Greydog

Morning Andrew The attached drawing is from www.realoem.com it seems to show you are infact missing a connection (item 6) Dave

Morning Darren Welcome to the Forum To be fair we don't see to many Mini questions which actually points to them being pretty reliable Get a good BMW/Mini capable Diagnostic reader they are well worth it BMW INPA/ISTA is best obviously as it gives dealer level access plus Workshop Information and many other functions. There are several alternatives these days iCarsoft, Autoligic, Foxwell are a few others www.realoem.com is an online Parts List if you enter the last seven digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model then search the sections for what you need. Having the correct part number means what ever you buy will fit (obviously) but also allows a good search for best prices. There is also a Register of BMW Specialists in case a Garage is needed and a Register of BMW Specialist recyclers Normal buying rules apply Condition, History, History and History make sure everything works I mean everything if all good then I hope you enjoy your Mini Dave

Morning Paul realoem no help ? Dave

I can't add anything here as I have rarely left any of my cars for extended periods, and when I have I use my Ctec with a plug timer set to come on 12hrs before my return. We used a solar charger on the Horse Lorry for a while but it was never really successful (that was quite a few years back though) Dave

Hi Kevin Best of luck negitiating with the Chancellor 🤣 we have all been there 🤣 A good possibility the mirror may have been changed, my brother inlaw had a guy on a bike catch his shoulder bag strap on his nearside mirror, his car was stopped in traffic cyclist passing on the nearside at pace tore the mirror almost off. By the time he got out of the car the guy on the bike was gone !! BMW ordered a complete replacement Mirror you don't want to go that route Dave

Morning John You tried hard and it didn't work so ENJOY your (new to you) Merc Dave

Morning Kevin Both my X5's (UK Spec) do indeed have both mirrors dimming plus the interior mirror. Using a Vin Decoder will let you know what your car was odered with. It is very possible that a mirror glass has been damaged and replaced with a standard glass (I have known a Dealer do this). Once you know what should be there you have a choice as to whether you replace the mirror glass or live with what you have I don't know if they are readily available on the after market but I guess that from BMW they will be order only and not cheap Hope this Helps Dave

Morning Dennis Welcome to the Forum Is that 3 months in a block or over the 12 month span ? My only thought would be is a new car actually necessary or is a low mileage second user car the way to go (it would work for me) The main issues folks have with low use cars are Battery related so if you don't have one get a good battery trickle charger and make sure the Battery is Tip Top particularly when it's cold like this morning Dave

Hi Stewart Welcome to the Forum Rather than try an additive which increases viscosity I think I would have changed the Oil Pressure switch first. Then maybe the Pressure relief valve on the oil pump needs invetigating, after all oil is the life blood on your car. Fingers crossed it is a genuine fix for you remember you can use higher viscosity oils 5-40 instead of 5-30 Dave

Hi Jay You will need a Diagnostic Program to turn off an Airbag light if someone has triggered the light that could also be the issue Dave

Hi David Welcome to the Forum A Vin decoder is a useful tool as it lets you know what was on the original cars build sheet but that only tells you what toys it should have. As its a 2021 car it will have had one MOT which hopefully is clear of any advisories, you can check recall and MOT at www.gov.uk/check-mot-history Next check all tyres are correct and in good condition odd or mismatched tyres can cause havoc with Transfer cases Transmissions and diffs. The rest is History History History plus making sure everything works as it should Good Luck Dave

From Memory you have a Fuse box under the Bonnet, the main one behind the Glove box and one in the boot You should find a fuse layout folded in one of the boxes Fingers crossed it's a simple fix (Fuel Pump Relay) Good Hunting Dave

Morning Andrew Welcome to the Forum looks like your missing a module rear camera or PDC could be a Towing Module Not sure about BCM (I assume this is Body Control Module?) BMW 1.4.0 or ISTA/INPA should/normally show Greyed out Modules as not communicating allowing indentification of Failed units The Footwell Control Module was a common issue on several models and a simple change whether you go new or recycled it will cause a Tamper Dot by the mileage, so your new unit will need to be registered to your chassis and the mileage matched to your car. Junction Box Electroncs is the next biggy mainly due to where it is situated. Dont forget check or better still change the Fuel Pump Relay one of the common faults Also disconnect the modules check the connectors for signs of corrosion on pins give every thing a clean and spray of electrical contact cleaner and put it back. I have fixed several this way. Good Luck Dave

