Greydog

It's a special feature to keep your licence safe 🤣

Morning Dereck Never apologise for asking a question how else do we learn Take a look at www.realoem.com a BMW online parts list put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model, then look in the seats section. Scroll to the part numbers and double click the part number it will show a list of alternate part numbers and models they were used in. If available that is Dave

Morning Christopher Obvious things I would check, Tyres balance condition and wear any splits or lumps in the side walls tread wear even side to side front to rear all inflated correctly. Suspension and Driveshafts, nothing loose or allowing movement wheel bearings OK Brakes, Any binding or sticking pads or calipers. After driving any heat felt at the wheel centre would indicate an issue Propshaft, Centre bearings can wear Other things that can cause vibration are Engine pulleys belts and tensioners Hope this helps Dave

Morning Dino Welcome to the Forum Dave

Hi Sarah A good alternator should maintain battery voltage between 13.9 and 14.8 volts (14.2 is optimum). Even worst-case, with all accessories turned on, there should be at least 13 volts at the battery. With BMW's I was shown by a BMW Tech to always test/measure at the charge/jump posts under the bonnet. With my Mercedes with the engine off and after about half an hour the battery drain would begin, I measured a current present at the voltage regulator. I brought a new regulator and then while testing the old one on the bench found the failed diode (works like a one way valve) A Voltage regulator is fairly simple to change and not as expensive as an alternator. There are quite a few Auto Electricians who say if alternator voltage is below 13.7v change the alternator Not easy to diagnose by remote control, so hope this helps Dave

Morning Paul I use a black leather polish (like shoe polish) from Scratch Doctor, The side bolster was grey with wear so I tried using a leather dye but I have to say ended up taking the seat out so I could do the whole thing to ensure an even colour match I was happy with. Then did the other front seat as to me it didn't quite match 🤣 One of my sons said "you have OCD Dad" it looked OK and you don't have eyes in your bum !! 🤣 Dave

If you can;t set the memory something is off, either wrong unit or it's failing With the chap I helped the unit fitted had 2 connectors (1 large 1 small) the cars loom had 3 connectors. When he got the right part they all fitted With regard to the mirrors there are several reasons that they may not work, not all E53 X5;s had them fitted you can check using a BMW Vin decoder to see what was ordered at Build or just pop off the cover to see if there is a motor and limit switch fitted worth checking. Tip, get a good set of trim removal tools plastic retaining clips are easy to break. Also do you have the fold button beside the mirror adjustor Dave

Hi Malcolm Welcome to the Forum Look at www.realoem.com Classic section put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model. Then search the sections for the part you need, when you have the Part Number if you double click the part number it will show a list of alternate parts (if available) and other models that the part was used in (if any) Then BMW have a Classic section and still have spares or the Google the BMW Specialist Recyclers Also talk to guys like BBA Reman, Cartronix or ECU testing they repair all sorts of electrical stuff and may help Hope this is useful Dave

Morning Bruce A guy local to me has a 3.0d E53 asked me in the supermarket car park how he could get his mirrors to close and if I knew how the steering adjustment worked. He came around one Sunday and we popped off the trim panel and checked the part number, it turned out a previous owner had fitted a seat adjustment panel from an E46. Seat adjusted fine but steering column adjustment and folding mirror were a no no. He found the right part through Quarry Motors it took about 45 mins to fit and he sold the E46 part on ebay and got most of his money back along with folding mirrors steering column adjustment and memory, win win For the Service Indicator press and hold the left button (under the speedo) Holding the button down turn the ignition to position 1 you will see the word reset come up release the trip button reset will flash press again and it's reset. Or should be 🤣 Great price on the insurance Old Blokes Rule Dave

Morning Paul Welcome to the Forum Take a look at www.realoem.com it is an online BMW Parts List put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will pull up your model, then look in the engine section. Once you find it get the part number in case you need to buy new. Just had a quick look seems to be part 3 for one of them don't see the other unless it is part of another acoustic panel Hope this helps Dave

Morning Bruce Great news. The power steering (according to family members who drive my 4.6is) is heavy, I am used to it and think they are just limp wristed 🤣 The level sensors are a simple job (just make sure the knee joint is pointing at the wheel) The steering column adjustment are you sure it's the motors? If the seat adjustment panel on the drivers seat has been changed and is incorrect it will stop other items working so worth checking that first. My insurance is with the AA but I live in a low car crime area and I am an OLD bloke so insurance is £349 Good Luck Dave

Morning Chantelle Welcome to the Forum A diagnostic scan is needed to find the cause or everyone is guessing. It could be a flaky fuel pump relay or starter relay, it could be a key malfunction, or ignition switch issue? Dave

