Greydog

Morning Aaron Everyday is a school day 😁 Never come across this before so time for some home schooling It appears that there is no physical sim card instead there is a soft sim (software based) so you can't just remove the sim. I am assuming all other functions are operating normally? Do you have access to a BMW Diagnostic suite ? Something like iCarsoft or Foxwell or maybe ISTA/INPA a scan may give a better clue as to where the issue is. I have a feeling that your combox is at fault I would talk to guys like Cartronix, ECU Testing and BBA Reman if they can test and repair it may save a lot of issues. Swapping for another Combox may need re-coding which will require either the software or the help of a BMW Specialist Just a thought here, your phone connects by bluetooth so logically if the cars antenna were disconnected it should stop the combox calling (no aerial) while your mobile would use it's internal antenna so would still work. Not a fix but may be a short term work around Dave

Hi Aaron Do you use www.realoem.com ? I would first use a BMW Vin decoder plenty online so you can call up your cars build sheet Then use realoem use the last 7 digits of your vin into the search box it will bring up your model then search the communications section Just remembered your Vin is above so took a look, it seems your model was available with a range of types 1. COMBOX Media Part No 84109257150 S644A Yes S6FLA Yes S6VCA Yes 2.COMBOX for Telematics Part No 84109257151 S606A Yes S609A Yes S633A Yes S6VCA Yes COMBOX Telematics for GPS Part No 84109257152 S633A Yes S6VCA Tes There are also versions of ULF and Telematic units so in my quick look it seems the removable battery is in the Telematics control unit. I am Using the Decoder it appears you have S609 Nav with S633 Telephone so the Part No on the Comboz should be as 2 above not sure about the Optical link I will dig a little Dave

That sounds great Andy at least you will have a clear picture of what is going on. Fingers crossed the O2 sensor will be the fix, I am told that the Temp sensors rarely go wrong (that is tempting the Gods) When you get your software set up on your first scan you are likely to see what appear to be loads of issues. Clear all faults then rescan. Dave

Morning Clive Sorry didn't pick up the Non Start issue have you traced it? Is the car going to sleep (shutting down completely) ? The seat issue there are 3 motors in the seat base and depending on the seat type two or three in the backrest. When I had an issue with the seat control it was quicker and cheaper to just change it out for a replacement from a BMW recycler. Make sure you check the seat loom in case there is a short somewhere. Remember www.realoem.com should help with where stuff fits Dave

Morning Clive You do know BMW stands for Breaks My Wallet 🤣 If you can hear it running but no movement it could be the pump for the side bolsters or lumber adjustment. I would sit in quick while it is running you should feel any movement in them. If so it could be the switch stuck or failing Dave

Thanks Aaron

Hi Andy A faulty exhaust gas temperature sensor can negatively affect a vehicle’s after-treatment system, resulting in the following symptoms: Check engine light: if the ECU detects a problem with the sensor or signal, it will trigger the check engine light to come on. Reduced fuel efficiency: if the sensor relays incorrect voltages, the DPF regeneration process can take longer, resulting in increased fuel usage. Unnecessary DPF regeneration: faulty sensors can also lead to unnecessary regenerations, causing inconvenience to the vehicle owner. Failed emissions test: a false reading can cause the EGR system to malfunction, without triggering the check engine light. This can result in an emissions test fail. Component failure: increases in exhaust temperatures can also contribute to the premature failure of other exhaust or internal engine components. These sensors are not cheap (around £150 each) so if you can't test them yourself get the help of an Auto Electrician or Garage the O2 sensor would be about the same cost. Dave

I believe the Telematic/Combox is coded to your chassis so fingers crossed there is no fault or issue with the unit it's self. Looks like you have access to the right software. The battery could well be at fault after 10 years so worth getting it checked/changed if you can't DIY. Looking at your original scan it has a code for E call triggered plus Ecall assist not available ? May be unplugging the unit changing the battery then reconnecting may reset it ? If not more digging Good luck Dave

Morning Aaron All those codes are to do with the Telematics unit. I did read some time ago about a battery change not being done correctly and not registered triggering Connected drive faults. But for the life of me I cant remember exactly what now. You could try the old Dealer trick of Disconnecting the Battery for 15mins (remove the Neg lead) Just make sure the car is shut down first so open the boot remove the key and leave it the Gearshift light will go out after about 10mins the car is then shut down. Dealers use this as a kind of reset. You could also unplug the Telematic unit and get it checked or replace it. Dave

Hi Aaron Then its a Connected drive issue Connected Drive has it's own Sim Card. Did you renew your Connected Drive subscription ? If so BMW should sort it for you, if not then you may have to dig into the Idrive menu's to turn it off Dave

Hi Andy I would investigate the low rail pressure could be as simple as a fuel filter that's never been changed (yep when I changed mine it still had the manufacturing date on it and should have been changed twice before I got to it !! Coding out the EML will be an automatic MOT failure as the EGR is cycling my bet is the O2 sensor is on the way out Dave