Morning Marvin You need a Diagnostic Scan with a BMW capable system , I assume that when the Footwell control module and and Battery were replaced they were correctly registered to your chassis ? Has your Mechanic checked the starter solenoid ? much cheaper than a starter Hope this helps Dave

Morning John Did Bert refill the paddling pool ? Dave

As an "Old Bloke" (big 80 has been and gone) I just dont see cutting corners as saving money ?? over a very long driving life I have owned many many cars I have always maintained my own cars (mix of maintaining Dealer Warranty and self). At one point when in business my cars were changed on a mileage basis but after retirement did I want to spend £50k+ on a new car, NO! so My BMW X5 4.6is and may wifes Subaru Outback 3.0 (2003 and 2004) were the last. The X5 and the Subaru are still going strong both around 160k and maintained by me in my Home Garage everything on both cars works as it should (as an aside both cars have had engine upgrades and give 400+whp) both cars are and have been 100% reliable. As the 4.6is is quite rare in the UK 3 years ago I brought a cheap 3.0d X5 and after fixing the bodges I have a reliable and economical X5 to tow with and stop the mileage building on the 4.6 Wrong coolant can do as much damage as no coolant as can a stuck or no thermostat (longer warm up times using more fuel) I agree with using recycled parts to save money just never Tyres Brakes or Suspension parts they are all that is between you and a ditch Dave

Morning Max You should have access to the Live terminal (Red Cap) the Neg terminal is on the inner wing (Large Nut) Information should be in your handbook Hope this helps Dave

Morning Stu Long time since I played with a straight six so the old memory might be wonky here so check realoem From memory it is linked to the Air Pump and Vacuum control system. Find the Airpump and follow the Vac lines to the rear of the engine you should find a valve with a plug on top (or end) first make sure all lines are good no splits or cracks check the valve is operating, dont forget there is a non return vale in the system close to the inlet manifold. Hope this helps Dave

Morning Vic New one to me but I guess anywhere there is a joint is suspect. Like the seals around the rear lights that suddenly start to leak, removing them a good clean and renewing the seals seems to work. Check www.realoem.com to see what is fitted and how Dave

Morning Billy When was the car last serviced ? The symptoms you describe could be due to an air or vacuum leak, old hoses seals and vacuum lines can start to crack when cold they are stiff and don't leak (as much) when hot and flexible you see the issue developing. Your OBD Scanner needs to be BMW capable a standard scanner will only see critical functions. Dave

As I understand the wiring diagrams and operation Item 9 on the thermostat housing is the sensor which sends its signal to the ECU for interpretation with information from the map sensor. Information from item 12 (1st drawing ) is also used to provide average temp across the cooling system. As far as I am aware the Thermostst is independent of the sensors and operated by expanding wax material internally

Errr not clear here Donald Plastic "L's" with short rubber hoses ??? Distilled water/Ionised water should only be used in an old style lead acid battery. The Rad and engine coolining system should be filled with the correct coolant mix to prevent cavitation and the danger of freezing in low temps. Coolant should be part of the cars regular maintenance and changed every 3 years or so. At that time all hoses and connectors should be inspected and changed where necessary to keep everything in tip top condition. Changing parts can cause as many problems as you may think your solving

What's Brazillian for BIG THUD 🤣🤣 Dave

Morning Andrew I normally disconnect the Neg lead only, some folks disconnect both a few even say disconnect both and touch them together. Goes without saying both sensor plugs need to be checked and a squirt of contact cleaner applied never hurts 😅 Dave

Not sure what engine your running but there should be a Temp sensor in the Hose from the Rad to the water pump then there should be a Temp sensor in the housing for the Thermostat Both are shown in realoem for the 3.5 V8 I thought the V8 was the only one with dual use sensor on the Thermostat housing but stand to be corrected Dave