Greydog

Welcome to the Forum Paul First thought is the thermostat correct and working ? Next you have changed the water pump, is it fitted correctly is it's rotation correct? How much coolant went in? (should be between 8.5 and 10 ltrs) Was the heater set to max and engine running cap off to bleed any air out of the system? Lastly the fan sensor and wiring need checking (I believe the sensor is in the bottom hose) Dave

Morning Kenny The gearbox has its built in Mechatronic control unit which receives signals from the EGS controller. The EGS gets information from the DDE on engine RPM Throttle Position etc plus other units ABS ASC Normally the DDE, EGS EWS and LCM are all fitted at build and rarely changed. When you scan it the EGS will/should give any fault information on some models even condition of Trans Fluid. Both the EGS and Mechatronic unit can have their programs updated, The ZF specialist local to me did mine several years back while servicing the box. Dave

Hi Daniel Welcome to the Forum From memory there are 2 earth straps the main one is on the right engine mount to the chassis. I haven't done this on a Diesel but it should be in the same place you may have to remove the splash guards to get at it. There is also a secondary strap on the exhaust towards the back of the car. Hope this helps Dave

Morning Brendon Welcome I am not sure but I think the I drive versions of Navigation only show the selected POI on the map in use, once you turn off it resets. One of the other's with more up to date Nav systems than mine (still steam driven) will be along to help. Dave

That is all good news then Kenny 😁 all back together by Lunch time 😂 Soon you will be driving the automotive equivalent of George Washington's axe it's had 47 Handles 7 Heads but still the "Original" axe 🤣🤣 A real top man Kenny you will end up with a superb machine Dave

Morning Kenny ZF Part is the same but check the loom connections just in case BMW have done something sneaky at the connectors. If you are not changing the Gearbox Control unit all should be good with no coding issues. As the box is out are you changing the Torque converter ? If yes, I would make sure the torque converter is rated for the 535 as it has a significant torque increase to handle. I would also check with ZF or a ZF Agent to see if any software upgrades are available for the box. I had this some years ago with a box change on a Volvo T6 V70 with a box from a Volvo T6 S80. I just swapped the box loom for the one on the original box, my Volvo Agent said "Cant be Done" but strangely was happy to upgrade the software 😁 Good Luck Dave

Hmmmn Good Old BMW Dealer A quick look at realoem tells me that the Roll bar for you car is also used on the F45LCI F46 F48 and Mini Clubman F54 while the M235 roll bar was used on F39 F40 F44 and two Mini's the Clubman F54 and Countryman F60 Mind my BMW Dealer told me that "someone" had fitted "Non""standard parts to my X5 that could make it unsafe to drive !!! The non standard parts are Poly bushes I asked him if they were unsafe why were BMW use them on their BTCC cars ? No answer not mentioned again. Dave

Morning Brian Normally the Vin Decoder will give a list of codes (left column below) that identify the equipment to be fitted as (a) Standard and (b) Customer order S806A BMW Third Brake Light SZP1A BMW Performance brake system SZP2A BMW Performance air-induction system SZP3A BMW Performance muffler system SZP4A BMW Performance shift travel reduction SZP5A BMW Performance suspension In realoem is there a different roll bar Part No for the M version ? My wife's Subaru Outback is heavily modified, Olin adjustable suspension all round 356mm 6 pot front brakes and a 3.0 Perrin engine ride is on the hard side. My X5 4.6is is all BMW OEM and the ride is OK on good roads Harsh on most roads Dave

There seems to be 3 posts here all relating to the same Issue/Car Simple answer is as you recently purchased the car it is the Dealers responsibility under the sale of goods act to supply a car that is fit for purpose. Take it back to the Dealer Dave

There seems to be 3 posts here all relating to the same Issue/Car Simple answer is as you recently purchased the car it is the Dealers responsibility under the sale of goods act to supply a car that is fit for purpose. Take it back to the Dealer Dave

Hi Samantha Welcome to the Forum My X5 is fitted with reverse camera and PDC system and my daughter told me "Dad they are a waste of money there is always a thud when your to close" Sadly that isn't a joke bless her. So your problem, the BMW PDC system is fussy but great when it works. You may need the help of a willing assistant depending on how hands on you are but no special tools are needed. On your model all sensors can be got to without removing stuff the fact you don't get a Beep when selecting reverse may need some digging though? do you get warning bongs/beeps if you leave a door open or lights on? If yes that's good news. Next with the use of your willing assistant remove the boot floor spare wheel cover and spare wheel, then udo the 2 nuts and 2 bolts holding the suspension compressor down and carefully prop it up at the back of the back seat. You will now be looking at the battery, BM54 radio, TV unit (on the right if fitted) look down nearest the back of the car you should see a control unit with 3 plugs on the top Blue White and Black. Question does your car have a tow bar? If it does you should have an extra control unit alongside the main PDC controller this disconnects the rear sensors when the trailer plug is inserted. So sensors front and rear are the same. The simple thing would be a diagnostic scan which would identify which if any components were duff. If not I would have the trusty assistant check that everything was clean (get some electrical contact cleaner RS Components are a good source) plug and unplug the connectors several times using the cleaner. The fact you have no sound could point to the actual controller (assuming you have the other beeps) All parts are available on the well known Auction site at sensible cost Take a look at www.realoem.com it is a BMW parts list put the last 7 digits of your vin number into the search box and it will bring up your model the search for the bits you need. There are small drawing to help plus if buying you will have the correct part numbers and know they will fit. Hope my ramble is a help not confusing Dave

