Greydog

Hi From the pictures the screen is mounted in a rubber seal which would indicate that it is a standard model with an M sport package, that would be Sport Suspension and Brakes, M Sport steering wheel and gearshift plus M sport badges. The "Holy Grail" E30 M3 the screen is glued in, are the wheels 4 or 5 stud? Control arms should be aluminium. You could contact BMW UK, BMW have a classic register so give them the Vin number and they should be able to trace it from build/order which will give you a more complete history. Like everything today BMW are "upgrading" the Data base so there may be some delays, be ready. Dave

That looks like a heavy tint and looks just like film bubbling to me Can you feel the them inside?

Yes quite safe Trevor. Speed rating H is 130 MPH up to Y at 186 MPH I don't know of a stretch of road in the UK that isn't so clogged with traffic you would need the worlds fastest bulldozer in front clearing the way 🤣 Dunlop were good tyres on the X5 Continentals seemed to wear quickly as did the Bridgestone. The original Michelin (2 sets) were good as are the current Yokohama Enjoy Dave

When in the garage and I get that "what next" thought the beer fridge always helps 🤣

Hi Alan Welcome Back 😁 Heat one side (why is it always the drivers feet that get cold ??) That will be the twin solenoid (splitter) in the engine bay. I assume you have checked the vent flaps are moving. Lumpy after clutch release ? Could be DMF issue ? Thermostat is a definite culprit for slow warm up and as it seems you need to change the twin solenoid you may as well change the Stat while in there 😅 I never turn my AC off so but not unusual to need AC to knock back humidity to clear the screen. Certainly once the car is warming up faster you may find the Stop/Start operates more consistently. A scan may help Good luck Dave

Morning Dan The oil pressure switch is on the Oil Filter housing and normally pretty much trouble free, the Thermal Oil level sensor in the sump is often a PITA The oil pressure switch/sensor could have been triggered by low voltage The fuel filter is often "forgotten/ignored" at service even by Main Dealers so good spot. Dave

Morning Damian Unfortunately there are many such poor quality products surfacing, and they aren't cheap The old saying "Buyer Beware" springs to mind sorry you got caught thanks for the Heads Up Dave

Morning Jim I have read about the Resler interface but as mine is all still OEM and all working Having said that from memory (always dangerous at my age) First you need the Ibus app on your Android device (you used to have to purchase a Licence) Again from memory the Resler needs connecting to the main Quadloc connector (i do remember there being install instructions with pictures) How many USB ports are on your Xtron Head unit ? I think you need a clean USB port so maybe if you have 2 USB ports available put a USB Hub on one and save the other for the Resler? In the early days of the Resler there were quite a few who fried the interface by wrong connections so double check before applying power. Good Luck interesting project Dave

My car is ALL OEM and the rear windows, side and back are film tinted I cant see yours or the issue you are trying to describe a picture may help ?? Your original post seemed to describe bubbling in the film yet above you say cracked ?? Dave

Hi Trevor Mine came with Michelin Diamaris which like wise became like chickens teeth to find. So over the years (7 or 8 sets of tyres) I have fitted Continental, Bridgestone, Dunlop and Yokohama always changed in sets. Mine are 275x40x20R Front 315x35x20R Rear Summer wheels. I run 255x50c18R Front and Rear Winter wheel set The fact that you have had to replace the actuator indicates there have been issues with tyres (transmission wind up causes local stripping of the nylon actuator gear) I would guess the previous owner has had either worn suspension or damage that has caused abnormal rear tyre wear rather than correct it they fitted new rear tyres. This caused a rolling radius imbalance (I have heard 6mm difference) which then starts to stress the actuator through trans wind up. Any odd tyre wear is normally a sign of worn suspension bushes allowing alignment changes (worn inner edges rear with outer edges on the front) BMW like other manufacturers of AWD's have "recommended" Tyre manufacturers particularly those with staggered set ups (BMW, Mercedes,Audi) so any tyre manufacturer on BMW,s list normally the tyres are within the tolerances needed to protect the transmission. Dave

realoem will be the place to check. Logic dictates that cams are probably standard 2.5 and 2.8 engines as the valve sizes are the same, with Vanos timing being the difference. The 3.0 engines may have longer duration cams (it still has the same valve sizes) but if you are fitting a complete assembly the ECU should be able to adjust and cope. Dave

Depends on the strength of tint, my X5 has tinted screen and front door windows the rear is limo tint and is a film, that was how it came from the factory. Dave

Morning Matt Sounds as though the tint film is lifting, maybe find a window tinting company to see if they can help? Dave

Morning Tovi Welcome to the Forum I believe Oil is 0-30 Fully Synthetic Coolant sounds right check www.pelicanparts.com they should have all the information you need. Great car ENJOY Dave