Hi Aaron Welcome to the Forum Is it in BMW Connected drive ? Or is your regular Bluetooth ? My guess is something in Connected Drive check your handbook and the Connected Drive settings on Idrive Dave

Afternoon Andy Lets see now, Air mass per cylinder 516.73 Seems OK ambient pressure 1004.31 mbar This will change with weather (High/Low Pressure) and altitude Boost pressure actual value 1033.85 I take it this is at tick over ? Coolant temperature 81.24 Should be between 80 and 90 degC Duty cycle boost plate 94.52% Looks OK Duty cycle of exhaust gas recirculation 86.65% Shows your EGR is cycling Engine speed689.56 1/min Tick over/Idling speed should rise if AC is on Injection quantity 5.91 mg/Hub Not sure if this is right as Injector condition/fuel rail pressure will have an effect on the Atomization and Volume of fuel Pedal value generator 0.00% Throttle closed Rail Pressure Is 267.82bar This seems on the low side TIS says it should be around 448 bar Remember I don't have a diesel, but I would say it starts and runs OK with a smooth tick over. with low fuel pressure performance will be down though Hope this is a help Dave

Sounds like you will have the Bells and Whistles then Gav My brother Inlaw found the Display Key just to bulky when he had his Mobile, Wallet and Keys that lot with the Display Key was a pocket buster. Hope you really enjoy your new motor when you get it. Dave

So we are lead to believe, that E10 will be fine in all engines Mark But then again when Unleaded was introduced it took over a year and many claims before the Fuel Companies decided it wasn't good for engines designed to run leaded fuel?? So they had to keep leaded at the pumps for quite a few years. Me I will put Octane booster in every few tanks 😁 Dave

Morning Marie Hope you got Home safe and sound If you didn't recovery would have been my advice, could be something at the front, belt pulley etc. Or a hose or seal on the turbo Oh and Welcome to the Forum Dave

Morning Andrew If you can email the information send a PM and I will give you my email address if that doesn't work write it down here in the order its shows and post it. I will see if I can make sense of it. Dave

Morning Gav Welcome to the Forum Great choice of car Enjoy Do you have a large key device (about the same size as an old Motorola Flip phone) that is the display key. My Brother Inlaw has it with his 535d Touring his description is a cool show off toy that stays in the draw at home due to it being so bulky he has the BMW App on his phone that gives just about the same access I think the remote parking is about the only thing that he needs the Display Key for, all showy stuff in reality used once or twice. Check the Idrive Screen for the Display Key app, If it's there but you don't have the key !!! Lord knows what BMW charge for a new Display key or what the Faff would be if it has to registered to your chassis. Dave

Morning David Don't just stick with your local Dealer prices will vary across the Dealer Network I have always found Cotswold BMW really competitive and they do Mail Order. Dave

Morning Kieron Check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model. Search the sections for the part/part number you want then use the Internet to source what you need. I haven't tried to repair an Amp but I am sure many have if you have the right equipment. There is a Company called Cartronix who are well known (don't know costs) plus I am sure others like ECU Testing and BBA Reman who may help or just replace with a reclaimed part seen them for £50/£60 on ebay. Good hunting Dave

Morning David Welcome to the Forum Terrific car ENJOY First go to www.realoem.com it's an online BMW Parts list put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will call up your model. Then search the relevant section there are small exploded drawings to help identify where stuff fits once you have the Part Number then try your friendly BMW Dealer (don't stick with just one prices vary) also check the Internet and the specialist BMW dismantlers. Dave

Hi Mark Have you tried BMW UK they have a Classic's Register give them your Vin they can run it and give you the full run down Dave

Morning GB This gets dafter As far as I can ascertain if you are in "Ecopro" power to the heated mirrors, demisters, seats is reduced with screens taking priority. In Comfort mode it seems normal service is resumed !! Now for the really Daft bit apparently if your wipers are on the mirrors will demist !!! Seems this debate has been rumbling along for ages with i3 owners Dave

Hi Mark Welcome to the Forum If your car is a genuine manual 330ci M Clubsport it is indeed rare as the "Howmanyleft" web site shows 6 registered for the road and 1 sorn. Auto's show 143 licensed and 57 sorn. The same site shows Registrations for Autos beginning in 2002 while Manual Registrations don't begin until 2005 with 3 Registrations Unforunately the site shows the 330ci Clubsport with currently 363 Licensed and 158 Sorn. So if yours is 2003 it appears to indicate it is a Clubsport still rare just not as rare as the M Clubsport version, damn tasty motor all the same. My own E53 X5 4.6is was only produced for sale in the UK for 2 years with peak registrations at 840 odd and around 200 odd left, difficult to tell now as the site lumps the 4.6 and 4.8is models together, it's a keeper though. Hope this helps Dave

Hi Andy I would first block the Vac line to the solenoid, that way if other control need a confirmation signal from the swirl flap solenoid then they still get it. If all runs OK and your back to "normal" no faults or lights, you have a choice unplug the solenoid if it has no effect remove it or just leave it where it is. Dave