Greydog

Morning Andy Welcome to the Forum A diagnostic would be the place to start as it could be the footwell control module or Junction Box control module. Before changing the Footwell Module make sure it is the same part number a be aware that this unit also stores a record of the cars mileage so changing it will give a tamper dot beside the mileage on the dash display. So a replacement will need registering to your chassis and recorded mileage entered. Some BMW specialists suck their teeth and make it sound difficult and Dealers ££££££ You just need the help of someone with a good BMW capable diagnostic scanner ISTA/Inpa is best but Autologic Foxwell and several others can do it these days. Good Luck Dave

Morning Iain Welcome to the Forum Simple job swapping the stop/start button should take max 5 minutes. Prize out the existing button using a trim removal tool or a small flat screw driver with some insulation tape stuck on the blade to avoid scratches to surrounding trim. lift the button out and release the plug at the rear plug in the replacement and push it home. Job done Good Luck Dave

Morning Richard Must be the season for it I did exactly the same thing pulled the X off my X5 boot I used a number plate mounting sticky pad that I had in the garage, cleaned the badge cleaned the boot then trimmed the sticky pad to fit That was just over a month ago and 3 wash/polish sessions extra care now around the badges though Dave

Morning Alan Welcome to the Forum I have done this job (or similar seat jammed) on a 5 series. The only way I could figure out was to raise the seat angle at the front the motor that controls front rear movement was on the transmission tunnel side of the seat. The two bolts that hold the motor to the frame can be undone and the motor wriggled back to disengage the drive gear, the seat was then free to move so it could be taken out. Getting under the seat to release the motor was a real faff and high on the cuss list. Don't forget as soon as the seat is raised as high as you can get disconnect the battery to avoid any airbag issues. It goes without saying the job is easy peasy with the seat out. If you aren't aware use www.realoem.com to get the correct part number for replacement, if you have any issues let us know. Dave

Hi David Don't ignore 5, 6, 7 series models of around your cars age they all had ACC as an option as I recall Dave

Afternoon David The Diagram attached is from realoem the list of part numbers corresponds to the diagram also attached below is the list of other models that used the part and the alternate numbers Hope this helps Dave No. Description Supp. Qty From Up To Part Number Price Notes For vehicles with Active cruise control S541A=Yes 01 ACC-Sensor 1 66316777883 $2341.37 02 Bracket f ACC 1 66316769132 $17.80 03 Bracket f ACC 1 66316769133 $6.43 04 Torx bolt ISA M6X18 SW 3 07146959923 $0.55 05 Adjustment equipment 3 66316762520 $1.90 06 Longitudinal dynamic module 1 09/2006 66316775949 $339.45 For vehicles with Active cruise control or Dynamic cruise control S541A=Yes S544A=Yes 07 Body nut ST4,8-9-ZNS3 2 07129904150 $0.25 08 Hex head screw ST 4,8X19 2 07147154286 $1.16 10 Universal socket housing uncoded 18 POL. 1 61138364666 $0.68 only in conjunction with -- Contact bushing MQS with cable 0,5-0,75 MM² AG X 61130056960 -- Universal cover cap, uncoded 18 POL. 1 61138364662 $2.30 Realoem Alternate prt no's.docx

Morning Simon Welcome to the Forum That is a very open ended question BMW themselves fitted everything from a 3 cylinder 1.5l to their mighty 3l straight six engines I guess the main questions are (1) what are you trying to achieve (2) how much work can you take on (3) how deep are your pockets The simple answer is to either refurbish the engine you have or fit a direct replacement that way you minimise the amount of work that would have to be done. Of course it also reduces the damage to your wallet Good Luck Dave

Hi Tim That price tag sounds like a BMW dealer hourly rate If the DPF is completely blocked back pressure in the exhaust could have stopped the engine rotating and caused the chain to jump I have read of it but never seen it in real life. If I recall the camshaft timing chain sprocket is slotted so if the cams are timed so the cam locking tool can be inserted it may be possible to slacken of the chain sprocket bolts and recover the timing. Then refurbished Turbo and and DPF I would be tempted to try that route but as your garage have quoted £6.5k I guess they wouldn't try. I have seen several Refurbished/fitted engines for around the £2k mark there are also BMW specialist breakers who may be able to help with a low mileage replacement I think I would be doing a bit more investigation into the alternatives and their cost before making hard decisions it is your hard earned after all Dave

Hi David Welcome to the Forum How frustrating can they not adapt a sensor from a newer model they must still be able to get them as they still sell ACC systems?? You can check www.realoem.com if you are not aware put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model then check the Distance systems section. If you double click the part number it will give any alternate part numbers that can be used and the models they were used in. Not sure who makes the sensor if you can find out the manufacturers may help. There is a register of BMW Dismantlers I have used Quarry Motors several times for hard to source parts with great success Finally there are companies such as ECU Testing and Cartronix who have been able to bring stuff back to life for me in the past. Good Luck with the Hunt I hope this is of use Dave

Morning Tim Not good ! That is quite a list who diagnosed it ? Clearly the most important is Timing Chain how was this diagnosed, this is the biggest item due to the amount of labour This needs to be measured against cost of a replacement engine/car value DPF can be replaced or cleaned off the car the Turbo likewise can be replaced or serviced I remember reading that in the USA I think there was a Class Action that forced BMW to extend engine warranties worth checking and writing to BMW Customer Services Good Luck Dave