Morning Trevor I am 3 years ahead of you age wise Is there a reason you are changing just the rears? Tyres : Different tyre manufacturers while construction is similar tread and final finish will vary the finished size, so if you were to take tyres of the same size from 2 different manufacturers make a chalk mark on the floor and the bottom of 1 tyre then roll it forward 1 revolution and mark the floor, then repeat there is a high chance that the distance will differ in some cases significantly. So say the difference in distance covered by 1 is 25mm greater, doesn't sound much but in a mile that tyre will make 7 or 8 fewer revolutions which if it is across an axel may be absorbed by the Diff. But if front wheels are not travelling the same distance as the rear then there can be damage caused to the transfer case and diffs. So BMW (and all AWD manufacturers) take great care in selection of tyres and manufacturers to ensure front rear rolling radius's are consistent. BMW also advise changing sets (not always practical) but normally all 4 wear at a similar rate unless alignment is out or of course there has been damage to a tyre. OEM supply for your car was either Dunlop SP Sport 01 or Pirelli Rosso Asimm Currently BMW approved tyres include Michelin Latitude, Bridgestone, Yokohama. Pirelli Cinturato. (my X5 runs 20" Staggered and currently on Yokohama tyres) So try to stick to the same manufacturer (ie: Pirelli) as you will have a better chance of maintaining the rolling radius. After they are fitted reverse on full lock slowly if there is jerking and snatching while reversing it indicates a potential problem with wind up in the transmission. Dave PSL I do most of my own car maintenance as well as family and friends always been a "hobby" the only concession to age is things take a bit more planning and sometimes take longer (more tea, coffee and beer breaks) Plus I rope in my sons (younger and bendier) for certain jobs. I do use a BMW Specialist for annual service and on the odd occasion when I either don't have time or (rarely) the inclination

Morning Trevor Welcome to the Forum From the tyre size you quote I take it that your tyres are same size front and rear? Cars with a staggered set up (Wider rear tyres) generally are more susceptible to transmission damage due to mismatched rolling radius in the tyres front to rear or across axels. The important thing is that front to rear rolling radius isn't significantly different, I would think that the Pirelli replacement for the the Rosso's would be fine if going to another manufacturer I would take greater care. Dave

Morning Sam Welcome to the Forum I believe that there are 3 fuses that control interior lights. Check your handbook on my Brother inlaws 535 Touring they are 28,42,54 You will need to check what yours are (handbook again) can you not call up your handbook in the iDrive? Dave

Hi Roger Obviously difficult to diagnose blind but throwing parts at the problem is an expensive way to fix it. When you put the key in the ignition and turn it do the dash lights come on? If they do try putting the car in Neutral and starting (could be the inhibitor on the gearshift) It could be the Power Relay or the Starter Relay. Have all main power fuses been checked? Under the bonnet(Hood) you should have a couple of charging point connections can you measure power there? To be sure you need a diagnostic scan by someone with a BMW capable diagnostic program. A good website for you is wwwpelicanparts.com they have an excellent reputation a great help section and How Too's with pictures. Hope this helps Dave

Morning Roger Welcome to the Forum Great choice of car by the way, are you a DIY home mechanic or do you rely on a Garage for help? Dave

Morning Dennis Welcome aboard Dave

Morning Mags Welcome to the Forum I take it you have BMW's Evo system? Your BMW dealer is really saying is "it's something I know nothing about and can't be bothered to find out" sadly you will find folks like this in all manufacturer Dealerships no matter what the make. The truth is the first conversions are by third party companies and from what I have read are very good and not difficult to fit. From what I have read there are 2 types of system (1) Replaces the existing NBT/EVO system and requires Chassis registration. I have read that getting the bluetooth working can be a faff but not difficult. (2) Is an add in box that integrates with the onboard system and requires no coding. System 1 has Navigation bult in system 2 allows Google maps or your phones nav to be used I am passing on what I have read on some technical forums and have not practically experienced either system, however when BMW introduced their first iBus system (late 90's) there were many "cant be done" comments from dealers. Fortunately the world is full of inquisitive engineers who had hacked the iBus system and made it possible to fit 3rd party upgrades before system was a year old. As time went on they got better and better and easier to fit. Same with the NBT/EVO system. So look outside the BMW Dealer Network, Google what your looking for and find what you want talk to the supplier before purchase to ensure you are getting what you want then go for it. Dave

Morning Graham Does your service history show any battery change? As the label indicates it is a BMW fitted part, by the part numbers it may be the original so it could well be 14 years old 😲 The Voltage readings seem to show a battery in reasonable condition though at 14 starting current could be giving it a beating. Before jumping in and changing the battery check the engine earth strap and all connections at the starter motor. Magnetti starter motors did have a reputation for pulling huge current as they age so if can get access to a clamp ammeter measure the draw at start. I have seen reports of 800+amps. Dave

Morning Mike Welcome to the Forum Some information on Engine and mileage would assist? You say the car was overheating? Obvious thought is head gasket, did the garage carry out a pressure test and sniff test in the Header Bottle? You say you cam smell the antifreeze that to me suggests it is either dripping on the exhaust or if your model is turbo charged a hot turbo. Dave

Morning Patryk Welcome to the Forum The battery was disconnected (Earth connection) when you were carrying out the work? When you recharged the Battery you did charge it from the charging points under the bonnet ? If the battery was not disconnected and you charged it at the battery you could have caused issue's with several units due to a surge in current. If the battery is (a) OK (get it checked) (b) Make sure it is fully charged, by either charging OFF the car or from the charging points under the bonnet. Check there isn't a voltage drain. Then disconnect the battery (Neg first) and leave for 1/2 and hour while disconnected re-check the battery voltage (12.8v or close) anything below 12v indicates a dying battery. If all good re-connect the battery this should reset any units that were Off Line if not the a diagnostic scan is required. Dave

Hi Kenny Sorry been out shooting (1st day of the Pheasant season) Yes looks that way If you find the part you want and double click the part number you normally get a list of other applications/models just like the one above Dave