Hi Brian Welcome to the Forum That's a new one 😂 a soft BMW Two things I would do (1) check BMW Vin Decoder (Google) it will bring up your cars build sheet so you will have the original setup (2) check www.realoem.com (it is a BMW online parts list) put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your model so you can check what parts are available. Certainly M sport springs and dampers are normally stiffer. Hope you find what you need Dave

Hi Mark Welcome to the Forum Asking folks to diagnose a noise without hearing it is just about impossible. I also don't follow the Specialists advice, from what I have read the newer engines have 4 Lambda Sensors where earlier engines have 2, but their job is the same to measure the Nitrogen Oxide (Nox). They are mounted before the Catalyser and after the catalyser so that they can measure the difference and signal the DME to adjust fuel/valve timing accordingly. I think you have 2 catalysers so 4 sensors.A diagnostic scan should show any issues. The advice given seems to be inline with Diesel's to force a regeneration of the DPF (Diesel Particulate filter) If the knock is only on cold start? I would first check oil levels as low oil will let oil drain back to the sump which then would give several components the opportunity to rattle/knock on start up, once the engine has run and oil pressure is in the system no rattle/knock. If oil level is OK I would check for something loose in the exhaust that once warm expands and stops the rattle. Hope this helps Dave

Hi Dan I take it there is oil in the Diff ? When you rotate the prop is there play or movement in the Rubber Doughnuts that connect each end they are a known cause of issues as they crack with age and use/abuse 🤣 Plus they are considerably cheaper than a diff. With the drive shafts check each end for loose bolts Dave

Morning Lance Welcome to the Forum A diagnostic scan would help pinpoint where the problem is it could be the door switch or an issue with the FCM. Without testing and checking you can spend a lot of cash changing stuff unnecessarily. I would start with the simple things pop out the switch clean the connectors and pins with a good contact cleaner (not WD40) see if that improves things test the switch operation with a tester/multi meter. Pop the back off the mirrors and check/clean connections. Don't forget the earth connections Hope this helps Dave

Now Stu remember a BMW should be seen as an Educational Device (did you mean the fuse in the right cubby or the 10a fuse under the quadloc on the radio unit) Dave

Morning Dan Is the play in the Diff or drive shafts ? I may be wrong but I thought your car came with 2.56 or 3.15 diff depending on Transmission. The bigger engine models 330i or M3 are 3.15 or 3.08 (check I am an old bloke) I would check the whole drive train for wear slack in all prop-shaft joints and drive shafts. If more acceleration is your goal then a simple ECU tune would push power to about 210hp with a good increase in torque. How ever if your getting there quicker make sure you can stop faster to, so don't forget brakes and suspension. Dave

Hi Simon As said in your earlier post check www.realoem.com put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box it will bring up your Model then search wheels. It will give you all the information you need for 17" 18" 19" 20" wheels Dave

🤣😂🤣 If in doubt chuck it out !!! Strikes again From Memory there is a plastic formed insert that sits below the spare that houses the PDC If the scan is telling you which sensor I would first check the connector at the sensor clean and refit they often get damp and throw a wobbler..If that doesn't cure it change it fairly easy job.

Morning Kenny Use BMW Vin decoder it will give you the build sheet for your Chassis, that way you know what was there at assembly. (1) No special tools that I can think of? ? Apart from a really big bag of patience, I take it you have a good trim removal tool set. The seats in my X5 are held down byT45 Fillister head from memory. My 3/8 Drive ratchet set has T10 to T55 plus I added the same sizes in Torx Sockets. I would take a good look at TIS and Realoem if there are any plastic clips get a few spare before hand, (though as you have a donor car you may be OK. (2) With any luck your donor car has trim parts in the colour you want?? One of the guys on the X5 forum a few years back wrapped his in Carbon effect the pictures looked good.Check www.realoem.com for clues. (3) The main looms and connectors should be there (unless your Modder has been there with his scissors) If your car is like the X5 the main loom runs each side of the car in a channel under the carpet then across to the centre under the seats where it meets with the loom from the Dash. Some carpet may be glued in place but removal should be straight forward. Just dip into the bag of patience (4) Just compare the two loom connections under the centre console (5) You can change heated seat pads (bag of patience again) again realoem should be a help if used with TIS. You can leave plugs unused just tape them to protect them. Me personally if it is there it should work!1 My sons say I have OCD in that respect 🤣 Seems your in a similar mould Kenny you will have a virtually new car soon 😅 Dave

Morning Stu OOerr that is definitely a knackered tyre 🤢 When I had my 4.4 it ran 19" Staggered set from memory 255x50x19R front and 285x45x19R rear Front wheels 19"x9J ET48 Rear wheels 19"x10JxET45 If you have been running the same size tyres all round on staggered rims I am amazed you haven't had transmission wind up or at least signs of it !! Dave PS Just had a thought there was a guy on another Forum a few years back who fitted 10J wheels front and rear he thought it stopped tyre shoulder wear ?? I always thought good alignment and tyre pressure did that Silly Me. Check your front wheel sizes in case he had a fan

Don't post them, our Postie keeps telling they were leaking 🤣🤣

If the engine is stripped already my personal route would be another head assembly. Checked for flatness with a good straightedge and a torch. If OK I would fit new valves and springs and rebuild the engine. Always worth more as a running car than a project

Morning Simon Check www.realoem.com for BMW recommendations 18" 19" 20" personally I would steer clear of bigger sizes as tyre options become restricted It depends I guess on what it fitted now, are the current wheel/tyre combination staggered (wider at the back) or square (same width front and back) You could go to something like 20" 275x40x20R front and 315x35x20R rear or 20" 275x40x20R all round with spacers at the rear Beauty as they say is in the eye of the beholder so one mans "Gucci" is another mans Yuk Just enjoy your Beemer Dave

Whoop Whoop great news Dan well done Matey