Morning Richard Not so long ago BMW were telling people the Gearbox was "Sealed for Life" this actually meant it didn't need servicing in the first 3 years while they had Warranty responsibility. The manufacturers of most BMW transmissions fitted to rear drive and Xdrive cars are ZF who recommend service/fluid change at either 60k or time dependent due to Transmission Fluid degradation. It seems they now include it in the cars inbuilt service schedule just like Brake Fluid and Coolant change cycles BMW cars with Front Wheel Drive the transmissions are I believe manufactured by Aisin Warner If you are DIY capable Kits to change Fluid and filters are readily available (make sure you use genuine ZF Fluid) If you are reliant on Garage support it doesn't need a BMW Dealer a good Transmission specialist Independent Garage or BMW Specialist can carry out the work Good Luck Dave

Morning Asim Welcome to the Forum Good fun BMW's I have seen two types on 1 series engines 1. A sealed unit BMW called it a "Heat Management Module" mounts above the water pump front of the engine. Just make sure you use the correct coolant when swapping them. 2. Similar unit same location but the Thermostat could be changed again correct coolant is important Your engine should be B38 to check the Thermostat location take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model then search the Engine section. The small exploded drawings will help with location and correct Part Numbers Good Luck Dave

Afternoon Jeff Welcome to the Forum Take care when changing wheels/tyres 225x45x18 were in fact a Factory option for your car so should be fine are they BMW wheels(tip If buying a set complete with tyres make sure wear rates are even) Be aware that 18" and 19" wheels were also offered as a Factory option in staggered sets (wider rears) tyre sizes then became Front 225x45x18/19 Rear 255x40x18/19 If choosing a staggered set allow for new tyres would be my advice to avoid issues As for your bearing noise does it increase with engine speed or remain constant ? I would check the rear prop shaft centre bearing Enjoy your Beemer Dave

Morning Alistair Welcome to the Forum Check your handbook and settings in the iDrive/infotainment system, check the media for any videos that may help with settings If all else fails try your dealer as your car is under Warranty if it isn't something you have done they should fix it Good Luck Dave

If they are a UK registered business you could try the Small Claims Court check out Money Claims on Line I had to resort to using them a few times when in Business straight forward and simple to use with a fixed fee structure don't forget to add interest to what they owe. If they ignore it they end up with a CCJ against the business and you could apply for a Bailiff to be appointed Dave

Hi Julie Welcome to the Forum You seem to have posted in the wrong place X5 Section not the 6 series section so lucky I saw this First thing I would try is a Re-set open the roof fully and then disconnect the battery Neg Lead for at least 15 mins (this is a Dealer trick) If that doesn't clear it then it is likely to be a sensor or possibly the mechanism If you guys don't have DIY skills to fix it try Googling The Register of BMW Specialists there will be one near you, They are normally ex-BMW trained Technicians and should have all the equipment and skills to diagnose and fix the problem Normally they are around half the cost of a BMW Dealer sorry as I am in Sussex I have no recommendations as I have never used any of them. Good Luck Dave

Morning Sepp Welcome to the Forum Sadly they are out there, the many rip off merchants out there who are happy to take our Hard Earned I take it they are not in a country where the courts can act Hope the E30 is still going strong Dave

Well Hello Les Welcome to the Forum Hope your enjoying your Beemer Dave

Morning Jeff Welcome to the Forum First congratulations on getting as far as you have 😁 many throw up their hands and replace the Information display with an after market Android unit. I guess you have checked www.realoem.com to make sure part numbers are compatible but you may also need an enabling code for full functionality (BMW guard them like state secrets) another reason many go the Android route Keep going let us know how if you reach a fix Dave

Morning George Well if memory serves you have two one is tank mounted with the pump and one is under the floor hidden behind the under shielding. The one under the floor is the one normally changed at service time. Take a look at www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model, then look at the fuel system section. The small drawings will help with location You tube or similar may help with a video, or try www.pelicanparts.com their articles section has some great how too's with pictures. While they may not have an M140i a lot of models the filter will be in the same position I have never worked on a 140i but like many other models the fuel filter will be hidden behind the under body plastic shields. It is a job that is often missed even by some garages due to it being hidden. Not difficult just one of those time consuming fiddly jobs due to having to remove the under body shields. Make sure you have a catch tray under the filter to catch fuel that drains out when you disconnect it Good Luck hope this helps Dave

The More I read about this issue the more I am convinced that involving the Media (Rogue Traders or Rip Off Britain) will be the only way forward for you Guys Dave

Morning Robert Welcome to the Forum Noises are sometimes a pain to track down, so to start some questions (1) Manual or Auto ? (2) Does it get louder with increased revs ? I would start with the belts and pulleys at around a 100k they will need checking/changing anyway, so first a visual inspection of the belt is it in decent condition. Next, pulleys put a squirt of WD40 into the centre of the pulley where the bearing is. Do not drown it or get any on the belt. If the issue is with a failing pulley (often the tensioners) when the offender is lubricated the noise will quieten or disappear. If it is a pulley I would change belt and the offending item Have the Brakes been checked ? it could be a sticking pad rubbing Good luck tracking it down Dave

Morning Sam Welcome to the Forum That looks very tasty ENJOY Dave

Morning Corey Welcome to the Forum Sadly the only way to be sure of your engine is physical investigation, unfortunately that is costly in labour if your paying a garage as they pretty much have to strip the bottom end of the engine to investigate the pump bearings and journals. Some hard decisions ahead, have the garage rebuild the bottom end of your engine or fit a reconditioned engine and all of that measured against the cars value Good Luck Dave

Morning Nadeem The part you purchased is listed as an Exchange Diff normally only supplied through Dealers? However as it is listed for your car it should be the correct ratio and work fine. No more strange noises I hope? Diff oil I normally buy from a Dealer as I haven't found prices else where that different Here's to the next 150k 😆 Dave