Greydog

Hi Steven Welcome to the Forum Not heard this before it isnt like BMW to pass up an opportuniy to charge a bit more because it's "Special" I guess you have searched the after market ? Dave

Hi Dave Which engine are we dealing with ? Rough Idle can be several things Plugs Coil Packs coil pack loom Injectors Injector Loom, also check the fuel pressure and compression. If that all checks OK then you are back to your original post. Normally if a Fault Code can be cleared it is a symptom of something else. If the fault code is persistent as in your case then the items that faulted need thorough investigation or replacement. Dave

Isn't it a pain when our car outsmarts us 🤣 Dave

Morning Stu Dave's original post mentions stored fault codes that indicate Throttle body and or Harness they need to be checked/tested. The throttle body is on the Inlet manifold the Maf is separate normally near the Air filter. In my experience when the throttle body is failing/fails the car will start and idle but there will be no power if unplugged often it wont start/run. If the codes are erased the car will run normally until the fault re-occurs. The question is is the fault in the throttle body or the loom? When the Maf is failing/failed the car will be difficult to start and idle erratic if the Maf is unplugged idle will often even out as the ECU reverts to a fall back map Dave

Morning Chad Welcome to the Forum Always difficult to diagnose a knock or clunk without experiencing it.Is the knock are one off clunk or a rotating knock knock knock? First did the specialist explain why they thought it was the diff? If the diff is worn then I would think it should be possible to check your self how much movement at the Input shaft/prop are all the bolts tight and the coupling in good condition, is the centre bearing OK. If they are then how much movement is in the drive shafts either side. Is the diff oil level correct? As far as the Diff goes I guess that price is a BMW OEM part plus fitting. As you have a handy brother inlaw in your tool kit 😁 Maybe talk to some of the BMW Specialist Dismantlers (Google) check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box then check the Diff in the Rear axel section double click the part number and you should get a list of othe models it was used in. Good Luck Dave

Morning Rick Cant help with your camera in use as mine my wife's and my brother inlaw's are all Nextbase cameras. They all have vibration/collision sensor capability so come on when parked if the car is clobbered and they just work fine, I check ours once a month. Pull the memory card and check it's recording OK that's it. Happy to report in 7 years since fitting we have not needed the footage other than test and curiosity Dave

Morning James Welcome to the Forum The only Daft Question is the one you wished you'd asked BMW specify a range of oils for use in different climates check the hand book. 5-30 fully synthetic is normal in the UK and Europe, 5-40 fully synthetic in extreme conditions (Heat) or in a very high mileage engine I use Castrol Magnatec so does my Brother Inlaw in his diesel Hope this helps Dave

Throttle body

Morning Rick I guess it's a simple task to fit the camera the bit you need to think about is where you take the power from. With my brother Inlaws 5 series I took power from the glove box torch charger, on his latest we took power from the sun visor courtesy light. One member on here got hold of a spare chargeable torch and soldered the power connections to it so his install was removable without any great fuss Dave

Morning Green6 Welcome to the Forum First check the "how Many Left website then as you have the Reg Number I would first check the Government MOT web site. If there is no record of an MOT either the car is Off the Road/Scrapped or it may have had a Plate change. I don't think the DVLA would be much use without a Vin number they would also probaly hide behind the DATA Protection act. May be some of the "6 Series" owners Forums? Good Luck with the hunt Dave

Have you disconnected the battery, if you haven't all fault codes will remain as "Fault Present" so nothing will change? Your battery seems OK by those figures. The Battery Disconnect is a Dealer trick to reset faults without a full diagnostic check If you don't have a BMW capable code reader you may need the help of a Garage or may be a member on here near you to run a check. Dave

Morning John A common cause of brake judder is also the wish bone bushes going soft, the big heavy arm connected to the hub and the front of the car If you don't have a sticky calliper or warped disc get them to check it out Good luck Dave

Morning Ray Welcome to the Forum This is the first time I have heard this one so some "Genius" in BMW has found another way to try and hold onto your wallet??? Do they not realise they are actually driving folks away? There are a few aftermarket suppliers of Software upgrades now, try talking to Rusty at Satnav upgrades google will help Dave

Morning Dave As Stu has said first check the battery and make sure it is fully charged. If you disconnect the battery for 30mins minimum it will reset all codes. So good opportunity to disconnect and do an overnight charge. Are we dealing with a petrol or diesel variant ? The codes point to the Throttle body and its harness (so I guess petrol), it's not unheard of for the harness's to chafe and cause issue so test it carefully and check it for any sign of wear or damage. If you are not aware use www.raeloem.com to identify correct parts for replacement it is an online BMW parts list just put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model. Good Luck Dave

