Greydog

Hi Jimmy Welcome to the Forum Stuck or Locked ? Dave

Hi Matthew My brother inlaw is on his 5th 5 series touring, he has a business in Holland so commutes all over Europe and really racks up the miles. The BMW straight six diesel is as tough as old boots though it does need good maintenance.All his cars have gone beyond 200k, all have had a full BMW history and help from us both in between services. So if it was running sweetly before the issues I am sure it will again. As regards sensors remember BMW buy them in, there are a long list of OEM suppliers so as long as they come from a reputable supplier they should be OK Also remember people have been tuning these motors for 20+ plus years now and have learned a lot. BMW will of course look down their nose and tell you their sensors are special ?? Well the price will be. We put a map sensor on my brother inlaws last but one 535d ordered fro Euro Car Parts gave them the part number they had Bosch in stock price just over half BMW's when it came it was in a BMW box ?? If you are not aware look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin in the search box it will call up your model then check the sections for what you need the small exploded drawings are a help when seeing where stuff fits. When you find the part number for the bit you need/want double click the number and it will call up a list of alternatives and other models it was used on. Turbo actuators and turbo vanes stick so a bit of manual freeing up and copious WD40 can help and as said check all the Vac lines and hoses. Normally you can test a sensor using a multi meter there is plenty of help on line. There may be a member in Lincolnshire who has INPA or BMW 1.4.0 or you could look on Ebay for a copy, I have seen copies for £40 and even already mounted on a Laptop for £150 (about half the cost of a scan at a Dealer) Just be methodical take lots of pictures when dismantling it helps when putting stuff back Good luck Dave

Depending on the Snapon tool you have I thought there was an ABS cycle function on them? Good Luck Dave

Morning Andy Welcome to the Forum If you are hearing the beep have you tried giving an instruction? It should work with Nav, Audio (Radio Etc) and Telephone Check your hand books as some of the commands are limited Hope this helps Dave

Morning Matthew Welcome to the Forum You say you have done the exhaust manifold? Did you replace it with a cast one which is the best way to solve the cracked manifold issue. The code you are seeing as you have discovered is an indication a symptom rather than the issue. A scan with a BMW specific scanner would give more accurate information.. I would back track carefully over all work done making sure everything was correctly fitted and in good condition/order, pay particular attention to all vacuum hoses they can collapse internally causing all sorts of issues. Google the test parameters/method for all the sensors and test their function is correct. Make sure the boost pressure actuator is operating as it should. Don't ignore the Boost hoses and inter cooler hoses Hope this helps not adds to the headache Dave

Morning Darrel Welcome to the Forum Dave

Engine running when pumping the pedal ? When pumping the pedal do you get pressure ? If the reservoir levels didn't drop and allow air in then it must be ABS needs recycling. There is an old trick that may help you pump the pedal to get pressure there and hold it cut a piece of wood that will fit between the pedal and the seat frame, then use the seat adjustment to hold the pressure on the pedal and leave it overnight. Leaving the brakes under pressure can sometimes clear non return valve issues so worth a try if it improves things repeat. Also check the non return valve at the servo if it is faulty it will not help. Dave

Sorry John Not heard of those guys, we are a largely UK based site Ihope you have some luck with them keep us updated Dave

Morning Scott Welcome to the Forum First did you check the reservoir before and during the work? If not it may have dropped allowing air in. Also many makes of car need the ABS unit to be cycled when bleeding the brakes (normally done using the Diagnostic program) What method did you use to bleed the brakes ? Dave

Morning Gareth A scan would be my place to start, your issue could be a failed relay or starter a blown fuse or failing ignition switch even the gearstick inhibitor switch (try starting in N) The fact that the battery disconnect seemed to work as it reset all fault codes temporarily. Get someone with BMW1.4.0 or INPA or a BMW capable Fault reader to scan the car and go from there Good Luck Dave