Then money well spent I would Google search for the nearest BMW Specialist (if you haven't already) as those guys will have the kit to fit everything for you or if you fit it all yourself they will have INPA/ISTA software to code it in for you. Also worth googling BMW Dismantlers (I have found Quarry Motors good) and contact them for the mud flaps Sounds like you have a real beast ENJOY Dave

Morning Gary Welcome to the Forum Everyday is a school day I guess that you are suffering a lack of performance, but what convinced you that the turbos have failed? Before shelling out your hard earned cash on new/refurbished Turbo's is the rest of the engine in good condition? Compression good on all 6 cylinders, injectors in good conditioThn, fuel pressure correct, Oil pump oil, feeds and returns clear, all vacuum lines in good condition. (Teaching Granny to Suck Eggs time) Assuming it is then the turbo chargers are designed to increase the amount of air/fuel mix by forcing it in (compressing it) beyond normal atmospheric pressure) more fuel/air = bigger bang = more power that;s the theory There are two sides to the turbo Exhaust side has a number of Vanes/Fins hot gas from the exhaust manifold moves over them making them spin. More engine revs more gas the faster they go. The exhaust turbine is on a common shaft that at its other end has another turbine with a set of Vanes/Fins as these are being spun at the same speed as the exhaust turbine they draw air in through the air filter forcing it through the intercooler to reduce it's temperature (cooler air is denser a denser fuel/air mix = better performance. Today we can get turbo's with refined Vane technology/design or increased turbine size or number of blades. The theory being they spin up faster and give better performance. There are also Turbo's with variable vane technology (the vane/blade angle can be changed) to give boost from lower revs spreading performance across the rev range. Schools out If you haven't already get a competent mechanic to check the Turbo's and their operation as turbo actuators and their associated pipework can often be the cause of folks thinking the Turbo is gone. When your Googling check the Register of BMW Specialists these are Garages normally run by BMW trained technicians these guys will have the knowledge, tools and software to fix your car. A few websites to help with School if you are not aware already (1) www.realoem.com this is a BMW online parts list, put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model. Then search the sections for what you need, very useful when buying parts and making sure they fit. (2) An American site so the steering wheel is on the wrong side 🤣 www.pelicanparts.com their articles section has comprehensive "How Too's" with pictures that will help understand what is involved in many tasks they also give indicative times for tasks that even if you are paying a garage for its helpful to know whats going on (well I like to know) Hope this is helpful Dave

Hi Chrissy Now you know what BMW stands for Break My Wallet 🤣 So what did you buy for £900 ?? If that is the direction you want to go Google BMW Specialists you should find at least 1 not to far away most of them will be capable if not a ZF service centre may be able to help. While the sport plus software may give faster gear changes it wont be a quicker car. The 535d has loads of grunt in standard format so I would spend my money on a good remap which should put you at around 320 to 350 bhp and 650 to 700 nm of torque and will be a hell of a lot less cost than the bits you have brought. My Brother Inlaw has had 5 5 series touring 2 x 530d 2x 535d and the current 540d xDrive all of his cars have been ECU tuned by a guy in Uxbridge. The 535d were more than capable of embarrassing super cars in the mid range, I was with him in Belgium when a Porsche flew up behind gave him the headlights and horn (both of them were over the 120k limit) he floored it and left the porker for dead we stopped for coffee near Antwerp as we sat with our coffee's and pastries we watched the Porsche pull in near his car 2 guys got out and walked around his beemer looking in the windows trying to get clues as to what it was 🤣 very amusing. His current 540d is mental if I didn't love my 4.6is that is what I would be in. All his cars are BMW serviced from new the only difference is when they visit we do interim oil and filter changes, he keeps the BMW history as he trade his cars with the Dealer when he upgrades. The Dealership has never noticed the ECU upgrades so no Warranty issues Dave

Morning Chrissy Welcome to the Forum As your car is LCI it will have the ZF _ GA6HP26Z - W1E gearbox, there were 2 shifter types (ignore the Steering Wheel thumb shifters for now) The one on the left is the SAT (Sport automatic Transmission) type the gearbox is the same and yes you can reprogram the EGS. The only things you get over and above moving your standard shifter to the left are quicker shift times (Sport +) when changing manually, increased steering weight, and the word sport will illuminate in your clocks. Also quicker downshifts when braking from speed. You can get some of these simply by installing a standalone sport button with standard shifter or slightly more by flashing the EGS module with SAT software. Hope this helps Dave

Morning Bill Welcome to the Forum Obvious question have you asked your local Dealer? Or BMW UK customer services ? Check www.realoem.com it's a BMW online parts list if they are available you should find a part number which may help track it down. If there isn't a part number it may be you have to buy the complete handle. Good Luck Dave

