Greydog

Check the loom to the glow plugs as well Dan on my sons Toyota pickup we had it apart a couple of times eventually he moved the loom and the fault disappeared. New loom was pretty cheap so he brought one no more Glow Plug issues. Dave

Morning Stephen Welcome to the Forum Those sizes are correct for a 19" staggered wheel set You could use a BMW Vin Checker (Google) and your cars Build sheet will come up you will be able to see what wheel type your car was ordered with. It will show something like Wheels type 448 Then check www.realoem.com (put the last 7 digits of your Vin into the search box) and it will give the part information and sizes If replacing Tyres make sure that all 4 are from the same manufacturer that way you stand a better chance of front/rear rolling radius's matching, if they dont you risk transmission/transfer case damage. Dave

Check the radio's onboard fuse (10a I believe)

Morning Dan Almost there Buddy, one thing I have learnt with diesels (and not just BMW) if the Glow plugs are iffy change them all and the control unit less pain in the long run. The glow plugs don't normally stop them starting though BMW love Comb Type earth points I had some weird electrical issues traced it to an earth point in the boot behind the spare. I brought some electrical contact paste from RS Components along with some contact spray unbolted the earth comb cleaned the mounting point and put it back with a smear of contact paste. The individual earth spade connections I gave a clean with contact cleaner. Dave

Hi Roger Welcome to the Forum You really need a diagnostic session to find the culprit, the list of "could be's" is long and expensive if your swapping bits Crankshaft sensor, Fuel rail pressure sensor, Inhibitor switch on the gear selector (try putting it in N and starting) Pin failure in the ECU As I say a code read should show up where the issue is Hope this helps not hinders Dave

Non Run-Flats 😁

Morning Stu I thought personal settings were a check box setting accessible with 1.4.0 ? Can't remember whether it's in IKE, LCM or ZKE if it's in the LCM settings it will depend on the version of LCM you have some of the early LCM II and LCM III versions didn't support much. Dave

Morning Alz Remember fault codes can often show the "symptom not the cause" one of our sons friends had a persistent O2 sensor fault they were changed twice by his garage. A Saturday morning on our drive and we found 3 perished vacuum hoses once they were replaced no more O2 sensor fault. So back to my original post, a build up of sooty deposits in the manifold and associated pipework can trigger the fault. On our sons Toyota truck it was a messy job needing the manifold to be removed but once done the result was like new. Dave

Morning Steve If the front and rear tyres are as your first post they are definitely wrong, a look at reaoem.com (a BMW parts list) shows wheels for your car as Front 8J x 19" ET37 Rear 9J x 19" ET39 with Tyres being Front 225/35 R19 88Y and Rear 255/30 R19 91Y. Personally I would change them to the correct sizes, you cam fit either runflat or Non-runflat tyres just make sure they are not CHEAP but a well recognised brand. If the tyres are legal and wear is even then the garage have done nothing wrong so you may get little or no help from them but worth a try to see if you can get at least a contribution. Dave

Hi Gary My Summer 20" type 87 wheels are ET45 Front running 275x40x20 102W ET30 Rear running 315x35x20 106W My Winter wheels are ET48 18" running 255x55x18 105H all round. I think you will be fine and the RR wheels will give it an individual look. As the RR L322 and the X5 shared so many parts across the two ranges. Many X5 owners who run square wheel sets fit spacers at the rear to fill the arches I have never bothered when the winters are on. Dave

Morning Gary Welcome to the Forum Don't worry about the typo 😄 E70 and X6 wheels will fit an X5 E53 just need spigot rings obviously it wont work the other way around 😄 Never seen RR wheels on an X5 before check www.realoem.com (it is a BMW online parts list) either search for your model or put your Vin (last 7 digits) in the search box it will bring up your model then check wheel section to check bore and offset against what your looking at. The only thing to take care of is if running a staggered wheel set (wider rear wheels) that you make sure the rolling radius front rear is as specified or transmission wind up and damage is likely. This applies to all AWD cars not just X5's Enjoy Dave

Morning Alz Welcome to the Forum When you changed the EGR did you clean the manifold? and associated pipework, I have done this job a couple of times on one of our sons Toyota pickup the amount of soot is accumulated is amazing. Also have you had the fault codes read? Dave

Morning Steve Are you sure of those tyre sizes ?? Normally I would expect to see 225x35x19 Front and 245x30x19 Rear When you had the cars alignment checked was it (a) 4 wheel alignment and (b) did they check tyre condition and pressures ? Your description seems to indicate tramlining (the car following contours in the road) quite common with runflats particularly when they are worn. Runflats by the nature and construction have very little flex so the tread when new allows flex as it wears as there is less flex the tyres grip makes it want to follow white lines and contours in the road. Get the suspension checked make sure everything is straight and no worn bushes with our potholed roads it takes a battering and if bushes are worn things can get vague in the steering department. Dave

Morning Jaro208 Welcome to the Forum Wow where to start !! Your description certainly seems to point to the Dual Mass fly wheel. The issue is more a pain than difficult just remember all the bits involved are big and heavy so make sure that (a) there is plenty of room under the car (b) it is well supported on proper axel stands. Have a trolley jack ready to support the weight of the box also remember dual mass flywheels are no lightweight. If you are not aware of them here are a couple of web sites that may help (1st) www.realoem.com this is a BMW online parts list, put the last 7 digits of your Vin Number in the search box it will bring up your model. This will help when buying parts that you know will fit (2nd) www.pelicanparts.com This is an American site so the steering wheel is on the wrong side but all the important stuff is in the same place as your car, open the site and select "How Too" then your model type then scroll through to the section you need. All their How Too's have excellent pictures Read as much as you can first make sure you have all the parts/tools you need and don't rush and it will be fine Timing? What are you thinking of changing? Is the timing chain noisy? Most timing chain issues I have experience of means engine out and strip down. Dave