Morning Gary Yes in the For Sale section

Morning Dotian Welcome to the Forum My wife is a Horse rider so we tow a trailer quite often. She likes to know how the horse/horses are travelling so I fitted a wireless camera inside the trailer which communicates with a tablet. Later I fitted a second backup wireless camera to the trailer that can be used on the same tablet. Both cameras are powered from the trailer lights which are on with my DLR's when I am towing. As for connection to the car when the trailer is plugged in my Park assist and rear view camera are disabled so the tablet was a simple solution. Hope this helps Dave

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Morning Dave Welcome to the Forum I don't think BMW like many others manufacturers supply a spare wheel. They seem to think runflats are enough?? Idid read of a company called "Modern Spare" who produce kits for several makes Google should help. On my X5 I have a bicycle type skinny spare due to the different size front/rear set up I also have a can of tyre goo and a Tyre inflator/compressor. Touches wood I have only used the goo and compressor on a friends car Good luck with the hunt Dave

Does that mean it's fixed Dan ?

Morning Luke Welcome to the Forum You dont say what engine you have ? Check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model. Then check the exhaust section that will tell you what is available from BMW. If there are no OEM square tips then you will have to search the After Market decent quality wont be cheap Good hunting Dave

Maybe ask them to put it in writing then if there is an issue print it on a bat and go visit the Service Manager 🤣 Being serious I would have thought you will be OK even my old X5 managed 3 to 4 weeks when we were away Dave

Morning Paul Welcome to the Forum Not sure what engine size you have but I would think a replacement around the 70 to 90ah range would be OK Check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box, you will see your model called up then look in the relevant section for the information you need. The web site is a BMW online parts list same information that Dealers use. As your car is shall we say "of an age" (bit like me) the battery wont require registering to the chassis so battery type shouldn't be an issue either. A healthy battery should show 12.8v measured at the charging points under the bonnet engine off, 14.5+v engine running Good Luck Dave

Morning David Welcome to the Forum That's a different question !! Where will the car be left? If it is at the airport or home ? As the car is new I would think 2 to 3 weeks will be OK (What do BMW say) if unsure and the car is at home then something like a C-tec intelligent charger left connected at the under bonnet charge points should do the job. Enjoy your new car Dave

Morning Nigel Great result with the re-chroming, the advances the automotive lighting companies have made over the years we all have sealed for life plastic units now !! Good luck with the MOT Dave

Whoop Whoop now it goes like stink hide your licence 😂

All BMW Dealer service and repair information has been Digital since the early 2000's I still think a copy of INPA mounted on a laptop would be a great help to you, good work on the ignition switch Most important ENJOY your Z4 Dave

Hi Keith Welcome to the Forum A friend of our sons has CarPlay in his 1 series I will ask him how as everything looks to be OEM Dave

Hi Shaun Welcome to the Forum First things to check are all the hoses are secure and not split Then check the oil feed to the turbo, if oil has been leaking into the inlet side you may well have EGR issues or oil in the intercooler. If you can't find something loose or split it may be you are in the garages hands. Sorry Dave

Morning Mindaugas First who has said it should have 200+ hp ? Removing the EGR and Swirl flaps will add no power, a remap on a standard and possibly/probably worn engine will (I guess) increase power by between 10% and 20% depending on engine/turbo/injector/exhaust condition. So do you know what your base line was before starting the upgrades? If your car was a Fleet variant it would have come from the factory de-tuned to 150ish HP if it was the top engine spec it would have had 170ish HP The only way to measure would be to ensure the engine/turbo etc is in tip top condition and have a session on a rolling road, then carry out the mods and onto the rollers again. Just taking someones word that you will get X HP doesn't mean it will happen, they will always have a get out that something mechanical is the cause of power loss. Your figure of 235hp would be a 30%+ increase in power on a top spec 177hp engine in good condition. I have tuned a few of my own cars over the years and to see a 30% gain will not be easy or cheap. As Carol Shelby famously said "Speed cost's money so how fast can you afford to go" Sorry if this isn't what you wanted to hear Dave