Morning Ian Welcome to the Forum My brother inlaw used the BMW UK website for help connecting his apparently they have some how to Vids (Never bothered me for 2 reasons (1) car is to old, like me(2) Never owned an iPhone) Great car by the way ENJOY Dave

Hi Rick I have given some information in your Welcome post, here is some information just taken from www.realoem.com Supersedes: 16111176506 (01/01/1982 — 09/04/1986), Exchangeable retrospectively 16111117522 (03/01/1975 — 09/09/1983), Exchangeable retrospectively 16111117200 (07/09/1975 — 01/14/1976) Part 16111178881 was found on the following vehicles: 5' E12   (02/1972 — 07/1981) 5' E28   (06/1980 — 08/1990) 6' E24   (10/1975 — 04/1989 The Suction Device Supersedes: 16141153234 (11/13/1980 — 04/29/1987), Exchangeable retrospectively 16121150480 (09/01/1979 — 02/05/1985) Part 16141179424 was found on the following vehicles: 5' E12   (01/1977 — 07/1981) 5' E28   (09/1980 — 08/1990) 6' E24   (10/1975 — 04/1989) The above information will help when talking to either BMW Classic customer support or try some of the BMW Specialist Dismantlers there are several in the UK Dave

Morning Rickie Welcome to the Forum Seems you have a great project on the go Take a look at www.realoem.com in the Classic section put the last 7 Digits of your Vin into the search box, It will call up your model then search the relevant section once you find the part then double click the part number and you should get a list of alternates and other models it was used in which may help. Also contact BMW customer support they have a great Classic section and may be able to help. Good Luck Dave

Morning Dave If you coped with the trans in a CJ the Z3 will be a cinch 🤣 If you aren't aware a couple of useful sites are as said above www.realoem.com it is a BMW online parts website put the last 7 digits of the Vin into the search box it will bring up your model. Then check the relevant section for what you need, if you double click the part number you will get a list of alternate Part numbers and Models it was used in. www.pelicanparts.com a USA site but apart from the steering wheel on the wrong side (😅) their Articles section has some terrific "How Too's" with pictures Hope it works out and you enjoy your Z3 Dave

Morning Sarah An electrical drain can be frustrating to find in any make or model I had an E55 Mercedes that would without apparent reason drain the battery overnight. The Dealer was stumped I was stumped and losing patience with the car. Then I decided to check the Voltage regulator off the car and discovered a Diode (one of 3) in the regulator was faulty. Changed the regulator mystery drain fixed so don't let it beat you. With the battery fully charged bonnet open all doors closed and key out of the ignition wait until the light by the gearstick goes out, then check the voltage at the charging points under the bonnet. Then if you can get access too a Clamp type ammeter measure the drain, it should be in the Milliamp range around 0.5ma if it is higher start isolating systems (pulling fuses) Favourites are the Nav/Radio/etc, Headlamp switch, FSR, Door mirrors (heater elements) Reverse cam or Dash Cam. You need a clamp type ammeter because if you disconnect the battery to put a multimeter in line all systems are shut down (a bit of a hard reset situation) so may not show until the engine has been started and they have run awhile Dave

Morning Dave Welcome to the Forum I have never been under a Manual Z car so I would check www.realoem.com have a look at the transmission section for the proposed car to see if there is an inspection plate on the bell housing, fingers crossed there will be. maybe try to get a bit off the cost in case? If it isn't slipping or making noises drive it and enjoy it General condition of the car will give clues to the life it has led. Fortunately on todays roads volume of traffic tends to mean most cars live a relatively sedate life traffic light racers are few and far between. A friend of one of our sons is into Drift racing he has a specially prepared drift car in 3 years I have helped him service it he has had only 1 clutch issue That was the clutch hydraulic line not the plate or pressure plate which are standard and get beaten up most weekends. A clutch change on the Z3 should be in theory a little easier as the engine is inline, if I were doing the job I would change the Pilot bearing and RMS (Rear Main Seal) and throw out bearing guide and seals while in there. Dave

Morning Varsha Welcome to the Forum Is this a car leased from a BMW Dealer or leased from another source? Was the car New or a Used low mileage car? Either way I would expect the car to have had a thorough PDI prior to delivery to you which you should have a copy of. I would think there should be something there to indicate imminent replacement? I would ask the supplying garage if they find this reasonable ? I would also ask the Lease Company the same question ? Take advice under the sale of goods act as well Dave

Hi Steve I have always used Mann Filters recommended oil is Helix ECT 5-30 fully Synthetic or a good quality equivalent Castrol, Opie, etc you should need 5.5 litres from memory Dave