Morning Paul I thought the supplemental light was the third brake light ?? Can't remember where I read that but worth checking. You can change the Angel eye bulbs for LED replacements that brighten them up if it's a concern. Dave

Welcome to the Forum lake-eleven If your in the UK and your BMW is under 3 years old then it should still be covered by the Manufacturers Warranty which normally is 3 years or 60k BMW also offer extended Warranty though at a cost though that should not be needed until the Manufacturer Warranty expires. There are also many after market Warranties available that are less expensive than BMW. But your in the USA then according to BMW Ultimate Care+ is transferable to a subsequent owner, should you sell your vehicle. Extend your coverage: Extend BMW Ultimate Care+ 1, 2, 3, or 4 additional years or 89,000 miles for a total of up to 125,000 miles (3 years for Model year 2016 and older). I have read that Vehicle owners may purchase a two-year Maintenance Program extension from an authorized BMW Center during the first four years after the vehicle's in-service date or 50,000 total miles, whichever comes first. MSRP for the extension ranges from $1,395 to $2,995, depending on the model. Luckily I live in the UK Good Luck enjoy your Beemer Dave

Hi Steve Welcome to the Forum First check the tyres for signs of odd wear also check the tyre pressures. I take it all tyres are the same make and type? Does it happen on all roads or just in certain places? When run flats are nearing end of life they are known to tramline so they could be following the camber? A sticking calliper can also cause those symptoms. After a reasonable run walk around place your hand on the wheel centres if one is hotter than the rest it could be a sticking Calliper. Check all tyre pressures get a digital pressure gauge as forecourt inflators can vary quite a bit. Enjoy your Beemer Dave

A man needs Hobbies Kenny 😂 Unfortunately 99% + of car owners out there the car goes in for service/MOT once every year at best, in between service's unless something starts to rattle or drops off they don't even open the bonnet !! Then at 2nd/ 3rd owner a wally/gorilla like your seller gets their hands on it and "make improvements" The ingenuity of some primates as you are learning has to be experienced to be believed🤣 It's kept David Attenborough employed/amused for years 😁 Dave

Morning Mando Looking really good Exhaust check realoem E46 and E90 M3 which should be a possible swap from the Cat's back if it looks possible then start looking for either second hand or aftermarket Dave

Don't give in Kenny If the part your looking at in realoem has a little camera symbol click it you will see a picture of what it is that may help Take a look at pelicanparts.com how too, it shows the clamps clearly and it may help. Prices vary across Dealers depending on who your dealing with and what the part is clearly some of them like a "padded" margin?? Many fixings and fasteners torx screws etc I buy from a local fixings specialist (1) because it is 1/2 mile away they normally have stuff in stock and are happy to sell 1's and 2's Plastic clips and mouldings I buy from Cotwold BMW. When rebuilding my engine I forgot to order a new Jesus Bolt and Woodruff key my local Dealer was slow and expensive Cotswold 72hr delivery and just a little half the cost quoted by my local dealer. You have to be near the end of "his I Fixed it" list by now? I haven't looked at how the way the clamps work do the rubber inserts have a serrated face so that when the glass is pushed into them they grip, or does the clamp tighten and grip when the screw is done up? If it is the later I would be tempted to try adding some rubber to see if it will fix the problem Dave

Morning Kenny Just had a look at realoem and it does indeed only list 1 clamp used left and right and the same part number?? As realoem is up to date if there was an upgrade it should show? it also only shows 2 fixings a M6 x 20 torx bolt x 8 and a Filister head screw x 4 So I am struggling to see what your Dealers parts guy is even looking at? Did you give him a part number or did he ask for your Vin number? Take a look at pelicanparts.com in their "how too's" 5 series E60 window regulator replacement they have pictures showing the 2 glass clamps do yours still have the rubber inserts ? If the rubber inserts are missing why not try a piece of innertube or similar cut to size. As for price try Cotswold BMW their parts guys are very helpful often offering discounts for "older" models like ours and they will post stuff. Dave

Morning Roy What are you trying to achieve?? Better Ride ? More Grip ? Quieter Ride ? Runflats are well known for delivering a harsh ride, particularly towards the end of their useful life, as well as more road noise. So if you are keeping the same wheels buy the same size tyres but non run flat, just don't buy cheap. Tyre footprint is about the size of a saucer, and that's all there is to accelerate, stop and steer your car. I always stay with recognised brands I am on Yoko's at the moment 275 x 40 x 20 Front 315 x 35 x 20 Rear. My brother inlaw has 535d touring and runs 245 x 40 x 19 Front 275 x 35 x 19 Rear Bridgestone non runflats. If changing wheels to try and improve ride quality by fitting tyres with a taller side wall Brake size will dictate what will fit (18" I believe) so something like 245 x 45 x 18 may give a more forgiving ride Dave

Hi Stewart There are several Transmission specialists who sell it Try Google or Ebay you should be able to get even in deepest darkest France 🤣 Try the old Battery disconnect trick see if that resets the Light Check or it may be that it needs resetting in the ZKE you will need a Diagnostic program or someone with one to do that. Dave

Fun aren't they 🤣 Beer helps unstick super glue 👍 Dave

Morning James Worth getting a copy of ISTA/INPA for yourself it will be a much quicker way of identifying issues (cheaper too as a couple of Diagnostic sessions will be more expensive) After water ingress it could well be an issue with the LCM/FCM as so much communication goes through the unit. A good diagnostic will show it up Dave