Morning Martin Welcome to the Forum Could be the fuel pressure sensor, take the engine acoustic cover off on the passenger side of the engine is the inlet manifold plenum. At the back of the plenum you will see a sensor and plug, unplug it if the engine now runs freely through the revs the sensor is probably your issue. If not then a scan is needed to determine just what it is. Dave

Morning Louise Welcome to the Forum First the price quoted was that by a BMW Dealer (they replace not repair)? I guess it was. Second check your tyres carefully, have any been changed lately if so are they the correct size and make? If the tyres are not all correct for your car then transfer case damage is common (Not just to BMW but most AWD cars) When did the transfer case have its fluid changed? There are several Transmission specialist out there who now rebuild transfer boxes, Google is your friend to find them Dave

Morning Craig Welcome to the Forum Try checking www.realoem.com (if you haven't already) just put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model. Get the part number for your pads and cross reference them with Brembo. I have run Brembo stuff for years and not come across this issue Dave

Morning Steve Welcome to the Forum When you say "start" do you mean just the engine? If it is then does your car have full air suspension? Dave

Hi Graham The power light is beside the left hand Knob (small orange light) try pressing the button or turning it up/down. Fuses are in 3 places Glove box Rear right Cubby and a sneaky one under the Big Quadloc connector on top of the Radio (BM54) unit under the boot floor. In the right rear cubby you should find a fuse box there should be a diagram to show which does what. If its not there check fuses 72 (30a) and 75 (5a) there is also a relay No3 The BM54 Radio unit is under the Boot floor and the spare wheel remove them and the plastic protector plate (3 screws) and you should see the BM54 radio unit with a big Black Quadloc on top under it is a 10a fuse (sneaky huh) while your down there the TV unit is on the left with Blue and White connectors As you recently purchased the car did it work when you first got it ? Is it possible the previous owner had an aftermarket unit fitted and removed it for sale? So check the Left Cubby for the Nav unit, CD Changer, and ULF (Bluetooth unit tucked down the bottom. Make sure they are all connected.The Nav unit handles the Video signal to the headunit so if it's not connected or missing that could well be your problem. Mk4 Nav units come up on Ebay a lot normally around £90 to £150 depending on the seller Just re-read your original post while the Halfords man was right to say you need an extended ISO lead but a £1000 !!!!! try £60 for the lead plus a Dynavin (the one I used) unit or similar £250 to £600 (new) which will look totally OEM plus you can add all the bells and whistles, TV Dash cam Reverse cam Dab etc should you want So the choice (for me it would be) is if 2 or more items in the OEM system need replacing I would weigh the cost against Aftermarket replacement Dave

Morning Graham Welcome to the Forum The guy at Halfords is correct, currently your Radio and TV/Video unit are under the spare wheel in the boot the Navigation,CD Changer and Bluetooth unit are in the left rear cubby. The screen is just a display and control for the stuff in the back. I take it you have checked fuses. There are a number of options open to you, first is it the screen or another issue ? Does the power light illuminate on the head unit or can you hear the radio? If you can then a replacement screen unit will be a simple swap and a lot cheaper than a full install If you have been having other problems such as Flaky Nav or CD or Radio then the choices are change individual OEM units not difficult as they are all easily accessible. However if you start to add up the cost of changing multiple OEM stuff a change makes economical sense. I did this on my 4.4. To change requires a 5m long ISO lead before fitting it I added a Nav antenna (SMA) extension and a Radio antenna extension. There is plenty of space to run the lead along the passenger side (tip get a set of trim removal tools) I unbolted the passenger seat so I could tip it back to get more room where the loom runs under it. A couple of hours fitting the loom and removing all the OEM stuff and replacing trim and the seat then connect up and test 😁 Best part I sold all the OEM kit on Ebay and recovered the cost of the Dynavin unit I replaced it with, word of caution here you will loose some of the check functions clock etc displayed in the binnacle (well I did back then) though I have read the newer Dynavin n7 units retain these. Everything looked OEM which I wanted but bluetooth was a huge improvement as was NAV TV and CD/DVD Hope this helps Dave

Morning John Welcome to the Forum As the wiring will not be connected to anything the system will think there is a Fault so you will get warnings about inactive self leveling suspension. I would think it is possible to "Code" out the warnings using ISTA/INPA There may be further complications if you have self levelling on all 4 corners when it comes to coding out the warnings. I don't know if leaving the warning will cause a limp mode situation with the car thinking it has suspension failure. I have coded out several X5 and a couple of 5 series with rear only Air suspension when the owners have gone to conventional springs. Nothing on a car as new as yours though. My personal preference is OEM so my X% still runs rear self leveling air suspension. Dave

Good find Steven Dave

Morning Dave That is a lot more information which helps but also gives more options for fault cause First as Stu suggested have you unplugged the MAF to see the effect on idle. Check all the Vacuum pipes and Crank case ventilation carbon filter? Check the Inlet manifold for Air leaks ? They are the obvious physical things that come to mind. An air or Vacuum leak will give erratic idle and possibly misfire at higher revs. Have you checked the simple things with the car idling take the fuel cap off, does anything change? The fuel tank breather system hoses and valve in the engine bay? The fuel injector system wiring, and fuel lines, unplug individual injectors see if anything changes? Air and Vacuum hoses harden and crack with age as do plastic connectors. If an Oxygen sensor is failing/failed (they have a life of about 100k) there is a fall back map in the ECU so while MPG may fall a little idle isn't normally affected. Your Alternator is charging at the correct rate from your previous post. The Throttle body code that points to a failing/failed throttle body The symptoms of a failed throttle body are in my experience (have seen a few on several makes as well as BMW over the years) car will start and idle but will not rev or when in gear no power. While there seems a lot to check and test it isn't outside the scope of a home mechanic and could all be done in a Saturday morning. A scan with a BMW specific scanning tool will give far more accurate information I use primarily BMW 1.4.0 or INPA/ISTA these systems don't just give a Code they actually describe the faulted item and its position. As an example I had a parking sensor fault, the scan showed PDC sensor Centre rear Right. Dave