Morning Mike Welcome to the Forum As Stu says this is a really straight forward job to do, the BMW OEM kit was not cutting edge so unless you have OCD about originality go for it There are manufacturers like Dynavin that I know allow you to retain all the stalk and steering wheel functions and the unit is literally plug and play and designed to look OEM, plus as you have seen there are a whole raft of offers on E bay just remember the old saying you get what you pay for. ENJOY Dave

Morning John A lot of cars with adjustable rear suspension tend to be aggressive with the rear tyre inside edges. I have experienced this on several cars I have owned Mercs, to Subaru and of course the BMW's Volvos while not adjustable at the rear have a peculiar effect in that the front tyres wear oddly on the outside edges. On all the cars alignment checks showed everything to "be within Manufacturers tolerance" Tyre pressures were always spot on. First noticed when we ran Volvo 850's and V70's in our business as engineers cars.'So I started to check carefully all bushes and mountings on the suspension and was able to compare a new car to a car with 50+k on the clock that was just starting to show odd wear. Rear bushes all seemed in good order but if I was aggressive with a pry bar there was more movement in the higher mileage car. So we re=bushed the rear suspension had alignment checked problem fixed. That was in the early/mid 90's and with all the following cars the bush wear at the rear has been the culprit. With both X5's (very similar set up to your 325) the Rose bush in the set up starts to go soft so that under load the toe in is altered, result wear to the inside edge. Experience has taught me that once wear begins re-bush the rear suspension not just the obvious suspect as an example a complete kit for the rear of the X5 is around £300 just did the job for the 2nd time on my X5 so much cheaper than a set of tyres. It seems that the rubber bushes have a service life of between 60 to 80k depending on use and conditions That is where I would look I would also bite the bullet and change the lot Dave

Morning Ben Welcome to the Forum Lost Power? Electrical or Engine ? All our answers will be guess's on so little information If its Electrical could be a whole raft of things so if you can't DIY you need an Auto Electrician or good Garage. If it's Engine have you continued driving it with reduced power?? Again if you can't DIY you need help it could be Turbo or Turbo actuator related it could be a fuel pump issue or injector issue it could be EGR related. A full Diagnostic session is needed. Dave

Is it Cured ??

Isn't Clocking Illegal in the UK ??

Morning Paul Not easy as the only ones that I have ever seen are After Market and as you probably know that can be a bit hit and miss Have you asked your Dealer? Dave

Morning Donald Welcome to the Forum As your car is at best just over a year old I would be much harder with the Dealer as it is their responsibility to supply a vehicle that is "suitable for purpose" and a very expensive car should have "everything" working correctly, no faults. I would ask what they had done to check the fault, a software test is not good enough what physical tests did they do and what plan is in place to rectify the problem, Good Luck Dave

Morning Ian Welcome to the Forum Not trying to "teach Granny" as you have done a lot of work so some questions (1) Does your car have Dynamic Drive ? (2) When buying your parts have you sourced them by part number or ordered through a motor factor ? Are you aware of www.realoem.com its a BMW online parts list put the last 7 digits of your vin into the search box it will bring up your model then look at the front axel assembly there are small drawings and all the parts/part numbers The small exploded drawings will let you see all components and where they are. Yes you can buy the mounting bushes separately check first if you have Standard or Dynamic drive roll bar Also don't get obsessed with the suspension my wifes Subaru Outback developed an annoying clunk at the front and I went through a few days of head scratching and testing for loose/worn bushes then discovered a broken mounting on the Washer reservoir ?? You never know Good Luck with solving it Dave

Morning Neil Welcome to the Forum I changed a manifold for a friend of one of our sons last year (not a 4.0d) he brought a Cast Iron manifold from Ebay for £80 it came with all gaskets and fitted really well. The original had several cracks in it and looked cheap by comparison. The car he says is quieter (well it would be, no cracks) and actually gives better mpg. So my only thought is talk to the Cast iron suppliers. As you are suffering the cracking I bet you aren't alone maybe they will have a solution Dave

Fingers crossed for you Margo Some years ago I had an issue with a Mercedes E63 I owned the problem was intermittent violent gear shifts. First the Dealer at first dismissed it even said it could be my driving style. They said they had tested the car and couldn't find a fault, over a period of months they had the car more than me. It reached a point where even after I was able to take the service manager out so he could feel the problem himself and me informing them in writing that if they didn't fix it this time I wanted my money back. 4 days later got a call saying all fixed it was a software issue, the car was perfect for the rest of my ownership. I learned later from a technician who left the Dealership that in fact they had a number of gearbox issues with my model and the solution was change the box but only as a last resort ?? Lets hope what ever they have done it lets you enjoy your car at last Dave

Morning Ewen Welcome to the Forum You are quite right to be cautious check some of the websites like "How Many are left" that will give a feel for how many are still registered (rarity) Then check the specialist Classic car Auction sites to see if there are any there for sale. Talk to them see if you can get a realistic valuation, then you can make more informed decisions. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder and if you are lucky enough to get 2 "beholders" at an auction 😃 Good Luck Dave